cracker

Funny this should come up. My windshield guy just left 5 minutes ago :rotf: We chose to use rubber stripping and we did not have to trim those little nubs off. The windshield guy brought the rubber strip and threw it in with the install. Glass and all was $90 here in SoCal. Just for advice, have who ever installs it put a metric $%&* ton of primer on there so the glass adhesive sticks well to the chasis. If not, the natural flex of the MJ may cause the window glue to come off the chassis and allow for leaks. (Don't ask me how I know).

Cool beans. If you had mentioned you planned on getting some nice axle shafts originally the D44 is the better way to go. I think there is only 1 (maybe 2) companies that make aftermarket shafts for the 8.8. If you are planning on doing shafts and a detroit I would suggest upgrading to a 33 spline set up with alloys. Making an upgrade like this will pretty much guarantee a trouble free rear end. Something like this: http://www.quadratec.com/products/16120_5102.htm Good luck.

X1000 I finally stopped scorching power steering fluid when I went to a Hayden 24,000BTU tranny cooler and synthetic power steering fluid. You may also want to wire your auxillary fan with an on/off switch to assist in the cooling at slower speeds.

No, it very much is NOT a non-issue. The rear wheels/tires on an MJ run very close to the leaf springs and inner fender with the stock axle. Running 31x10.50s on factory rims, every time I did a trail ride I had fresh rubber marks on the inner fender when I got home. A difference of even 3/8" on each side (and I think it's really more than that) is enough to make it necessary to run non-OEM rims on an Exploder axle. Not "desirable" -- "necessary." :roll: Stock tires + stock wheels + explorer 8.8 = adequacy. Sure, add a larger tire, flex it out off road and you'll get rubbing. FWIW, Flex a stock explorer out and it rubs too (mine '96 did). :nuts: Right axle for the vehicle? :shake: Going price on Naxja has been $350 for the last 5 years. (SoCal)

:roll: The difference in width is something like 3/8" on each side which is a non issue. The D44 and the 8.8 in the yard 'should' be the same price (it is here in SoCal). $200 is ok though since yards chard (out here) $120. 1/2 off day is always a hassel too with higher entry fees and more people with the same idea you have ;) Also, Finding 8.8s at the yard with 4.10s can be quite a bit more challenging than the 3.73.

Danm Bo. Sad day for sure.

Poor quality. Do a search and you will see millions of posts with people bitching about Rusty's I have about 7.5" of lift on 37s FWIW.

That really is a bad design. That poor rod end does not have a chance on surviving. Might I suggest you pick up a spare?

Head 0331 is the problem child.

I am glad to hear you say that. I tell everyone that and they look at me like I am insane. Detroits rock :cheers:

I fill up every 200 miles when the guage gets low. I have 5.13 gears and 37s.

I forgot that Richmond has been pretty nice gears (along with Precision) too. Richmond cut the gears in my TrueHi9 and so far so good :thumbsup:

:huh???: That was 600 kilometers, not miles. 600 Kilometers is like 370 miles or so.

I have liked Precision over the years. Actually, I really have never had a gear issue with ayones gears including Yukon, Genuine Gear, Dana, Precision, etc. The most important thing is that you get some one really good to set them up. Good luck.

That sucks...

I just went through this. I had the glass guy (pro) come out and pulled the glass. He left then I went to town with a wire brush and cleaned up the whole area. Then I coated it with rustoleum. Called the guy and a few hours later he came back and installed brand new glass. He charged me $90 for the new glass and the install. I would call a pro and have it done right :wavey:

Strange. They should have looked something like this: In the old days of Alloy USA, they could have come as threaded studs where it actually threaded into the axle flange or pressed in style (as pictured above). I am not certain, but I read somewhere that these new kits are made somewhere offshore. Maybe grade 8 type bolts actually work in Chinese or Indian vehicles :rotf: The new replacement studs were actually purchased from a local parts store by the machine shop after the technician laughed at what I had brought to him, and I did not actually see the studs until after they were pressed in the axle (hence my bad description). Not to worry. The Alluy USA shafts have been made off shore for a long time. ;)

Strange. They should have looked something like this: In the old days of Alloy USA, they could have come as threaded studs where it actually threaded into the axle flange or pressed in style (as pictured above).

Picture?

Not true. Alloy USA (Ultra Axle, LLC) was purchased by Omix-Ada and is still running to this day. Alloy USA is associated with Precision Gear. Ten Factory is associated with Motive Gear. Motive Gear and Precision Gear are/never were to the best of my knowledge ever associated. Now you are correct saying that the "former employee's" Ron Stobaugh, Jeff Belknap and Derrin Roe of Alloy USA did move to Ten Factory/Motive once they sold off all their assets to Omix-Ada. But Alloy USA is still selling/producing shafts to this day via Omix. You are pretty much right except for the It should read 'Alloy USA, LLC' instead of 'Ultra Axle, LLC' but that is just nitpicking :D Ultra Axle, LLC was an axle company under Omix-Ada that wanted to start up anew. They saw an opportunity available with the Alloy name and seized on it.

Alloy USA as a company is no more. The guys moved onto TEN Factory.

When ever you have the time :cheers: Tomorrow afternoon? :D Since I put rear discs on, I picked up a prop valve from a 4-wheel disc ZJ. This should work okay, shouldn't it? Yeah. That'll go right in there. Tomorrow afternoon would be fine. I am working hard on my rig but I can guide you through stuff and help out. Give me a text when you want to come up and I'll confirm the time.

I stand corrected then. It was my understanding that the 'prop valve' under the hood was a slave to the true prop valve in the rear. :dunno:

Don't discount the UCAs or the ball joints :( Good luck.

When ever you have the time :cheers: