Automan2164

As soon as I get them, you guys will see them. Just sent the reply to him today telling him where to send them. Rob :cheers:

I didn't want to go back and grab the original thread, because I think this needs to be on it's own. I just received this in my email... Rob :D

Moved into tech for you. Everybody gets one. hdr6SG_t1TU Rob ;)

This is all I could think about. This is what I was thinking your video was going to be: pDy41hvdq4s Rob

As we say in the fire service industry, Risk nothing to save (gain) nothing, Risk all to save (gain) all. Do the benefits outweigh the risk? Rob

If the diesel is running and trustworthy enough by August, count me in. Rob

I have an original. I'll take a pic later on when I get home from work. Rob

Well, on the third, there is a swap meet car show for AMC stuff at the campground by Jefferson... I'm going to that, and I'm going to use that as an excuse to try and get the Diesel going. Rob

I don't think I would have the time to get all the info in Brent. I still need to compile info about all the trucks, how many, details, yadda yadda. I was pretty much assuming that this was dead once my last post didn't get a response. Rob :dunno:

I know that the best way to get some action on a problem is to give it the full on spot light here. I've been having some trouble with the tachometer and the temp gauge on the diesel. I tossed out some info on the thread, but I want to reach out here to touch some people who might not be following along. I would like to consider myself pretty electrical friendly, and am pretty good at mapping out paths and routes in my head. I can make the circuits in my head. Not being able to figure this out isn't from a lack of trying. What's happening. The tach has been on the high side ever since I bought the truck. It wasn't charging at the time, so I assumed that it was related to the tach, where it gets it's signal. This was also confirmed by opsled, who has the other diesel MJ. He said that whenever his alternator started going out, one of the first identifiers would be that the tach would start acting goofy. Easy enough, or so I thought. I changed out the alternator, but to the same effect. It charges now, but the tach is still doing the same thing it did before. I would estimate that it is around 2-3X faster than what it should be, or as best as I can guess by ear. A solid idle is about 2300 on the gauge. It will rev all the way past the end point (6K) if I snap the throttle. Also, the temp guage. It never, never moves. I've replaced the sensor to no avail. The connector is in good shape on the unit, and all seems well. What I've done so far. First, I wanted to see what I could figure out with the tach. I know that it goes way overboard, so I wanted to see if it might have been getting some excess voltage from somewhere. I took the signal wire off of the alternator, and fired it up. Stone dead tach. Not a move at all. Next I wanted to make sure that the alternator had a good ground, so I checked it with the DVOM, it was good. Just to be sure, I also put a jumper from the B- post the the neg battery cable. Fired it up, no change. Still high. The wires seem good, and in good condition, so I moved my operations into the cab. I checked the pin on the cluster coming from the alternator. It started out at about 6V, and climbed up to 7 with some throttle. Grounds on the connector all tested good. I tested from the respective points at the back of the tach to their pins at the connector, also seemed good. The temp sensor is aggravating also. I've tested the wire out to the sensor, from the connector to the sensor, there is almost no resistance. The connection is good. I've also pinned out the back of the gauge to the respective pins on the connector, all seem good. I can get the gauge to move when touch straight ground to the sensing pin at the back of the gauge. I just touch it though, not hold it there. I want to say that the tach and the temp problem are related in some sick way. The gauges are close together, and I am betting that they share something that's causing this issue. There has to be something that I am overlooking. This is why I am coming to you guys. I took some pics of the pages in the wiring diagram that are of interest, and also I have one of the back of the cluster to show the routes of the pins/contacts. I am open to any suggestions, and will try any test, even if I have already done it. Rob

Ever think of changing the coil? Rob

You don't even want to know. Rob

Your head would explode if you came over to my place or Pete's... But it's good to see another member on their way. Rob :cheers:

Did some more tinkering with it today. I stopped by the local JY, and picked up a new accelerator pedal assembly since I mangled the original one getting the carpet out. $10 later, and I had myself one of those fancy working gas pedals. Got home, put it in, and let the tinkering begin. It's great to be able to start it and keep it going without being somewhat of a contortionist, reaching for the throttle cable. I started by finding out where that new groan was coming from. Being that the only major change was the timing belt, I tried letting a little slack off of it and seeing what would happen. I loosened the tensioner enough for it to relax and bit and fired it up. No more noise. Still runs - Strike that, Idles - like a bag of a$$holes, but that's another issue. It seems to be smoother throughout with the belt relaxed a bit. With that knocked out, I changed the fuel filter since I bought one, and it had been sitting on the passenger side floor for awhile. Seems to run, just run, not idle, better yet. I am pretty determined that the goofy tachometer and the stationary temp gauge have to be some piddly detail that I keep overlooking. For those who haven't been with us since the beginning, the temp gauge is stone dead, and the tach has to be doubled + of actual value. With the extent of the mechanical gremlins not requiring the tach sorted, it's time to figure that out. I need a correct, hell at least ball park, RPM identifier besides my ears. I broke out the manuals, and the DVOM. I started with the simple stuff. First I took the signal wire off the alternator to see if it would act different. Sure enough, tach didn't move. At least I know I have some sort of signal coming through. Next check. Continuity from the ground to the neg post. Good, not much for ohms, but I decided to put the signal wire back on, and add an additional jumper from the ground to the neg post. Still way high on the tach. I ran myself a jumper to the a pillar straight to neg so I could next test the pins on the cluster to a clean ground. This is where I finally remembered I had my phone and snapped a couple pics for you guys. Schematics for those who want to follow along and can read these: I tested all the pins that should have voltage, all tested good. All the pins that should have ground tested good. The tach pin started at about 5 volts and increased with RPM. The temp sensor pin crept up in resistance as the engine cooled. I then turned my attention to the gauges themselves, checking that each component had a good connection to the connector terminal from where it originates in the printed board. All seemed good there... But by this point it was getting pretty dark, and I had to call it a night. Anyone know why the tach would read so high? I was thinking poor ground... Excessive voltage is a thought, but I just don't know. With the old alternator, and the new alternator, all is the same. Except for the not charging that is. Rob

I'm not so sure on the 2.5L, but I know on the 4.0L, the flywheel is a convex surface, and if you machine it flat, it may produce problems/issues. Rob

! :eek: ! Rob

One with gauges instead of all those dummy lights. Plug and play, replace a couple sensors on the engine. Rob

The rear speakers require a bracket that only comes with the radio package. Hit up the classifieds and I bet you will find a pair. Rob

How about a factory full cluster? Rob

Clean them up real well, rub everything down with some 3M adhesive remover, and use 3M molding tape. Rob

:thumbsup:

Where else but the world's biggest marketplace for useless crap: eBay. Rob.

Recently stumbled onto some more MJ junk I don't need but am drawn to like a moth to a flame. I am proud to welcome to the collection, the original dealer display sheets from 1989: They are pretty neat, and huge as all get out. A bit smaller than a poster. The only thing that sucks is that one set of MJ's is on the back of the other. The other sheet has Grand Wagoneer info on the back. I recently caught a glimpse of these in their displays at that AMC guys place we went to after the swap meet... Now I just have to find one of these to display my new info... Anyone have one laying around? Rob :dunno:

Grinding in some kitty litter with my shoes or rolling over it with the floor jack always pulls a ton of the majority of the oil out of the driveway. I would think some general degreaser and some scrubbing with a stiff brush would do wonders too. Rob

I was without cable for 2 weeks, and I thought the world was going to end. It has a lot to do with how I was raised though. Mom worked a few jobs to keep her and I afloat when I was younger, and the TV was the babysitter a lot. I'm addicted to the TV... Even if it's just on the background to break the silence. Half the time I am just on the couch surfing the net, but I have to have the TV on or I feel weird. I always call the girlfriend weird when I come home and she's sitting on the couch on her laptop without the TV on... Too quiet. Rob :nuts: