xjrev10

I love the cold and snow. It's why I live where I live! I've had a few different chances to leave but nothing else feels right. I'm not a fan of Florida. Too many people. My folks winter there.

I find Mtn dew the worst for road trips. Gotta whizz within 45 min of drinkin it! I stick to a few Monsters or Full throttles and plain ol water. 27 hours - Weeki Wachee FL to Virginia MN in a '14 JK. Non stop. Same trip the year before in my '12 cummins. 9 hours recently from Norway IA to Virginia. EZ trip. Nice driving across the country in a brand new rig with no worries. This spring tho.... 22 hours one way to Moab with the MJ in tow with my 200k 03 CTD.. Should be exciting.

On stock trucks with NO lift? Why not?

IRO is the way I go. I've bought and installed at least a half dozen of these in the last few years... Awesome product. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=10215&Category_Code=XSP

So... 92 or 93?

I've used my own Mac's straps with u-haul trailers. Gotta get a little creative. I also hauled a XJ back to MN from WY and removed the front tires (31s) and installed stock OE size from the junkyard to be able to use u haul straps.

Yes they sell their auto transports. That's it tho. No enclosed trailers.. The straps might fit over 31/10.50 and might not. I've seen it both ways!

Ok. Forgot to mention I did put all new bulbs in also.

Are sockets universal for the most part? That was the next step I had planned actually. But.. The parts store guys I deal with are not the best resource for older jeep stuff at all.

I took it apart yes. It was butt spliced very shoddy originally. I cleaned everything up good and replaced the butt splices with soldered joints. I did not check for 12 volts at the pins.. I still don't own a meter. Shame on me I know.

Like the title says. This truck has had this issue since I bought it. Now doing the finishing touches on the resto-mod and want it working. I have swapped out the fuse box completely with new connections. Both flashers on the fuse box are new. Connection at tailight harness to truck wiring is good. Ground behind DS tailght is fresh. No trailer lights. I have a turn signal and brake light on passenger side. Only running light on drivers side. What's next to check?

Those are extremely $#!&ty pics for someone to forward to a potential buyer. $700 tops. Just for that reason.

Same here.. 97 trans and clutch for a 97. But this bonehead put the wrong flywheel in and the jeep wouldn't start... Hard knocks. Blessing in disguise in a few ways tho.

I would be surprised if most companies wouldn't sell just the rear leaves. But if you go that path, I would highly recommend Rubicon Express shocks, coils, and track bar. Even if you decided to go with someone else for the control arms. Rubicon Express mono tubes are still rebadged Bilsteins right? I know for a fact they where before Rubicon went out of business in the recession.

That's a lot of cash to drop just to change the output shafts... 23 spline 231s can be had for $100.

Just as the front of the Jeep version of the AW4 has the AMC bolt pattern that only fits the AMC block the rear has the NP round pattern that does not match the Yoder pattern. If you want to go pass. drop in an auto XJ/MJ you can get a cheap $50 spacer that allows you to bolt the darn good Dana 300 t-case to the AW4. I did this to put an AW4 into a CJ as they are pass. drop from the factory as was the D60 I swapped in. Otherwise doing the $100 junkyard shaft upgrade ( or starting with the later HP30 front) makes the HP D30 as good as a LP D44 per the magazine ratings. Then throw on a $100 truss.....For someone considering a D60 front swap getting the usually considerably cheaper gm/dodge pass side version and doing the swap to the much stronger iron D300 can offer a considerable money savings over the very pricey Ford driver's drop HP D60. I waited until I found a good deal and wound up with $600 in the pass. drop D60, spacer, and D300 for the CJ. Even though I saved $200 on the usual price of the axle paying the usual $600 price still would make it less than 1/2 the cost of what a driver's drop D60 goes for around here. Link to said spacer?

Nice bumper! Just got lodging reservations for EJS this spring. I can't wait.

Pure beef. Half the price of most other kits.. http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Brakes-and-Steering/Heavy-Duty-Steering-Kit-with-Stabilizer.aspx?t_c=65&t_s=430&t_pt=6195&t_pn=CROHDSTRGCR2

Completed the fuse box swap... Thanks Ben. Technically the box itself is fine, it's just plastic. The connectors, I totally different story. I ended up cutting and soldering on different connectors for a few of them. (Connectors that came with the fuse box I got from Ben) Exactly what I didn't want to do. Anybody doing this swap, be sure to get a fistful of new connectors. Should note that soldering is not required with new parts. I had used parts so I soldered the wires together instead of tearing the connectors off and trying to recycle them. You need a few 4 ways, a few 3 ways, a few 2 ways and of course single connectors. It's fairly easy, just stay organized and do one at a time, marking the hole in on the new one immediately after removing the wire from the old box. Make sure the orientation is correct also with the 2, 3, and 4 way connectors.. I used a small screwdriver out of a eyeglass repair kit. WARNING: The screwdriver works fantastic for nice connectors. It will destroy not so nice ones. Hence why I needed to replace more then I thought.. Here is a link again for the correct connectors. For the 3 way and 2 way, you could get a 4-way and just cut it down. http://www.delcity.net/store/Fuse-Block-Terminals/p_177 I took some pictures but photobucket isn't cooperating right now... Also I learned there is really no need to replace the whole box if you have a issue with just one connector. Buy a new one and install.. But it is pretty nice to be able to transfer your newly rebuilt wires into a new clean box. I was able it sit on a spare tire/wheel on the floor beside the jeep and work in the floorboard. No need to do a hand stand under the dash. You may need to cut the loom a little bit. Took me a few hours with only one beer break. My soldering tool is also a POS which added more time..

Original owner and truck modded to suit present needs. There's not many guys like that out there! Congrads!

Don't spend that money on that. Stupid. I know I have at least one newer one somewhere that would be a helleva lot cheaper then that!

You are the man!!!!! Thanks for this info Good luck!

No luck.

Ok. Easier to replace fuse panel or dash harness? Heard through the grapevine there was a tutorial on CC somewheres...for replacing the fuse block.

Brake fluid will yes. Not sure about synthetic... But that's irrelevant in this case. No brake lights, no turn signals, no hazards. Running lights work. I couldn't get it to contact at all. Tried a few different fuzes. Once I pulled it apart, the wire just fell out.