Automan2164

Tres amigos? Brent, Will, and I? Maybe a Kitch sighting? Rob

C'mon man, I've been glued to the computer since Wednesday morning waiting for the pics. Yeah, yeah... Been a little... Err... Upset with things lately. On top of that, my phone has been throwing a fit with my "Diesel Comanche 2" folder on FB, so now they will only upload to a different album. Where did I leave off? Oh yeah, the window. It was already not in all that well, made for short work getting it out... He made mention of the different kinds of window sealant used, and that whomever installed it last did it incorrectly, putting the new sealant on top of the old. Makes for a poor bond. Minimal rust in the frame, but he still hit it with the rust converter and a sealer they use on all the surfaces. It all went pretty good, except for the part where he didn't bring enough of those little black plastic clips for the window trim. He had a handful of them, and most on the diesel were dry and cracked. I offered to go to NAPA, no luck, and Advance Auto, no luck. One of those times when having MJ's laying around is nice. I ended up cannibalizing the Farmer. Luckily, the clips weren't too buried in the old glue, and I could slide a good amount of them out for the diesel. Wasn't too happy about that, but whatever. It's in, and it looks good. Once he was done with that, I worked like a mad man putting in the interior, and did it in record speed. I started by re-wrapping the cut wire loom over on the drivers side, and replacing all the little zip ties that hold the wiring into the dash. The old ones are always super brittle, so I cut off all the old ties, and put new ones in place. I also cleaned out the cluster while it was out, and found one of my factory AMC Jeep AM/FM radios hanging around to put in. Before you knew it, the interior was in. It's a great feeling getting this out of the way, save a few details. Also had a chance to put on a decal I had laying around... I have had some troubles with the alternator too... I called O'Reilly's on the 10th day, the day it should have been in at the latest. Turns out, it's back ordered... Yep, you bet I asked why they told me they had one waiting on the shelf at the manufacturers, and then I had to wait 10 days for them to tell me it was back ordered. Especially after I had paid for it to be ordered. He told me he had searched all around, NAPA, Carquest, AutoZone... And no one else had one for them to buy and sell to me at the agreed price. I could have told them that. They did however, tell me they had found a used one on the LKQ parts supply chain, used, $65 with a year unlimited miles warranty. Told them I would be in to check it out and work out the cash. Got there, and looked at the specs... Listed on the LKQ website as a 1986-91, fishy, and that it was a 78 amp... Super fishy. Instant pass for me. They came in 60/70 amps, but not 78... More time down the drain. I took the refund, and headed to Carquest with my tail between my legs. They actually found one with me standing at the counter, so I dropped payment and have it on the way. Should have just trusted my gut and went with them to begin with. After all, I owe all my business to them really, for tracking down the timing belts, and comping them on top of that. Speaking of stuff from them, I did have a chance to try out the DOHC cam lock tool. It works, but the teeth in the cogs aren't spaced the same as the tool is laid out, so it doesn't sit right in the teeth like I would want it too. With a bit of playing around, I can get it to lock in one tooth per side, and it will hold them tight though... better than nothing I guess. And that's where I am going to leave off for now. I had really been cranking away at it to try to drive it to the LKQ trip for us IL/WI guys, but the alternator, along with the sheer amount of ends to tie up slapped me with a dose of reality. I took yesterday off, as well as tonight because of the weather. Still to do: Timing belt Pull Radiator, crank pulley, to get better access. Pull alternator while everything is out, Replace. Pull vacuum pump while alternator is out, reseal mating surface to the block and stop oil leak there. Pull remote filter assembly, disassemble and replace o-rings to stop leak there. Drain/Fill Trans. Drain/Fill Transfer Case. Drain/Fill axles. Cut off huge exhaust tip in favor of simple turn down, or stock tailpipe. Replace Door/window seals/trim. Recover headliner. And I think that's about all I can think of at the moment... Rob :roll:

Alrighty, I am hearing that I also will just head there rather than wait for anyone here. See you guys there on Saturday. Rob

Oh god. Can I just take a picture of the front of my house and say everything inside? Rob

Guess I should ask this first, who is coming to my house, and who is going straight to LKQ? Seems like most are just going straight there... Is that everyone? Rob

Going to toss something at you guys. I was hoping to have the diesel done by Saturday, but it's pretty evident that I won't have it ready, or to the point I would like it at least. I still have the alternator to put in, which isn't in yet, and the timing belt. Among other things, like fixing the vacuum pump oil leak and the remote oil filter mount leak... Anywho... I wanted to ask if you guys wanted hear it at all. It's apart right now, but it will start up and chatter. No accessory belts, or anything on it, so I'm not going to move it, but it will run. If I dive any further into it right now, it won't be running for Sat... So does anyone want me to leave it together? Rob

Windshield is in, as well as most of the interior. All that's left to put in is the seats and the center console. Everything is looking good... Dash went back in great, looks better. Dash lights are not coming on, could be as simple as the headlight switch. Pics tomorrow, time for bed. Rob

I was surprised about when someone told me about the sheer power of some hungry goats, but believe it or not, they land clean like a son of a... Rob

Yeah... Plugs for the holes that they created... I honestly wouldn't mind them on something else, but knowing they are on this, and that it's 16 more holes to address... It irks me. Something I also forgot to add to the last post, is that while I had the door/interior ripped apart, a key fell out of something and I found it in the grass. It's a completely unused door cylinder key, punch out still in it. It feels so solid and crisp in the cylinder compared to the well worn key I have... The copies will definitely get made from this one. Windshield appointment has been confirmed for tomorrow, going to be $180 installed. I had to take a half day, so weather permitting, I hope to make some more progress. I did get some parts today though. DOHC gear holder came in, I hope it works for the cam/injection pump. I also got my thermostatic capsule in the mail from New Hampshire. Once the glass goes in tomorrow... Time for the interior. Rob :cheers:

Just ordered the windshield. Guy is coming out tomorrow afternoon. Once that is in, the interior is ready to go back in. Rob

More progress this weekend. Not as much as I would have liked, but progress none the less. Started by addressing the floor. Once I got the carpet out I found out it was a little rustier than I had hoped. The drivers side floor also needed some steel and TLC. I started by hitting all the rust with a flap disc and a grinder. Then I decided I should probably go ahead and pull the dash... Found some stuff along the way. Someone had obviously been in there before. The steering column had a support that wasn't bolted on, and the main loom coming up the drivers side had been sliced open... Some pics of the back of the cluster... The turbo boost gauge is actually a live gauge... Happy to see that the radio wiring wasn't all hacked up... Someone used the adapters. Be nice when I get around to tracking down a factory Jeep/AMC tape deck. Rolled forward. Out. Once everything was out, I wiped down the floor, hit it with some brake clean, and applied a generous coat of rust converter / primer on the entire floor. Then I let it sit overnight with the windows open, and let it get a good cure. Looking at it in the daylight, you could see the drivers floor was showing it's true colors. After some picking and prodding... Then I introduced it to the grinder... Made some cardboard templates. Welding in the steel. Once everything was down and in, I hit it with some nasty two part epoxy sealer I borrowed from work... Nasty nasty stuff. No more rusting here. Figured while I am waiting on the DOHC holding tool for the belt, and some other engine parts, might as well address the torn hinges. Don't all you guys have the rare 90 degree opening door? I tossed a little weld at the hinges. Unfortunately, the hinges were also pretty bent. To my dismay, I couldn't get enough muscle on the hinge to bend it without pushing it into the sheet metal. I went to pull out my oxy/act set, but I was out of gas. The bent hinges will have to wait until another time. I just don't want to crank on them that hard. I just put the door on for now. Still pops open, and will fly all the way to 90 degrees, but at least it's not tearing itself away from the truck anymore. The carpet got some attention too. Loaded it on the trailer, scrubbed it down with carpet cleaner, and took it to the car wash. Once it was all washed up, the only thing I could think of to dry it off was to hang it from the deck... Really classing up the neighborhood. I did order up the sprocket holding tool for the cam/injection pump, that should be in tomorrow afternoon. I just checked the UPS tracking number, and my cold start capsule should also be in tomorrow. I'm also going to put a call into the glass guy, as I can't think of a better time to get the windshield replaced than when I have the dash out. Hopefully it will save be a bit of coin if they save a bit of time. Rob

Don't know if this will help at all, but a few of the classes I go to every once and awhile have pico scopes. They are automotive o-scopes, but the may work for you, check them out. http://www.picotech.com/ Rob

http://blogs.fourwheeler.com/6798834/ed ... index.html Do they really have to dangle an FC in front of us? It was one thing to tease us with the NuKizer, but really? An FC? Rob

It's not building boost when I just rev the throttle, it's not quick enough/under load. It does build boost under load going down the road though, and you actually can hear it spool. It will build about 8 PSI. The only reason I don't want to pull the engine now is I want to drive it this summer. If I pull the engine, I am going to want to paint the engine bay/frame, and I don't need another Farmer on my hands at the moment. Rob

Couldn't have said it better myself, but I did emphasize where necessary. Rob

The pub is for general discussion, and we welcome good debates. When someone is just dropping links to things, and waiting for opinions as a form of trolling, or rousing, that's where we draw the line. Some members are getting tired of the "Soapbox" stand that the pub has been recently turning into. I would have to agree. If you want to discuss a topic, please do. What we don't want is someone tossing in a link to such and such controversy and trolling. "Drive-by's" If you will. Know what I mean Verne? Rob

Thanks! I think this is as deep as I have gone step by step on the site. Usually I just tear through on my own, but this is a little more special. I enjoy sharing it with you guys. Also, I want to have a lot of the key points of these things on a searchable basis on the net. Try to help out the next poor sucker who picks one up... Haha. Today I got some more done, starting with gutting the rest of the non-essential to running interior... Seats, center console, back trim, back carpet, and kick plates out. Don't even ask how this seat base bolt came undone without lots and lots of swearing... Call it luck. Ready to pull the carpet out... Drum roll please. Wah-wah-wah. Water city... I had an idea of where it might be coming from, to be discussed in a bit. Rust-rust-rust. :ack: What did I think might be a big water intrusion problem? Now that I have the headliner out, you can really see the issues... Didn't notice this before. Like the light was in the wrong place, then got moved. Sun beaten and plain old beat headliner: Soaked, soaked, soaked carpet... Still in good shape, but needs a power washing and some cleaner. Plastics: I also wanted to get a better look at the timing belt situation, and see what I am in for. Decided to take off the cover. I really just wanted to see what it looked like under the cover, once I saw the accessory belts were going to be a problem, I broke out the Gerber tool: Enter the bane of my existence: Timing mark, took me forever to find the stinking things. According to the FSM, the cam and the injection pump should have 19 teeth on the belt between marks, which this one still does. I was hoping to see if I could get away without pulling the crank pulley when I do the belt, but the block has a casting that guards the belt, and it's in the way. The belt definitely feels/looks old and tired... Video: 74wYZPx7odo lI20OtGUc5E While I was in the engine, and knew it wasn't going to be running for a bit, I addressed the leaky dipstick tube the only way I could think of... RTV baby. Out. Dirty hole: Clean hole!: Little RTV. Got it in, and smeared it around the best I could with my fingertip... Pretty tough spot to reach. 'Tis all for today. Rob :cheers:

Big thanks to Hornbrod today, with his help I tracked down a "Cold Start Capsule" sitting on a shelf at a dealer in New England. Ordered it up, should be here later this week, or early next. Rob :cheers:

Thanks Ben! I am used to it by now... Every time I pop the hood, it's just "there". I used to get the shakes, they've went away... Now if I could only it it's shakes to go away. Today was another good day. It's super motivating to have 80 degree days in March this far North. Makes for excellent wrenching. Started out by taking out some stuff I wanted to change. Out with the dual battery system, it's cables, and the two batteries. Removed all that, hooked back up the factory hot lead to the starter, and tossed in the new battery. Luckily, I found the factory battery hold down still on the passenger floor, and got real lucky when I was pulling out the stuff from the toolbox when I found the nut for the hold down. Score. I don't have a use for all the wiring I took out, but I'll find one. Pretty heavy gauge cable, some ends, and the multi-battery switch... Might be cool to use on some dual deep cycles on a Camper trailer... Hmm... 8) I took out the speaker box / amp while I was at it, might find a home in the Farmer when I get it done. Fits behind the passenger seat nicely. Passenger seat came out today too. I picked up a length of hose to hook up to the booster from the pump, got that all in place. They were out of vacuum line, so I just had to use 3/8" fuel line for the time being. It was cheap enough, and I just wanted to see what would shake out anyway. I didn't drive it around, but so far, the brakes now feel like they are getting the help they need. Also, I was hoping to see some changes in anything else vacuum controlled, but none yet. Did fire it up today! It seems to run better and better with every change. I was on the hunt for leaks, and wanted to see if anything I was doing is helping at all. I found a few leaks, looks like my big, big dripper seems to be the dipstick tube: Was channeled by the ribs on the block, down onto the motor mount, and down the bottom: After about 20 minutes: Probably end up pulling the tube out, cleaning the surfaces, and reinstalling it with some RTV around the base. No biggie (I hope). Also noticed a little fresh oil around the vacuum pump: I had kind of expected this, but the remote oil filter / cooler might be doing a little something too, down the inner fender, onto the engine mount, and down the frame: I am still a little weirded out by my rear main, and will be keeping an eye on it. I noticed some dark drips collecting on the bolt heads, but I wiped them off to see if they come back. I did let it get hot enough that the hoses were hot to the touch, and checked the temperature sensor to see if it's working properly or not. I didn't get a reading out of the gauge. I ohmed out the sensor, and the numbers don't jive with the book. Figure I might as well replace it anyway... $15 part. The system was able to build a little pressure, and everything seemed good. I can't wait to get that alternator though and hopefully have the tach act normal again. It's leveled out from spinning circles after taking out the dual battery setup, but it's still off. I did check the voltage of the running article today, turns out it is putting out a bit of power, but just over 13... Needs to be a bit more than that. Knowing the RPM would open a ton of doors for me, because it would tell me if they shaking is because it's idling low. I am only assuming so for now. The only thing I haven't been able to find is the "Cold Start Capsule" replacement, as the current one doesn't move at all. It's supposed to bump the cold idle/timing, but it never moves. It's wide open to the normal hot range... More checking to do there. And for you faithful followers, I took a video of how quick/good it starts up today, and some of me playing with the throttle. Dce6maYuIfs Rob

LKQ is the place to get them if you can make it. Dirt cheap prices, and you know the price of what you want before you get there. That, and the cars are all on stands on compacted gravel, and they even give you a yard cart/wheelbarrow for tools/parts. Hands down best yard I've been to. Rob

Success! I searched around a bit, and found a couple places that the part number on the alternator crossed to, most were the el cheapo's, but I got lucky at O'Reilly's. Ran a search by vehicle, knew I was on the right path when it asked 60/70 amps... Then bam! I am staring at a rebuilt Paris Rhone alternator. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0330 Sounds good to me. I knew there might be some weirdness because the didn't show it in stock, so I gave them a call. I pretty much expected to get the "Can no longer get this part" or something of the like. Sure enough, they didn't have any available, nor any in other stores. That, and he had to email the manufacturer to even ask about whether or not they still made them. He got my info and told me he'd call me back in 24-48 hours. Hung up the phone and got a call 5 minutes later. The company already responded. They had them and would ship out as soon as ordered! Dropping by there tomorrow to order it up since they need payment before custom orders. I have to pay a $10 freight charge, but hey, I'll be back to the goofy Paris Rhone it originally came with. Can't beat that. Should have it in 7-10 days. Rob

Welp, I think I can be pretty satisfied with the results from the full blown coolant pressure test today, but you be the judge. I started around 4:40, and applied 15 lbs of pressure to the system: About an hour later: What appears to be a little movement, so I let it go another half hour: I'm thinking I am good. The needle had some movement to it whenever it was tapped, or moved, and that would explain why the 3rd reading is higher than the second... So that's where I am with that. 15 lbs rating for 1.5 hours, and little fluctuation, or no more than I would contribute to the gauge anyway. Pretty satisfied with that. I also picked up some hose for the vacuum pump to booster, as well as snapped a reference pic for me to look up and cross the part numbers on the alternator: Trucking along. Rob

Yet another "Could have had a V8" moment... Dawned on me to check to see what the part number is on the 4.0L Renix pressure reservoir cap. One page back from the Diesel's coolant system parts explosion, I found the 4.0L breakdown. Part number is the same. Now that I have a more common vehicle to search on, a quick hit on CarQuest tells me it's a 15 lb pressure cap. Going to order a new one along with the correct radiator cap tomorrow. Rob

QSUAXQOoXuY Boss was looking into one of these for his house. Rob

Just spent some time looking for the radiator cap. Rock Auto showed a part number for it, but not a pressure reading. Rock Auto says it's a Stant 10203... I searched for the PSI on that cap, found nothing. The Stant website did however, give me a CarQuest number. Punched that in work's CarQuest parts counter we have set up, number is good. Clicked the number for more detail... It had a pic, and everything suddenly became much, much clearer. http://weblink.carquest.com/acl/?mfgNam ... mber=33001 Bingo. It's a closed system using an open radiator, and this is the way they cheat around it... Looks like my thinking the Stant latch cap that is on it doesn't belong was right. Time to pick up the right cap. CarQuest has one in stock. According to the Stant website, the only other vehicles this crosses to is 1936-9 Buick Roadmasters, and 1936-8 Cadillacs. Nothing else... Haha. I still wonder what the reservoir cap is rated for though. Sometimes the weirdness of this thing is entertaining. Rob :D