91Pioneer

Woohoo, good news. Long story short I installed the Dorman kit but not in the factory location. It worked fine, I shot a video of the process to help others, I'll post a link back here when the video is edited and uploaded. In the mean time, here's the fix... there is plenty of clearance and the shock is extended maybe 3/8" longer than the factory location. I didn't go for a test drive because I have the brake drums off because I'm going to get them resurfaced tomorrow.

OK semi-good news. I was stressing slightly so I went to a few auto parts stores in town and one of them did have the Dorman 31001 @ http://amzn.to/1n8qU8A It's hard to tell from the package but once I had the bushings off of it, I think it's *exactly* what I need to do the repair without resorting to welding. The tapered thing beside the washer on the top-right in the pic below is fixed, so I need to cut off the existing stud, drill a hole for that threaded part to fit through (again, top right part of the pic). Tighten it down with red thread locker, that's it. So as long as it works OK the day is saved LOL

I stumbled across that Dorman kit afterward. I also found this which looks way better than the dorman kit - I'm going to check with local auto parts stores about these http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/7888-108/10002/-1?parentProductId=756050 I don't have access to a welder at the moment and considering I've never welded I'm not sure I want this to be my first project...?

So I soaked down the bolts on the rear studs 2 or 3 days ago with penetrating fluid. Then soaked 'em again yesterday. Went to change the shocks today, totally forgot to heat the bolts up (DOH). Got 3 of the 4 nuts off, then went for the last one and it was stiff. As soon as it sheared off I was like oh damn forgot to heat 'em first. Now fortunately it's the bottom bolt so I have good access. Just debating the best way to fix this? Does the XJ leaf spring plate thing match up with the MJ? I have a welder but don't have access to it at the moment and do not know how to weld. I know I can't cut it off, and put a new bolt in there since it won't have the strength. The good news is most of the stud is there, you can even see one little thread poking out. Argh I hate rust. I just left it as is, I left the old shock in there now. Luckily I don't need to drive anywhere with the truck this week anyway. I'd hate to swap out the whole lower leaf spring bracket thing because of the same issue, rust, but I'm thinking that is the best course of action. Anyone got a right rear one they could sell me? :)

I know a guy in the parts dept at a Ford dealer and I prefer OEM filters so that's good to know.

Is that for my 91 or what years?

Maybe you have the tank over-filled. You need room for expansion. Take the cap off when it's cold, where is the coolant level at?

Castrol regular 5W30, Mopar filter. No need for anything fancy considering how neglected my truck was when I got it.

5w30 but it did that in summer too. It reads in bar (metric) so you probably don't want the readings LOL I checked the owners manual to make sure the engine oil pressure is OK when warm which it is.

Background: Truck was really neglected before I bought it. Like big time. I installed the full gauge cluster out of a 93/94 XJ and used the sensors right from that vehicle. Here's the deal, when the engine is fully warmed up the gauge is dead on accurate, goes down to 1/4 mark or so at idle in gear, goes up almost pegged if I'm driving fast on the highway against the wind. Driving normal at highway speed puts it between 1/2 and 3/4 ish. The only thing is after a startup while the engine is cold and warming up, the thing will go right off the scale past high, like pegged out. But not necessarily when the engine is revving. Like it could read normal with RPMs up and when you let off it can spike beyond max. The fact that everything is perfect when the engine is warm makes me think the sender is good. I don't want to drop $ to buy a new sender if it's not the problem. But at the same time the truck was driven for 20+ years with no gauge and runs great. My only other suspicion is that there is junk / gunk bits of thick oil crap inside the engine. I plan on changing the oil again soon 'cause it's super dark. I have been thinking of doing an engine flush prior to draining the oil. I haven't done a flush before but I figure it won't hurt anything here. I have a couple of quarts of ATF so I'm debating of using that for a week or just using a 10 minute flush. Thoughts?

I am NOT in the market for a new Jeep pickup, I know it will be nothing like an MJ. I just hope they don't call it a Comanche.

ooops. This is the time when the Lada shines, when we experience crazy Russian like cold weather LOL!

Considering my coolant system was neglected for a couple of decades, I put in green stuff and mixed it to be good down to about -50C. I won't have my truck by the time it's due for it's next change anyway.

Its too bad you chopped up a clean rust free short box... :(

Pic

Fixmyrust.com eBay etc.

Looks good, I should copy that LOL. Are you going to put the flares back on and do you think they'll rub if you do? I'll never convert my truck to 4WD so I should put in some ZJ coils & lowering blocks :-) What do the XJ shackles do to lower it? Just a bit shorter than MJ ones or what? Definitely let us know how you fix the geometry & clearance as I seriously might do this in the future to my truck. I've got bigger things to tackle first like the rust on the body and the flinstone floor boards. Wanna replace my floor boards if I drive my truck to Calgary? LOL.

Why not just go back a little older and get a horse and buggy?

I like that donk car but I like a wide variety of vehicles.

Happy Friday!

Took this pic at my local Home Hardware. Fluid Film works too but notice the price difference between the two products. Not to mention the can size (value). KL-73 is da bomb.

I use a timer basically identical to this heavy duty outdoor one, I recommend something like this: http://amzn.to/1PhPmj5

Block heaters only need to be plugged in for two hours prior to leaving (startup). Operating it all night is wasteful.

The person in the blue car is looking at you like WTF LOL

Try using another browser. Cleaned it up using EvapoRust, painted and lubed it.