Rockfrog

The Cherokee it was in sat for two years (maybe more). The person I sold it to just replaced the rear main and come tested it. Was a friend of mine, so he got his money back and I got my motor back. I'm leaning towards a popped gasket due to overheating, there were a few leaks when I brought the Cherokee home. Looks like someone spent a ton of money trying to fix everything but the main problem - a leaking water Flush Tee on the heater hose. And a dead fan clutch. I can't see any indication of cracking, and the water was getting in on the head side of the gasket. Will have to check for warping when I get home after this shift. But from what I can tell, a new gasket and I'm good to go. Probably just order rings and bearings and a timing set anyway before I drop it in (my 88 block NEEDs machining, the 92 doesn't)

Are they reading wrong or they just don't return to zero? Stock guages are a random return type, where they go wherever they want when the power is off and only read zero when you turn the key prior to starting. They are also randomly incorrect (or randomly correct depending on how you look at it). And I agree, there is nothing about them that would be misaligned by simply brushing the dust off, unless you did it with a hammer.

So sold my 92 HO motor, and just got it back, again. So it's going back to going in the MJ. So, it has zero compression on 3 and 4, low on 2, and 5, good on 1 and 6. Pulled the head and found wet gasket and coolant in 3/4. Other wise it looks better than my 88 4.0, can even see some cross hatching in the cylinders. Pistons are tight in the bore, head looks good, can't see any visible issues really. My thoughts are a bad head gasket (either install or blew it at some point). Any advice on where to look for a reason for the low Comp? It did sit for over two years, stuck rings? When I started it up before chopping and stripping it started and idled great.

Possibly the end of another BA10/5?

No need for the HO pedal, just the cable, you just need to bend the Renix pedal slightly to take up the slack. Been running mine for about 6 months now.

Wow, that's how I feel about my wife's 4dr Wrangler ... My Comanche has a better build quality to it. I mourns the loss of Jeep.

Yeah, from underneath, easy enough to get to from the underside. At least how I pulled mine. Then I moved it to the thermostat housing recently the last go around.

You got lucky, the pins I did use had to have the hinges set in a vice, and spent time and heat to get them to finally budge. Used my u-bolt press to seat them so I didn't accidently hammer my hinges off the body.

So ... Just to kill this beast. Got the eBay hinge pins, way off. Way to big and thin as paper. I ended up scabbing the door side hinges and pins off the rear of the 92 XJ I chopped up a few weeks ago. Not perfect but better. Had to cut the old hinges off as the stock roll pins weren't coming out for no one. At least now it's an easier fix in the future. Although I'll have to get my hinges welded back on if I do it again. Glooped some SikFlex on the hinge seams just to keep it dry.

When I replaced my rear brake lines I didn't touch the tank or bed. I pulled the whole rear circuits, of which pretty much everything behind the tank to rear was crumbly rotten. I used a section of the rear line running from the dist valve the just forward of the Crossmember, had that flared and used a union and a 60" pre-fabricated length. Bent to suit, another 36" pre Fab length, bend and cut to length. Had a local brake shop do my flaring, $5 a flare when they remembered to charge me. I also used the opportunity to swap in an XJ prop valve and delete the load valve. But now, if I have a rear line problem it's all easy to get at and replace with off the shelf prefab lengths ... I also snagged a double flare kit for the future.

Isn't the MJ axle similar in width to the Wide Track FSJ rear? CJ's used 5 on 5.5" bp FSJ were 6 on 5.5" And MJ/cars were 5 on 4.5" There may be other widths when you get into the car applications as well. But they may be the CJ widths as well.

Kelly's Works In Progress ... Generally registers as 5-90 on most of the sites I've seen him on.

I get plenty of character lines driving the back roads out here, good ole BC pinstripes. Last time I painted a vehicle, it cost me $60 ... Add an extra can for touch ups and call it done. If I never hit the woods I pony up for decent paint, but one good scratch/dent and even the most expensive paint won't hold up any better. My Cherokee still has factory paint, and scratches from the brush going past the clear coat.

Given that the steering damper is mounted through the passenger side sway bar mount ... If those bushings are worn, it will make a pop when you turn. They probably don't fit properly either, mount stud for the sway bar had 1/2" ish hole, damper studs are about 3/8" with around a 3/4-7/8" bushing hole.

Street Queen = auto paint Bush/work Truck = spray paint Just the way I see it.

Pete, I'm just curious why the JK flip is more difficult? Are you leaving the drag link under still? My WJ knuckles (on the XJ, still collecting bits for the MJ swap) use similar steering arrangement, reemed them for GM ends OTK without issue. But if you're wanting to keep the drag link under ... Yeah, not so simple there.

I have a set of 2dr XJ buckets in my MJ, bolted right to my factory brackets. 12 bolts/nuts per seat (4 floor to bracket, 4 seat base to seat frame, then 4 seat frame to bracket ) and I was done, easy peasy. I am curious if any other seat will bolt in as well, my 2dr's are starting to look like my old stock buckets ... Worn and done.

I've always had the opposite problem, always getting the three pins switches when I needed blades.

A good thick steel DOM tube will bend less, cost less (both to purchase and fabricate), and won't off the excitement of threads pulling out either. Just my opinion on it.

Aluminum work hardens easily, it will "snap back" only to certain extent, go past that point, or do it too often ... It'll bend and stay.

That's a JK

He is, it's easy to get caught up in all the minor changes made over the years ... Until you realize they weren't really changes just updates. The VSS' used from 87-01 are fully compatible as far as drive mechanism and mounting method, swap the one you need. The manual transmissions used from 1989 1/2 to 2006 used the exact same 23 spline, 6 bolt pattern ... As did the automatics from 1990-2006. Only the 4cyl and earlier transmissions used a different pattern (the 2.8L gets lumped in with the 4cyl in my brain).

The ax15 will mate to pretty near any jeep transfer case made from 1990-2006 (there are a few exceptions to this, but and 231/242 will). The speed sensor may look different, but the mounting pattern and drive specs are the same, they just changed what went in the hole over the years. In any event, yes, the input gears are swappable, although the ax15 has more than enough spare room to accept even the ZJ style long input gear. All ax15s used a 6 bolt transfer case output pattern, and a 23 spline ouput shaft, this was never changed.

Man, i make some of the best tinfoil hats, all piratey like, with cool coat hanger anti brain-melter ears amd all. My thoughts are my own ... so are my cornered stock of triangle gaskets. I replace them annually. Actually, my reservoir (which is actually relocated to the inner fender in front of the fan) is good and the vacuum lines in the engine bay are good. The vacuum harness and actuator inside the cab ... not so sure about. And from the mess the PO made of the dash harness, fuse panel, and radio install ... pretty sure my problem is behind the dash. Either it's come apart or something stopped doing stuff ... one day I'll deal with it. Likely when I replace the engine (1990 -C101 delete and DRL's) and dash (1988 XJ in mint shape) harnesses ... might as well make it painful.

??? The blend door is in the bumper? News to me ... Have you been hanging out with mister triangle gasket guy? Or are we having an app issue and somehow got the vacuum reservoir thread crossed? Honestly, now I'm confused (although it's not so unusual) ... My phone has been acting up the last day.