Rockfrog

This is because you have to slide the selector lever to "OFF" for the fan to stop. Otherwise it runs on low with the speed switch down. The valve was eliminated in later models as unessecary. I eliminated the valve in my 1988 MJ during my cooling system rebuild 2yrs ago (original rad was literally crumbling). Just copied the layout of my 2000 XJ since the water pump and radiator came from it. Just used two lengths of 5/8" hose, did the same on my XJ, both work flawlessly just like they should. Heater works great when I want it to, and does nothing when I don't want it to. Only problem now is I only get flow I defrost, but that's usually where I leave it anyway. 5 Min's down the road the cab is toasty enough to warm my toes ... Eventually I'll dive into the dash and sort it out.

Good to know since I just pulled a brand spanking new Bosch pump assembly from the tank on my 92 parts XJ. I was wondering if they would work together.

Essentially nothing, the 91-95 are probably the football type reservoir. It's just a cannister with a vacuum port on it, nothing fancy, you can make one out of just about anything, seen them made from water bottles before. As mentioned above, hit the wreckers and snag one for next to free.

My 88 was supplied with a smaller round ball, as opposed to the football some have mentioned. I just pulled a football from a 92, other than it's size the smaller "balls" are the same fittings wise. It's one of those parts I don't think changed at all during the production run of the XJ/MJ's

Disregard, I need to read better

Originally I left it inplace but disabled the valve (the valve is closed normally). Just removed all the EGR vacuum hosing, transducer and solenoid. Then finally removed it altogether when I swapped an HO head intake and exhaust a couple months ago. The pipe is threaded the same as an O2 sensor M22 so an O2 sensor plug will work. You could always do the fold and crimp, fold again and crimp. Done that on a few vehicles.

The vacuum bottle for my 1988 MJ is exactly the same as the one on my 2000 XJ.

Mine was removed 2 days after I got the truck. It was all NFG and needed replacing anyway. Still pulled 22mpg hi way. No overheating, a bus load of nuns/school kids didn't spontaneously explode. Trucks been running fine the last two years now, about 34,000kms so far. As gogmorgo mentioned ... The issue is area legality, not so much function.

One word ... Velcro Works for my little girl, and they last as long as the shoe. Besides, if cow crap is the worry, looks ain't a concern. Personally I grew up wearing gumboots on the farm, no need for laces. But you already covered slip on.

They can be had new from rockauto.

Mine only leaks through my distributor, about three drops a day ... It's pretty shot, just hummin' and hawin' about fixing it. Otherwise no leaks. I used a worn out 92 head ... And of course I forgot to replace the valve seals before installing it. Work called and my 2 weeks off turned into 4 days, things went back together quick fast ... She was down to the block. May have skipped a few steps. I do know the bore are fairly polished. Didn't have time for a hone, spent most of my time cleanning the crud out of the pan, timing cover, lifter gallery, and everywhere else. I'm guessing I'm losing compression through the seals and the Rings (may just be the seals if I'm lucky). She still motivates something nasty even pushing the 32's (265/75r17) with stock 3.07's though, a lot more than I expected after seeing the bores.

Did you shorten the flutes in the valve cover? You know the problem with them is that they reached all the way down to the oil splash on top of the head. Took very little pressure from the crankcase to get oil to be sucked out the flutes. I did originally ... Then went one step further ... HO head, and the valve cover and CCV system off my '00 XJ (which has a 93 head and VC with no blood or oil in the filter). CCV was replaced with new parts back in October.

Well, I have a perfectly functioning CCV system ... And oil dripping through my filter. To say the PO neglected my motor is an understatement to say the least. But, on a good condition motor, cruiser is right, you will cure the issue by maintaining the CCV or updating it. On a motor at the other end of the scale ... Find other solutions ... The air/oil separator is my next plan. Not wanting to re-doing my motor for a wee bit o blow by just yet. She still pulls strong and runs great. So, admit it, your both right. Just on opposite sides of the same coin.

FYI - The complete front vacuum assemblies are 46004 and 46003 (it is two parts with a vacuum manifold stye connection), the rear is 46005.

The VC fitting for Renix era (87-90) 4.0's come as an assembly. That's why they look like a bunch of hoses ... The front elbow is molded to the air cleaner hosing, and the rear is part of another hose. It's not like the later engine's where there were separate elbows and hoses.

The spline count changed with the introduction of the AX15. The input gears are swappable across all years, so a 21 spl can be made a 23 spl easily enough. I have an 88 242 21 spl input gear in a 98 231 that was originally 23 spl. There was an internal gear pitch change in 94 (likely also when the brass shift synchro was deleted as well) as far as internal gears go, but it does no affect the inputs.

Seriously ... steel brakeline is the best overall fix IMO. It won't crack, won't melt, fits the stock rubber elbows better, is easy to bend, and will likely outlast the truck. This was an older picture, the greenish lines are 3/16" brakeline. When i replaced the top end with newer stuff i used more brakeline as well. Pretty m6ch all of my vacuum lines have been replaced with eqivalent sized brakelines at this point.

Yup, do what ya have to to get them off. Dealt with few times, although I just keep Goop-ing them back together because I'm cheap. If you decide to go this route, replace the bolts and nuts with whatever you want. But stock they are a Metric M5

Nope, that's a 2.5L And I agree, replace it with 3/16" brakeline ... most of my lines have been replaced with it on my 88's 4.0L. My CCV l7nes are 3/8" brakeline as well. Works great and fits the fittings better, with no worries about heat melting them.

If it's the line i think it is ... that's going to cause a vacuum leak.

They are Metric, maybe M8 or M10 (can't recall off hand) ...

Yep, that's them.

Me too, but I'm in another country, waiting like a kid at Christmas.

I'd rock that ... With a big arse grin on my face ... Love the whole FC line up, and this just takes it to a whole new level.

It's just 3/16" steel fuel line from tank to EVAP cannister, with rubber fuel line at the connections, check condition of the rubber, and blow air through the line. My thought was if the steel line is corroded/collapsed/blocked it may be creating a vapor lock as the tank won't vent properly (although usually they will pressurize, but it's cheap and simple to check).