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Everything posted by Automan2164
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From an admin standpoint, it does look very user friendly in the bones of the system. Looks like you need to update some stuff though... :D Do you have a site that is similarly setup in forum style/layout as Comanche Club? Rob
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Registered. Rob
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He said he had swapped in a 350, and it's been nothing but problems. The alternator wire had came loose or rubbed on something and killed it. He was thinking about putting a 4.0L in and ridding himself of the headache. Rob
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Was out and about today to pick up some tools and some new jeans and had an opportunity to street promote Comanche Club. We were on our way to the store, and while turning onto the highway, I caught a black libby on black steelies nose up to a blue truck with it's hood up on the other side of a frontage road. I didn't think much about it, until my girlfriend shouted out about a Comanche. I looked back up, and the blue truck was in fact an MJ. I am a little ashamed of myself for missing it, but proud that she caught it. I had to drive quite a ways to get onto the frontage road, but I eventually pulled up behind and started spreading the gospel. Angela snapped a pic of me working the magic. Hope he finds his way here. Anyone else done any street promoting lately? Rob :cheers:
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Pete would have to set you up. I have keys, but it's his baby. Rob
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If we can run a mirror test I would be open to trying it out. Rob
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As I understand it, the big hurdle of converting to the latest version is that we are so far behind... It makes it inherently difficult to upgrade when you have to skip a bunch of versions... Pete could fill in the blanks here. Rob
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Guess I have to ask, Alexia, do you have any experience with phpbb? Could you help us bridge the gap in our current stuff? Rob
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I'm at work, so I can't see the listing, but did he change the price from $3500? Beautiful XJ anyway... Sirsam, thanks for those, I have been watching them like a hawk since they went up. I have Jeep Renault as one of my nationwide CL searches. Rob
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The NY times is as good as it gets for last build date: http://www.nytimes.com/1992/06/06/busin ... anche.html That's the best I can ever get on last-of dates. Rob
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MJ on a J10 frame/running gear. Lots and lots of custom fiberglass. Pic someone caught of it out at a show: I work with the son in law of the guy who made it. I've seen it in person, as the guy I work with drove it/cared for it, drove it a few times. It's neat to say the least. All the fiberglass work is custom from hand made molds. It is still in the same family, but it was sold to a nephew, whom last I had heard, hasn't been treating it like it deserves... I think it's been hit/offroaded... So there is some damage. Rob
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85 Horsepower seems to putter along these things just fine... Rob
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random question; do you have a toaster that ACTUALLY toasts?
Automan2164 replied to jpnjim's topic in The Pub
This hit me just after posting. Jim, I have some stuff to mail to Neohic, so I'll put your stuff along with his. PM me your addy when you get a chance, and I'll drop it in a flat rate box. I am pretty sure it still works. Rob -
random question; do you have a toaster that ACTUALLY toasts?
Automan2164 replied to jpnjim's topic in The Pub
I might have some porn for you guys. I am doing a whole house cleanse, and I found something on a shelf in the basement I have no use for... Older than me by a longshot. IIRC, the girlfriends dad gave it to us... In box. The box has since been lost. I never plugged it in, but her dad had used it. I have no use for it... But I am trying to think of a creative way to put it up for grabs. Rated for 8.3 amps. Rob -
WorldsFastestComanche Pete might have some info on them. IIRC, he has the crank from one of the trophy trucks to use in the Land Speed Record Truck. They destroked the 4.0L to 3.0L's so they could get that high wound power out of them... Rob
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Coolant suggestions - For the oddball.
Automan2164 replied to Automan2164's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Guess I will put my cards down on the table now. The radiator guy recommended a HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) because of the low silicates and phosphates with special additives for Aluminum protection. The silicates in his world are like internal sandblasters for soft metals. He basically said that the silicates can pick up and carry a charge, and basically use electrolysis to erode the radiators in his experience. What it basically boils down to, is either the Gold G-05 Ford Coolant, or the newer Chrysler stuff, which is the same thing, but with a different color dye (Orange). While doing some research, I did find this pretty good article that showed up in Motor Magazine, up on the Gates website. They go through the transformation of the types of coolant, and the problems with each. It's a good read if you have some time to kill and a beer. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... 4huKVoPnuw Rob :cheers: -
Hey guys. It's getting to that point to where I need to refill the Diesel with some coolant. The coolant will be needed to keep the 2.1L OHC Turbocharged Renault in check. The original AMC specifications call for an AMC Green coolant, with Aluminum safe characteristics... We've come a long way since then. Being that it is an aluminum block, aluminum head, cast iron sleeves, and all sorts of soft metals, do any of you who know enough about coolant to make a suggestion? I stopped by our local radiator repair guy to ask his opinion... But I wanted to gather a bunch of insight if I could, just to see what the masses hover around. So I am all ears for help. Rob
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Proud papa. Rob :cheers:
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Diesel Fuel Only - Factory Diesel Comanche
Automan2164 replied to Automan2164's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Good news gentlemen, good news. :D Made up a game plan at work today to get that idler off... I knew I'd be bringing home that bearing separator, but the boss tossed in some pearls of advice. All that turned into this. First I wrangled the bearing separator in the small space I had to work with and started tightening it down slowly. It was going along well, hoping to have it bite in behind the pulley, rather than into it. Based on the room I had behind it, the latter seemed like the more likely one. Lo and behold, as I was cranking down, it started to dig in behind... Huge weight off my shoulders. Not only that, but as it was digging in, it was actually forcing the assembly out. Once I tightened it down until the curvature touched the pulley, out came the bosses plan. I was trying to figure out how to pull at the separator without putting awkward pressure on one side. He suggested making a piece of flat stock that I could put across it, tap the center for the slide hammer, and this was the result. It was already most of the way out when I got the separator in place, but the slide hammer helped it out the final few mm's. Just barely enough room. Bam! Old and new. I was a bit worried about getting the new one back in as far as straight/proper, so I started slow. Once I put the new idler up to the hole, I knew it was all downhill. It sat in so straight to begin with. A few light taps of the hammer, and it drove itself right in. Next up, the old tensioning device. With the new style tensioner, there is no tab for this thing to push on any longer. The new one just relies on attention every now and then, but so did the old one. Before, you would loosen the tensioner, the spring would take up the slack, then you would re-tighten it. Not anymore. Being that there isn't any tab for that to rest on, it had to go, no matter how stuck in it was. I didn't want it to come loose someday, and make friends with the spinning belt. It was really locked up in there. It's housed by the water pump, so I was trying to be delicate while trying to beat the friggen thing out. I managed to chip a part of the aluminum while trying to use a chisel to grab the cylinder and coax it out. Eventually, the chisel caught, and it started moving. Vice grips were the finishing move. New tensioner and idler, happy to be in their new home. Time for the belt to go back on. It became immediately evident how much tighter and more firm the new belt was to wrestle. Took me a few minutes, but eventually, I beat it into submission. Managed to get all the marks lined up. Then out came the green tooth counting marker... All is in place correctly and legit. For reference. I then took out the crank pin, the cam/IP lock, and started turning it, feeling for any unusual contact. Everything seemed ok, so I plugged back off the pin hole, and moved on. It's good to have that belt back in and in place. I had a celebratory beer, and moved on to the vacuum pump. I picked up a few o-rings, but all seemed to be a bit too big to fit back into the block. I'll have to stop by the auto parts store with the pump again, and see if I can scare up some rings that are the right size. Belt is in though! Did I say that!? Belt is in! All down hill from here! Rob :cheers: -
Diesel Fuel Only - Factory Diesel Comanche
Automan2164 replied to Automan2164's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
I did rap on the old one a few times to see if it would move, and it did move in, so I know it's doable by hand. If it hadn't moved at all, I'd be worried. Rob -
Diesel Fuel Only - Factory Diesel Comanche
Automan2164 replied to Automan2164's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Video of how the existing pulley spins... _lCegp8X6OM Rob -
Diesel Fuel Only - Factory Diesel Comanche
Automan2164 replied to Automan2164's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
That's what I am talking about with the 2 blades... We have a similar Snap-on one at work. I'll bring it home along with me tomorrow and see what happens. I did discuss this with Pat, who has an engine out of the truck, and he confirmed my problem. He's got the same game plan I am on... I will try to delicately get it off, if I can't, I'll just continue on with the old one. Rob
