Rockfrog

Knock the shift handle with your knee when it rattles, it'll do one of two things ... 1. Stop rattling, 2. Rattle louder, It is the linkage, the chain doesn't even move at idle. Now, the linkage, it rattles like a someb*tch ... I actually had mine rattle so bad one I was about to drop and rebuild me front drive shaft. I thought the DCV was about to explode. The linkage and the troublesome bushing used tend to wear out and rattle. Either replace the bushings on the linkage or replace the whole mess with a boostwerks direct linkage kit (or make your own, they just have a kit already made for a decent price).

Oil pressure sending unit ... Pull wire, it's just a 1/4" spade with a fancy rubber cover. Use a 27mm or 1 1/16" (some are 1 1/8" or even 1" depending on who made it). And turn it out. Replace with new one. Motor mount ... They all look like that, the top part is just a bracket brace, the mount is essentially two parts. The rubber mount molded to the lower part of the bracket, and the upper cover/brace. I just grabbed a set of Stinky Fab motor mounts to swap mine out though, I like that they are rebuildable with a common bushing.

And the difference in mounts, tailhousings, and drain plug locations.

The gear cut only affects the annulus and sun gears of the low range planetary assembly. The splined input gears are still the same pattern without change. As are the rest of the internals of 231 and 242's ... You just have a few part year changes that need to match (as in needle bearing/no needle bearing shaft, synchro/no synchro assembly), but again nothing that affects the input gear. Just disassemble the planetary to get at the input gear.

Use the input gear from a ZJ 247/249 ... They will swap in to any 2 series t-case (ie - 231, 242) and are the longest input gear used, specific to the ZJ, and another inch longer than the standard longer XJ, MJ, YJ, TJ length input gear (actually considered medium length). Any worn/blown up 93-98 ZJ case will get you the input gear you want.

The Tach (rpm guage) was a trim level option. Was not standard in either the auto or the 5spd. The entire assembly bolted to the manifold is the EGR, the transducer is mounted beside that a little closer to the firewall. The EGR valve is a simple vacuum operated diaphragm valve. Mounts with two bolts and has a big saucer looking thing on it (that's the diaphragm part). If you are removing the system, a simple block off plate can be placed on the manifold (use the gasket as a template). The transducer is right next to it ... Not really sure how to test it ... Never kept mine long enough to bother testing it. I do know the engine system really only operates at WOT, and will kill the engine at idle if it opens.

You will also need the input bearing retainer for the external style throw out bearing.

That's almost depressing ...

Totally gapped, that hole in the end of the shaft ... Is it threaded? You have been hack and tapped, or in the middle of it. Definitely a later model external slip tail housing. Get a seal for the years I suggested. Not sure where to find the rear yoke though, there are several places to get them though. Gonna also need a new rear shaft for that that matches the yoke you get.

That's not the stock 92 tailhousing ... You sure the tag says NP231J? That is either a later model (97+) tailhousing or someone already started an SYE conversion. But looks like a late model external slip yoke rear housing to me. Get a seal for a 97+ XJ/TJ it should fit in place fine. You will also need the output slip yoke from the same or a hack and tap yoke.

Yeah the 5spd needs less gearing help to do the same job. Less parasitic loss with a manual trans.

Well, if 3/16" brake line fits snuggly ...

A 5spd and 3.55's is a completely different beast than an AW4 and 3.55's ...

you can also simply use two length of 5/8" hose, they will fit over the 3/4" fitting ends easily enough (both my XJ and my MJ are done this way). A little sunlight (or whatever your favourite dishsoap is) helps slip the 5/8" over the 3/4" ends. I used a 92 XJ overflow bottle and PDC bracket "massaged" to hold the Renix relays and such, had to drill 2 holes but it fit right in. mounting the IGN module was tricky afterwards though ... in that pic it was zapstrapped to the bottle. Later I mounted it to the firewall where the original pressure bottle was. Just as further examples of how things can be arranged. I also added a later model heater hose nipple when I swapped water pumps which made things easier as well. My first overflow bottle was actually a Fast Orange bottle, I converted with some old fuel lines to draw from the bottom worked quite well and fit beside the air cleaner (mostly because it was semi-squishable). Blue88Comanche - do you get oil drips from that breather filter? I was thinking of trying the same thing on mine.

Hi all, I am revisiting swapping my 92 instrument cluster into the 88 ... So ... Anyone happen to have the pinnout diagram of the 1988 MJ/XJ instrument cluster, and the same for a 1992? I basicly plan to eliminate the speedo cable, shouldn't be too difficult as other than the connector itself, the clusters are nearly identical (the speedo, tach and fuel guage are slightly different but that's more to do with updated equipment). The 92 guages work fine in my 88 (and were identical other than the metric/Sae readings), as I swapped the 92 US OP, ET, and volts guages into my cluster shortly after I got. The warning lamps module is the same more or less, so really it's just converting the main clutser connector over in the dash and adding the two wire Speed drive (I have a couple of those). easier to me than sourcing a new cable when I do the 4wd conversion, and I can share the fun afterwards. wire colors should be similar as well I imagine, since the 92 column swapped right in as did a number of the high zoot add ons under the dash ... and when tearing apart the 92 most of the connectors were the same with a few minor exceptions (mostly bulb sockets and such). shouldn't be too much trouble as the 91-92 speedo drives are independant of the PCM and basicly just do what the 87-90 sppedo cable did but with wires (the drives are even just a cable drive with a speed sensor added anyway. Tried the whole internet search and got a crap tonne of ZJ connector pinnouts, but nothing so far on the XJ/MJ except for the 97+ era. Any help would be greatly appreciated dave

Even a Zone one is better than that junk, have a Zone on my XJ and I think an RV on the MJ (came with a front axle). My dealings with Rusty's has been similar to Eagle, the first Trac bar on my XJ was a Rusty's. Pure junk, even harder to get the correct bushing to fix mine. Ended up scrapping the damn thing.

I was wondering too, at first I thought it was a soft top mod ... Then I looked closer :eek:

Specs? As in sizes? Replace the ones you want to keep with 3/16" brake line. If you are going around the EGR, most of those lines will go away. Most of the Vacuum mess is all to do with the EGR system (from valve to transducer then on to the fender mounted solenoid) and a few more for the heat stove (which is really all but useless with efi anyway ... Another throwback to carburetion). What you'll be left with is the FPR line, the MAP line, and the CCV line.

Sorry, I was meaning the clevis' ... But I already found them ... Lokal part right? Damn expensive though, shipping here is $30 alone.

You wouldn't happen to have a part number for those ... Would you? I'm wanting to go disc in the rear as simply as possible ... Without having to disable/delete the ebrake until I can find the correct cables. Would also like to use those to get the XJ ebrake working again.

EGR valve is on the side of the intake manifold directly below the throttle body on the outer edge. Beside that is the EGR transducer. Adding clutch fluid ... DOT 3 brake fluid ... Goes into the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Behind the washer fluid bottle, besides the brake booster ... Whiteish yellow cap in your picture.

I have about 5.75" and 35's on my XJ Your earlier front wheel opening are larger than my late model. I did trim and add Napier V2's.

The 96 and newer 231's (both XJ and TJ) used an external slip, so there is no extension housing. Are you sure it's from a 92? A picture would save a crap ton of guess work.

I used to run 255/75r17 (32") and 3.07's on the highway, didn't mind only had to drop to 4th for the hills, with the 5spd it was liveable. Took them off to add 225/60R18 off a Charger for better fuel economy and less stress on my dying motor. Looks kinda rice, but my fuel tank stays full longer so I live with it for now (and they were $50 for 4 @ 70% tread). Plan to swap to 3.55 and the 32's when it hits the road again. That puts it right where I want it performance wise. Keeps the rpms liveable on the highway and still puts me in the 18-20mpg zone. With 235/75r15's and 3.07's I was pulling in 22mpg steady. The 32's kinda killed that but looked stellar. With 3.55's I should be able to roll in the same rpm range on the way to work.

Yep, 2000 XJ header and fenders (the old 88's fit fine but didn't match properly) still has stock bumper but I removed the side caps, and uses the stock 88 flares (trimmed on front edge) and antenna. The later model end caps can be made to fit the early bumper (I just plan to use a trimmed JK bumper instead so never bothered).