Automan2164

I ended up sitting down and taking my phone apart. Nothing looked too out of place, but I cleaned everything up as well as some contacts under the cover... Voila! It works. That let me dive into it. Started the daunting task of the timing belt today before a road block and some rain made me go inside. Started with re-pinning the engine, and tossing on the cam/IP lock. Then the impact came out, and zipped off the crank bolt. Not too much holding it on besides the roll pins and the bolt... The timing gear does all the heavy lifting. Note the timing marks. With that exposed, I could count all my teeth between timing marks. 3 times. Then noted. 52 between crank and cam, 19 between cam and IP, and 77 between IP and crank. Once I counted all the teeth between the belt and added them up, I ended with 148. Then I counted all the teeth on the new belt, 148. In the process of that, I noticed the new belt had some weird lines on it in very odd places... Then I counted between a set... 19 teeth. No $#!&. The exact same indexing marks between the timing marks on the crank, IP, and cam. All counted out to be the exact same as what I counted out on the original belt. Super sweet. Once that was noted... Only one thing left to do... Pull the tensioner. And... No going back. All seemed to be going pretty swimmingly, until I went to take out the idler. Seems to be pressed into the IP bracket, with no sign of any sort of bolt/retainer/keeper other than fit. New one. I played with getting in there to get behind it for awhile, but I just really can't pry against much back there. There are only a few ribs to pry against, and I don't want to go to town on them. I don't have a puller that would pull from the back without pushing on the center, which is not what I want. I think I might have something at work that might help, but I am unsure if it's too big or not. We have a plated bearing/pulley separator that brings two plates into each other. I might be able to get that in and behind the idler, and coax it out... See what happens tomorrow. For now, the rain brought me in, and it's time to make some easter dinner. Feel free to post up any ideas on the idler though. Rob :dunno:

Did end up picking up a little something something today after all. I took a trip to JoAnn's fabrics, and found some headliner/visor material. They had some really close colors in a few styles of fabric, but I ended up settling on a Duck Canvas. The color is almost a spot on match. I brought a headrest along for comparison, and ended up with "Classic Burgundy" color. Interior for reference: Swatch from their site: It's pretty on par in person. It was half off, so I picked it up for under $6 a yard. I am also pretty pumped about the fact that it's canvas, and might be a bit tougher on tears/damage, while making it a breeze to actually put some elbow grease to if I need to clean it. Angela's brother sort of volunteered some camera action, so I might dive into the timing belt after all tomorrow. Rob

May be a dumb question but does anyone know where the last MJ was shipped to? Chrysler kept horrible records... So that info really doesn't exist. What's even worse, is that the only records they have were in a basement storage area and were victim of a flood. Jeep will even admit to this. All the records of such things were destroyed... And to the OP... How dare you post up about buying a '92 and not immediately post the build date, VIN, and name of your first born. Rob

Might have to wait until next weekend for any updates. My phone just took a crap, and that's what I use to take all the pictures and catalog my progress. They said it's going to be 4 to 5 days, so that puts my next full day at next Saturday... I don't want to go through all of this without being able to chronicle it for the masses. Rob :(

Going to have to fight me for one first. I check every day, and I have some cash laying around for the cause... It shall be an epic battle to the death. I'm on to you... Rob :fs2:

Updates, updates, who's got the updates. Little bit more done today. Got back in there, pulled the alternator, the vacuum pump, as well as hashed out the "pinning" of the crank. First thing on the menu was pulling out the alternator. It's on the lower left of the engine, tucked under the injection pump. Only a pivot bolt and a tensioner bolt and out it came, took a reference pic for the wires. While it was out, did a little comparo with the new one... I'd say we are playing the same game. Once the alternator was out, I had better access at the vacuum pump. Only two bolts, and it comes right off. It's driven off an accessory shaft, which can be seen in the timing belt pics. It looks like an idler with teeth. It's actually connected to a shaft, the shaft turns the vacuum pump like a distributor, and the vacuum pump turns the oil pump kind of like a distributor would... Block side of it. Once that was out of the way... I knew I was in the same area as the crank pin, so I figured what the hell... In order to do the timing belt, you must "pin" the engine at TDC number one. Basically, there is a notch cut into one of the counterweights on the crank, and there is a hole in the block that you are supposed to drop an alignment pin down into to lock it in place while the belt is changed. Here is a pic from the manual for visual reference. What lurks behind this ominous plug? I think we know. I am surprised how much the timing relies on a somewhat poorly fitting belt cover. TDC #1 ballpark is when the timing marks line up with the arrows on the cover. So close I can smell it. Look at that amazing notch cleavage... Little tweak and I had it lined up. Ding! You are actually supposed to have a special pin that fits the bore of the hole exactly and hits the crank notch center. Not wanting to speak yet another language, I figured I might improvise... Fits like a glove, and with almost no movement out of the crank. It drops right in with the most satisfying engagement. Good feeling. The beginning of many, many, many reference marks. That's where I left off... I have to pull the crank pulley yet, but that's really the only thing besides the tensioner in the way of taking the belt off. I want a full day when I pull that stinking belt off, so I think the next update will be this weekend when I get a full day to stab away. Stay tuned. Rob :cheers:

I was there when you had that Stanley tool episode. That was messed up. I have to say though... I picked up a Stanley ratchet a couple years ago in a pinch, and it's one of my favorite ratchets. 3/8", mid length, smooth feel, really solid with nice action. Surprised for sure. Rob

Help a guy out to where and how I can get a hold of this "Parts warehouse". Rob :dunno:

Thanks for the input Phil. I hope everything goes smoothly for it, going to be a pain if something messes up. Gates did change the way they do the tensioner though, so I'll follow what they say. They actually have a whole different tensioner/pulley bracket, and it doesn't have an ear for the tensioner spring to push on. Here is the updated info from Gates: http://www.gates.com/europe/file_displa ... 045040.pdf As for the remote filter lines, I don't want to jinx myself here, but I was looking at them today while I had the radiator out, and they don't look that bad at all. I also have to keep in mind that I won't have a lot of the corrosion issues you might have had with a truck that lived in the rust belt for 25 years. This one hasn't even seen a winter on the road. See what happens when I take mine apart, I am sure I'll have lots of pictures. Anyway, today I finally got my alternator in, and visually at least, it looks all sorts of right. I'll toss it in once I get the timing belt back on, and all the other stuff wrapped up in that area. Speaking of the bane of my existence, I took a few steps closer to getting the thing taken care of today. I had to do some other stuff first, but with the time I had left, I decided to pull the radiator, fan, and make the condenser movable so I could get at the belt. Start with draining all the old coolant. Grille came off to get to the condenser/radiator attachment bolts. Reference shot. Business end of the intercooler, little easier to see without the grille on. So much hate in this picture... So much hate. Luckily the flex lines of the condenser are long enough for me to do this. I really don't want to take the fittings loose to find out there is still some charge in it, or introduce air/moisture into it. It will stay as so for now. Motor shock. Tensioner, applying almost no tension... So much room for it to take up slack. If I knew how old the belt was, I might be inclined to just make the tensioner take up the extra and put it back on the road... Already this far though. Fan and shroud for $#!&s and giggles. And that's where it ends for today. Looked a bit like rain coming in, so I called it a night. I got the issues with my phone uploading pics to Facebook fixed, so now I can be back to uploading gobs at a time. There are just so many interesting things to look at. Couldn't imagine how weird it is for you guys who don't see this everyday... It's just "There" for me. Rob

Post before: Just to make sure you know you aren't as innocent as you think. That be a smartass in my book. But... It seems like you both have a grasp on it. Rob

Mod presence. I'm watching. Play nice. Rob

Looks almost like an old school house. Rob

I am going to always recommend that you take it to a qualified repair place... From another post of mine. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=30129&p=302368&hilit=epa#p302368 Rob

Don't even need a tool at all. Drop the gate, pull it up by the pivot in the limiting straps so they bend up, this should allow you to take those off. With the gate at about 45 degrees, pull at the 45 degree angle on the right side, and it should just pop out. Then shift the whole thing to the right to get it off the other side. Rob

I miss your truck and I didn't even own it... I've made that mistake once upon a time too... Never again, never again. There are some addictions you just can't shake. Rob

MJ=XJ Club=Forum Comanche=Cherokee April=@#$! Fools=$@*(& Joke=%$#! Since the day is drawing to an end, here is the key. I did the normal stuff, as well as changing April Fools Joke into some censored words so that I could keep the people who would post the key to figuring it out from spilling the beans. I received some PM's from members concerned we were hacked, noticed some members had re-edited their posts multiple times... But it seems like everyone got it figured out eventually. Happy April Fools Day. Until next year. Rob :cheers:

You guys should check out this article, and toss in some votes for the diesel... :brows: http://hooniverse.com/2012/04/01/hooniv ... with-poll/ I don't have anything to gain, but I would like to see the Comanche on top of the list... 8) Rob

This month we have a member that has one of the bigger undertakings MJ-wise running on the side. Enjoy. ----SIRSAM's 1988 JEEP COMANCHE---- MODEL AND YEAR Comanche Longbed 1988 MY ENGINE & PERFORMANCE: Factory new 2002MY VM Motori 2.5L common rail turbo diesel (R425) ~140hp/250ft lb TQ. DRIVETRAIN: 2.5 CRD turbo diesel engine 2001 NV3550 5 speed transmission engine 2007 Wrangler JK Dana 44 front axle (4.10 gearing and electronic locker) 2004 KJ NV/NP242 transfercase 96+ Ford Exploder 8.8 (4.10 LSD) Rear Axle. COOLING: Stock 4cyl radiator planned - if insufficient cooling then upgrading to something else. ELECTRICAL & IGNITION: Frankenstein combination of 2001 XJ body wiring, 2002 KJ diesel EFI, and 2002 KJ BCM. Drive by wire APPS from 97-01 XJ diesel. 2002+ TJ PCI bus Gauge cluster(97-01 XJ cluster is CCD bus not compatible with PCI data bus) STEERING: Stock steering box. Fraken WJ/JK everything else. SUSPENSION: 2" front coils, adjustable upper/lower control arms. Stock rear leafs + AAL. INTERIOR: 97+ XJ dash/interior conversation. Agate only. 2001 XJ limited heated leather seats. BRAKES: Stock JK front, stock Ford rear disk. LIGHTING: Stock rear lights, Jeep 2500 front headlights, Jeep 2500 projector beam foglights. WHEELS/TIRES: 16" Silverstar OEM wheels. 245/75/16 Treadwright "aka all terrrain" retreads, Load range E MISCELLANEOUS: Jeep 2500 front end conversion 2002-2004 Jeep liberty KJ diesel engine conversion 97+ interior conversion Camper shell Best MJ story Not many MJ stories to share, bought an MJ for my project, drove it very little, battery slide into the alternator and the cooling fins ate a hole in it. Acid everywhere, decided it was time to strip it down for the project. Been in pieces ever since. What owner loves best about CC The dedication MJ owners have to our special Jeeps. PICS! When I first got it: Engine and wiring mess: 2500 lights arrived: Diesel bell housing, NV3550, NP242 bolted up: Some rust: Engine bay stripped/cleaned: First of many test fits of motor: Motor finally mounted: First testfit of 2500 header panel/lights/fenders. Fender are crap and can't use be used, header panel with modified US fenders is the way to go. First testfit of 97+ dash....promising! Second-millionth fitting of dash. steering column bracket in place, upper and pivot dash mounts in place, tranny tunnel dash mount still needs to be done. Firewall 97+ HVAC box mod done: MJ brahma top installed: What's next: -Finish interior conversion metal work(97+ seat bracket, firewall steering column mods, ebrake mount, and 97+ door latch mods). -Por-15 interior, quiet-car soundproof interior. Repaint cab red with white roof. New windshield, install doors. -Finish transmission mount. -Engine bay wiring mountup/harness stripdown and integration. -Testfire engine. -?????????????? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- James, you are a staple of the Comanche Club. Your Jeep flipping prowess is something to be envied. The ability to take something that was wrecked, deemed a total loss, written off, and put it back on the road takes some skill. Especially with that rolled CRD KJ... Deskinning the whole roof, patching all of the affected panels... Amazing. Your diesel MJ project is one I would love to try to accomplish one day. All the niceties of a late model with the oil burning power of Rudolph Diesel. How about all those photos? Making all us flat landers jealous of your backyard... You have some of the greatest photos, with incredible views. You are always willing to share your knowledge or input with a member in need. This is why you are a great member to honor for MJOTM. Congratulations on your MJOTM. Rob :cheers:

1) Bought my house when I was 20 2) Graduated Salutatorian from my Technical College 3) Head of the Union at work 4) Won the Practical Achievement award when I graduated Fire Fighter training 5) Am extremely dangerous around a fire or fireworks

Good to see you guys, it was nice to meet your co-worker. I was the envy of the house when I got home and Chris found out there was another train guy there he could have met. I forgot to bring his book too... He picked up a train book (Story of Wisconsin Southern?) and you are in one of the pages in the back. He wanted to have you sign it. Rob

I would imagine that if it didn't come with the light, you would have to put a fuse in... I can't recall off the top of my head if it shares circuits with something else or not. Have an owners manual? Rob

The 4x4 emblem also give this away. The only first gen Elim's that were 4x4's were '90's. Rob

Girlfriend had them when she was trying to quit... She used them for maybe a couple days, she said they made her feel weird. She also grossly overpaid for them on an impulse buy at a state fair. She did end up quitting though, on the heels of some dental work that required her to quit for a week. Going on 1.5 years now. Rob

I messaged Wade, he's balls deep in school and can't make it. Nancy, well, I think he's moved on from little ol' us. Rob