91Pioneer

C'mon guys.... CHROME swoop decals... :thumbsup:

I recently replaced the rad in my 91 4.0. The trans cooler is builtin. This is the one I bought, it was a smokin' good price on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7S062/

What injectors did you put in? First off check vacuum lines like the one going to the MAP thingy. Verify all electrical connections you touched and double check all vacuum lines.

Right now I have to use the handle when I close it, plus push on each latch on the upper corners of the tailgate. It's kind of embarrassing to be honest.

"Very rough"... it's in better shape than my truck!

I let the hood drop from at least 6 inches up, closes perfectly every time.

Subscribe to me if you want to be notified of all my future uploads, I've got a few Comanche videos up already.

Here's the video I did on "restoring" the tailgate handle/mechanism. Let me know your thoughts.

What's the easiest way to bend the rods? Did you remove them to do that? There's not much room to work going in the tailgate handle hole... Yeah even just a single bend would be enough I would think, I just want to take up the slack. I'm wondering (hoping?) if I can maybe remove the 3 bolts and drop the handle down, not actually disconnect it, and bend it that way...

So I just "restored" my tailgate handle/mechanism. It's much smoother and looks better. I'll post a video on that soon. Anywho, when I use the handle to release the tailgate, it doesn't actually pull the catches on either side until the very last tiny bit of the motion on the handle. So, you pull the handle, keep pulling up, keep pulling.... then at the very last bit the tailgate releases. At first I thought I could just take off one of the latches to adjust it but that's not an option. So now I'm thinking my only real option is to shorten the rods in order to have the tailgate pull open sooner. Since shortening it could be hard, I was actually thinking of putting two opposite bends in the rod, think of making it slightly S shaped. That should be easier and more adjustable. What do you guys think of my plan? In the long run it's not a big deal but I feel like the whole workings is a bit loose and needs adjustment. Also, another related question, when I close the tailgate, I need to operate the handle to make the catches latch. Normally when you close a tailgate you don't need to touch the handle. Is that the way it's supposed to be?

Two-tone makes it look older (dated even more). No decals makes it too plain. Keep it as is.

Do you still have this truck? Long time, no updates ;)

Well if water got in there, my first suspect would be the vent. Check your vent and hose and make sure water hasn't been getting in that way. If that's the problem, just refill it and you're probably fine...

I'm not a body guy but I'd say that could probably be fixed.

Eh, just put on a new knob. When my knob wouldn't stay on anymore and wasn't all intact, I searched the junkyard to just get another shaft from a GM column. It was not worth the effort. Long story short, buy this, drill out the center a little bit and jam 'er on. Works pretty well... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006302JU/

Uploaded a couple hours ago... enjoy.

Not really what you want but I always go to http://www.obd-codes.com/ when I have trouble codes on my newer vehicles.

Time for another update. I've only done two notable things. I cleaned the seat using carpet/uphostery cleaner (video below) and I swapped to full gauges, here's how to cut out the tachometer to fit the column shift indicator in the factory spot: http://comancheclub.com/topic/47867-how-to-cut-out-for-prndl-indicator-for-column-shift-full-gauges/

OK so here’s how I did a pretty good job of cutting a slot in the full gauge cluster package tachometer so my column shift indicator fits like stock. There are other instructions here on swapping the clusters and such, so I will just focus on cutting the tachometer face plate and securing the indicator to the face. 1. Lay the old gas gauge face onto the tachometer or measure where you want to cut on the tach face. I used a fine Sharpie marker to outline the area to be cut (kind of visible here): 2. Cut the lines you made using a sharp utility knife. I secured the gauge to a block of 2x4 wood so I could screw down a scrap of metal I had to help cut the line straight. In this photo you can see I have started cutting the top line (had a mistake on the right, the blade slipped): Don’t worry if you slip like that, we’ll cover it up later (it will be less noticeable). 3. Repeat that process for all 4 cuts, then turn the gauge over and you should see faint lines sticking through. Cut along the backside on the same 4 lines you have marked. The point is to not go super hard with the cutting, and take multiple passes. By the time you’re done you should have the knife blade popping through some spots. At that point you can probably push the metal cutout piece a bit to help force it out: 5. Once you’ve got that metal piece pushed out, use a file to smooth the rough edges, then use a Sharpie (black) permanent marker over the light areas to make them black and hide any scratches: 6. Now that you have the cutout, you need to make the PRNDL indicator fit in there. The holes on the indicator do not line up with the holes on the gauge. So, use a drill bit to enlarge the holes on the gauge face. Then, use a smaller drill bit to make new holes on the bottom corners of the plastic pieces by the holes on the PRNDL indicator itself. Use screws, washers, nuts, whatever you have around to secure the PRNDL indicator with space between it and the gauge face: It’s hard to see the screws I used because they’re black, but you can see they are in the bottom right area of the plastic squares on the PRNDL thingy as you are looking at it from the back. 7. And here is the finished product. Overall I think it turned out very well, definitely better than I expected. The gauge is installed slightly crooked in the plastic housing, I need to fix that yet. Thanks to MJCARENA for the tip on using the utility knife to cut the gauge face. I hope this helps other MJ owners with the column shift. If you have any questions just let me know. I like that this required minimal modifications and didn’t cost a thing.

Bump! Two questions: 1) Is that the factory Colorado Red paint color? 2) What's the status on this build?

I took pics so I'll document what I did in a new thread. It all bolted up nicely and I didn't have to do anything to the fuel circuit board. The indicator is a little crooked but overall I'm impressed.

I found another thread on the forum which gave me the tip to do what 87Warrior did (was it your thread I can't remember). Long story short it turned out pretty darn good. Just need to adjust the pointer though, it's on drugs. johnj92131, I broke the needle off my big gas gauge, I don't think it can be fixed.

So I started the swap today from idiot lights to a gauge cluster. 91 MJ with column shift. Long story short the newer XJ gauges won't work. See the circuit board behind the gas gauge... that's a problem. I can't fit the column shift indicator in there... I'm pretty sure the gauges came out of a 92-96 XJ, I pulled them myself, I never thought abut trying to get 91 specific gauges... So what do I do now? I thought I'd be able to use the old plastic housing but as you can tell by looking at it, that's not an option. I want to retain the stock shift indicator stuff in it's original location, if I can't do that I'll just live without all the gauges. And since I'll be putting my old gauges back together, how do I line up the gas gauge needle? It kinda popped off...

How hard is it to change the front springs? Mine is a 2WD and I discovered one of my springs is broken. Now wondering if I should lower it 2" also to give it a little meaner look. I have no intention of switching to 4WD.

Sweet truck! The HDR photos kind of take away from the truck tho. Reminds me of a sweeter version of my truck LOL