schardein

I vaguely remember having this conversation before. All that is transparent to the seller. So I can understand, the buyer pays extra for shipping through the GSP? For what it's worth, I've shipped, guessing 50 items through the GSP and never had a complaint from a buyer. Many of those were "free shipping", which means I covered the cost of shipping, which is factored into my asking price. If there are extra shipping charges, I can't see that as a seller. Perhaps quality of service varies by country.

I ran a XJ steering wheel for years on my CJ. Recently put an original CJ wheel back on and noticed the rim of the wheel sticks out further from the horn button than the XJ wheel does. They are the same diameter though.

Cool!

Here's a crazy idea. Ebay has the global shipping program. If the country is included, then you pay shipping to a hub through USPS and then ebay takes it from there. I don't know exactly how it works, but I have sold many items to people overseas. I pay USPS rates to Erlanger, KY and that's it. Ebay sends me an email when they receive the package and then another when it arrives at the destination. So I've shipped packages all over the world for first class mail rates (if under 16 ounces) from MO to KY through ebay/USPS. There may be another hub, but that is where mine always go. Set up an ebay account, list the item for a dollar plus actual cost of shipping, have the buyer standing by to purchase as soon as you list it. You'll pay ebay and PayPal fees one dollar, but save big on shipping.

Very cool, thanks for posting. Factory rear tow hook?

It's probably made in china, and the ad originated in china. You see examples of it all over amazon and ebay. You can tell whoever wrote the ad has english as a second language. Doesn't necessarily mean it is a bad product though.

Automotive radiators do not have fins inside the tubes.

I have use both SEM spray cans and automotive paint mixed at a store that was sprayed using a touch up gun and also using a hobby airbrush for smaller parts. The results using the SEM cans matches the spray gun with less hassle. Only time I would consider using an actual spray gun would be for larger areas. I repainted the entire inside of my K5 fiberglass top with spray cans. Would have been easier with a spray gun. Door panel sized parts & smaller, I'll use the spray can.

I have used SEM color coat for plastics with great results. Freshened up the interior of my K5 Blazer back in 1998, used the camel color. It was such a perfect match, the only way to tell where the new paint was sprayed, was the lack of scratches in the paint. I used the "sand free" SEM product which is an adhesion promoter and the paint held up extremely well to use. I've also used the Burgundy color to paint S10 Blazer lights for use as replacements for the B pillar lights on our Comanches. It is an excellent match. I've used two different colors of gray on the S10 lights. I have a 91 XJ with gray interior to compare to, and they are less than ideal matches. There are other colors in their lineup, but I'm not sure any of them are an exact match like the camel and burgundy. Cruiser54 recently painted some of the S10 lights gray for his truck and it was a good match, although I don't remember the color/brand of paint. Another option would be to go to a professional paint store and they can custom mix a matching color in a paint meant for use on vinyl/plastics.

I have a non-matching set right now (some do not have that raised ridge around the switch). I can let you know if I get a matching pair in the near future.

Walked away from the mailbox today with a mixture of heartsickness and excitement. Thanks Pete.

PC06 mentioned heated seats. I have generic aftermarket seats in my CJ and added generic seat heaters from ebay. They work great and were easy to install.

I've swapped seats a couple times in my CJ, and an important factor is the thickness of the seat cushion from top to bottom. I retained a factory mount (therefore factory height) so the variation in seat bottom height was the only difference. It was surprising what a large impact a small difference made. Even 1" could make or break a good fit. If using custom seat mounts this could be accounted for.

Right hand drive Cherokees use a high mount alternator on the pass side. I have one of these brackets but haven't test fitted it. No idea if there are differences with the Renix engine that would prevent its use, or if Renix Jeeps were ever available RHD.

Factory, and I believe 1991 only.

Also, the movable vent windows were on my 91 XJ when I got it. They were sealed shut with clear silicone, and still leaked. I replaced them with the fixed window and never looked back. I love the wing windows in my old square body Chevys, but unlike the XJ MJ versions, they did not leak.

I have 97+ mirrors on my XJ and MJ. I had to remove the metal trim around the door and clearance it with a grinder. Tedious work to remove, clearance, and replace. Bolts on, other than that. I also had to do some wiring work to retain the power adjust function in my XJ. In the end, happy with the larger mirrors. Pics of the trimming. Red is the XJ, white is the MJ. Did the XJ first, got a little better with practice. Last is a screen shot of wiring the power adjust function.

Looks great!

USMC 1988-2018

Those look great. My Comanche is white also (and I have the same stock steel rims), I've been wondering if the black areas would be to overpowering. I think not.

There are different part numbers for tilt and non tilt columns. The non tilt delay wiper switches are like $100, at least when I last looked. I found a delay wiper equipped non tilt column in a junkyard, and took it apart and removed the switch. It was a giant pain in the butt, and I never put it in my column because I was afraid I would break something. I wish I had just bought the whole column now. Only reason I didn't, is I would switch to a tilt column if I could find one with the shifter. I found a tilt/auto shifter/delay column in a junkyard, but was on vacation and didn't have the tools to pull it. Putting the switch in my column is a future project. I already have the turn signal stalk with the delay "switch" controls. It works with the non-delay wiper switch.

I've actually used a 1996 throttle body on both my 91 MJ and 91 XJ. The MAP sensor is mounted directly on the throttle body, so you delete one vacuum line and modify the wire harness to be a little bit longer. Cleans up the firewall a bit.

This is not a project I'd be willing to tackle, but wouldn't it be possible to use the 96 engine, but source an OBD1 harness and sensors from a junkyard engine? Basically, any 91-95 4.0 engine? Yes it adds to the cost since those parts would have to be bought, but I would think a lot less headaches staying OBD1 but still saving some money using an engine already on hand. I seem recall the 96 4.0s got some changes to reduce NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) and I think a main stud girdle? But I think you could bolt on all the older sensors, that is if the 96 sensors aren't compatible with the OBD1.

I have a stiff plastic bristle brush for cleaning hands & fingernails. I take the old switch and give it 30 seconds of brushing, dry, as hard as I can press it. I go at it from a couple different angles. Some clean up better than others, but the ones that clean up good, look really good. Left two are the cleanest used switches I've found in about 10 years of searching. The far right is a cleaned up switch. Sorry, no before/after.

That sounds familiar... not sure though. I know you are asking for local Shenandoah area, but you aren't far from Rausch Creek off road park in PA. I've been there several times and had a blast. There are also trails in the George Washington National Forest. When I lived in VA, I was a member of the Northern Virginia Jeepers Association (NOVA Jeepers). They do trips to Rausch Creek and GW National Forest. I met a lot of cool people and learned of a couple local trails through them. NOVA Jeepers has a website/forum that was pretty active when I lived there.