Rockfrog

Highest vacuum reading will be at idle, and it goes down as rpms increase with the lowest reading being at WOT IIRC.

I had actually thought of cleanning up the 92 and getting it back on the road. Just had a leaking clutch master and a cooked CPS wire. Until I lightly tapped the Rocker making a joke, and put my foot clean through.

Ballast resistor still in place? Have you ever blown the lines out with air? Filter in the correct way? Is the tank properly venting? Check the EVAP lines.

Two ripper blades for the frame rails and 7 zip discs, local hardware store had a sale on zip discs. The wife needed it gone for her Easter egg hunt for the kids. And the local scrap haulers couldn't help for another week. Still put $75 extra in pocket, so not too bad I guess. It was harder to cut the nose off than section the main body (that was surprisingly easy if you know where to cut).

It may just be the lock ring gasket, just fixed a similar issue on my motorhome ... Fill tank, river of gas ensues until the 3/4 mark, quite frustrating, easy enough fix.

81?

Making itself useful scrapping a cousin ... Missed a few loads, but she was sitting low with 2 2.8's, a D30 and the XJ's roof in the box.

I like to think of the 80's as the hangover for the 70's ... There was very little good to come out of the 80's as a decade in general.

Yup, super proud of myself there (yeah, I had a pretty lame day) ... And hey, that valve cover is the bomb! It even matches the OFA, timing cover and oil pan ... "It ain't easy being green" Keep threatening the wife with painting the whole truck that color.

If you look at my picture you can see the green brake line doing duty as the MAP line in the back. Here, let me make it easier for you, same motor, just a Buncha months back before I worked on it

Ok, I'll jump in ... Follow the line to it's end. Use the rubber elbows at each end (they are glued on but can be pulled off readily enough) and replace the broken plastic part of the Vacuum line with 3/16" brake line. Bend to the same shape as the plastic line. It will now outlast the vehicle, and you only need a file and a hacksaw to make it. Should cost you around $5 tops. It will fit the elbows better without gluing as well.

I was gonna mention that same rear bolt. Remember to put it in BEFORE dropping the head on ... Or you'll have to spend some time massaging the firewall pinch seam to get it in. Guess how I know that one? The cherry picker makes life so much easier, and smoother. If the manifolds studs are going to break they already have. But I can understand leaving it all together. Remember to disconnect the O2 sensor lead as well.

Thanks for those links by the way.

Down to $21 but parts are up to $9.24 dammit ... EBay it is then. Less hassle. I'll order extra and work on another generic crossover then.

I was looking at that one but thought it was about the door check pin, no way channel locks are gonna press out the hinge pins. Checked the eBay site ... Ouch! $24 shipping for two. Man, that's steep ... Guess ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

That's not possible with the 84-96 hinges ...

We got metric stuff all over the place up here ... Just sayin' ... And I got my drain plug wrenches for my Peugeot on eBay as well.

Making the truck level the fun way ... This truck works too! 92 4.0 in the back headed to its new home.

Ok ... Spent the better part of a day trying to find replacement hinge pins for my MJ. Anyone know if there are any? Or even a pin I can modify to suit. Going to tackle re-aligning the driver side door again, but it sags about 1/4" or so when it opens. I pulled parts from the 92 as far as shims and such go. Just need to replace these two pins. And do they just press up? Or do I grind the head and press down? Found lots on the 97+ hinges for XJ's but nothing other that rewelding the hinges to the body for earlier models.

Wait, so which gasket do I need for the ....

Replace it, a used 231 can be found for $50. Just keep the input gear and front yoke.

Not that that hasn't been mentioned before ... Multiple times

ONLY for the 97-06 valve covers ... The earlier ones DO NOT use them.

If your worried about the fender itself ... Don't I've been driving my MJ to work and back, 250km each way, rilling 120-140km/h for the last year, before that my 2000 XJ was getting me there and back. My XJ has just the stock triangles as well. Remember the front of the fender is bolted to the rad support at three points on its leading edge, as well as the triangle supports to the core support. The flare braces also add quite a bit of rigidity to the fender as well. I did reattach the inner brace at the top of the flare. My XJ does not even use those anymore.