Rockfrog

The water pumps are the same. I have a spare pump off my 2000 XJ currently cooling my 88 MJ. Not sure on the brake booster though.

Generally my Guage reads about 10v ... But I usually leave the blower on all the time anyway. Occasionally it will read 12v-ish and once in a blue moon it will read almost 14v. I've tested battery voltage and alt output, all well within spec on the high side. 12.4 batt, 14.2 charging ... Starter never lags, and she always fires right up (well as right up as a Renix gets, quicker since the 2.8L TPS swap, three beats and vroom). I'd prefer it to read battery voltage once in it's life. I added a 10g high strand lead from dash brace to ground. And upgraded all the battery ground leads to 2ga, with 4ga off the head to firewall. Looking for a 90 engine harness to make eliminating the C101 easier (I'm weird like that). I do have an 88 XJ interior/dash harness (that actually looks damn near new) I will one day swap in as my fuse box has been worked over by the previous owner. But, that's a task I'm not up to at the moment. My headlights have been relayed and the header harness rewired with a new 97+ harness so no real load from that side either (gauge barely even moves when I hit the headlights now. I do know I'm only getting around 5v through the clock circuit lead now, but that fuse box connection looks like the PO chewed on it for a while, then hammered back. Must be "a jeep thing ... hell if I understand" ...

Looks like the Renix voltage reading flows from the alternator light lead, what this means for what the Guage reads? Dunno, but it isn't reading charging voltage like the HO's do (or at least my 00 does). Which is what I want it to do.

One could always drill/retap to the next available size (in either metric or SAE) ... Use a Gr8 or 10.9 or better bolt and call it done. M12 is close to 1/2" (1/2" is 12.7mm) so that would be the first option, use 1/2-20 and call it done.

Good to know, my 88 Guage has never given me battery voltage, always way low. Tested the battery engine off and on and all was fine. But looking at the gauge you'd think the battery or alt was done for. Time to do some light reading on rerouting the Renix gauge lead.

Well damn, think I'll do this on the MJ, although I only have a 92 and a 94 fan in my spares list. Although I might pull my 00 fan and swap it for the 94 and run it as the main fan and use the 92 as a secondary ... XJ fan never runs anyway (No A/C (oba) and a cool running motor due to new/maintained cooling system). The motor runs at whatever temp I toss in for a thermostat since I converted to a 2000 XJ rad (my old stock rad after a re&re on the 00 ). Being a manual she runs cool as a cucumber anyway. Might as well let a few ponies out. Might need to upgrade the stock alt though, pretty sure is a measly 60A and tired at that. Always wondered about this one, nice.

I am going with a set of Charger 2325's probably throw a set of JK bfg take off tires on them eventually, but there is a set of 245/70/17's for $150 locally that I'm going to use first. I grabbed some Jeep centers for them as well, and yeah, I'm likely going to paint them ... either a Satin Black or a Graphite ... it will better match the eventual paint job the MJ will get. But, hey, I liked black wheels long before they were cool.

I have that set, have for 18yrs, used it once ... when I first got it. still sits in the thrid drawer of my tool box.

yes, but the GM TPS is cheaper still ... and a bazillion times more likely to be found in a Wrecking Yard (how many 2.8L manual trans cars/trucks left the GM factories between 1986 and 1991? Compared to 4.0L Comanche/Cherokee's from 87-90?). Last check the Auto trans sensor was ~$60 on rockauto, the GM sensor is $21 on rockauto. Only takes a quick wire swap to work, and is completely reversable. If I had an auto .... wouldn't have even crossed my mind, but I just happened to have a manual, and happened to get saddled with these two 2.8L efi engines in the back of my parts XJ so .... now there is a source for 5spd manual TPS's compatible with the Renix system. FYI - the sensor next to the GM takeoff is an auto TPS that used to reside on my engine until I tried the GM sensor (AMC on the left, GM on the right). it had a flat spot on take off, and when I got it the wiring wasn'f sealed properly (hence the RTV) ... since I had these two sensors, and the inkling to try ... I have now put just over 500kms on it without even a hiccup, flat spot, hesitation or burp. I just wanted to share my findings was all, and add another JY source for parts (the original Delphi sensor is still going to be the more reliable one).

There should be a main power (12v constant) usually red or yellow, check the radio manual, hook that direct to the battery. Then there should also be a 12v switched, usually blue, hook that to the cig lighter power lead. That will supply power, retain settings, and shut the radio on/off with the ignition. When I got my 88 the radio worked, then I did some dash work and the 12v source for my radio (as the PO had wired it) started only supplying 5v... So either the clock or the radio would work, but not both. Rewired it through an acc outlet and the signal off the lighter. Found my voltage issue to be a bad fuse box terminal, we'll, all of them have been curfuddled with and are bent/broken ... Not in the mood to swap the dash harness just yet though.

Picked up a 92xj for parts, been using parts of it to fix/add to the MJ. I now have a working antenna, you never know how nice radio is until you don't have it. Added the XJ headlight timer, plugged right in. Lights the driveway after shut off. Fixed my ebrake so now it works again. Swapped my black dash bezel for the XJ's Argent one. And the XJ's AX15 will eventually find it's way into the MJ. Along with the '94 AX15's bell setup (was my previous spare).

Because it's on an HO throttle body. I did an HO head (92) and manifold (99 intake) back in October-ish. Been driving around for the last day, the GM TPS even got rid of a hesitation when starting in first, always thought it was another unrelated issue.

The two TPS' side by each. The conversion harness to test it all. Stock wires re-arranged in the plug to GM pattern. The old adapter harness reset for use as a test dongle. The wire nuts simply cover the wire leads used to test and adjust.

I have the tools, I made the harness as a tester, I didn't want to rearrange the connector before I proved function. Hell, I didn't even adjust the TPS or even add the second spacer, it's just quickly popped in place. Idle is better than my current Renix TPS. Now that I have proven it works, I'll rearrange the wire order in the stock connector and on the Renix side of the adapter harness . And the harness will now become a test/adjuster harness. I didn't want to futzing with it too much if it wasn't going to work.

So ... The crossover harness ... WORKS PERFECTLY! SO ... The GM 2.8L TPS (and pretty near all GM engines) from 86-91 (and possibly later as GM TPS still work the same) will work to replace the 5spd renix sensor. Use the 86-87 S10 version for a correctly angle plug, 88-91 will have the plug straight up. You will only need to rearrange the wires in the plug once and it's a direct swap. Picture of my hacktastic adapter harness in a minute. Just have to let the phone charge. But I did drive around the block and back again.

Yeah, the issue is the way the Renix reads voltage, and the way it is wired internally it seems. It may read voltage (climbing) the same as the GM sensor, but the internal pinout of the sensor is different making them a direct swap incompatible. And Suzuki and GM have had a long relationship over the years, I would suspect a considerable compatibility there. From my research a simple wire swap should allow use of the 86-91 2.8L TPS (86-87 are physically the same as the Renix, 88-91 point the connector straight up but function the same). I'm making and quickly adapter harness right now. If it works, and 87 s10 tps is a direct swap with a simple wire rearrange on the plug. And they run $21-32 on rockauto, vs $118 for the Renix manual version and $60 for the auto.

I'm going to wire a simple adapter harness and try it again, cross yer fingers.

I think I found it, GM sensor - A - ground B - SIGNAL C - 5V reference Renix - A - Positive 5V reference B - ground C - SIGNAL SO... Assuming I have this right, I just need to re-arrange the wires in the connector and the cheaper GM sensor ... That is roughly $100 cheaper ... And readily available ... Is a doable thing. Makes sense why my idle went off the charts now. Gonna try this when I get the chance. In other news I got my ebrake working again, made me feel better after round 1 cheap tps fail.

Just checked the test specs ... .2 -.9V at idle, ranging to 5V at WOT ... Sound familiar? Maybe my sensors were shot. Might check the local parts store prices and test a new one if I get a decent enough deal.

Tried it, got an idle of 2500rpm, and if I relaxed the sensor, a no start. So much for the cheap and easy ... It was too good to be true. Unless the junkyard throwaway sensors were junk, since my stock sensor did the same thing when it went out. But I doubt it.

So, I picked up a 92 XJ and in the back just so happens to be two 2.8L GM V6 boat anchors (extra scrap weight value I guess). So I start looking at what I can scavenge from them, alternator, throttle bodies for future projects ... Wait a minute ... That GM tps looks awfully familiar ... Unfortunately my stock TPS died (old AMC manual version) and got hacked during the HO head/TB conversion. But the GM tps' on the 2.8's looks and feels just like the old AMC/Renix tps... Even the same arm actuators. The plug orientation is different, but if it fits and works the same.... They are only $28 on rockauto... 1988 Camano 2.8L tps is what I have two of. Am I loosing my marbles or is it just possible I can bolt these on?

Why? Just stuff it full of toilet paper instead.

If you read the article GM plans to base a new Wrangler attack off the older Hummer concept, not that the Hummer division was going to (Hummer died I 2009).

Fyi - if you have a stock AMC 20, it is already a one piece shaft design, only the CJ's got the two piece shafts.

Yeah the rear solid window is a pretty flat plate (or at least flat enough), i strapped my "new to me" one to a sleave of plywood to keep it whole during transport. Then wrapped it in three blankets .... wasn't taking any chances. Plan is to have a lexan copy cut as a backup plan for my next idiot maneuver, not that it'll ever happen again ...