Rockfrog

Trust me, that ain't Death Wobble, if you get THE death Wobble, you are not in the least bit confused about what it was. And you need new gonch. Check for "lumpy" tires .... Just recently eliminated a horrible Wobble in my MJ... Had a front Tire with a broken/breaking belt (had uneven shape to the tread) And that started an episode of death Wobble one trip to work. Damn near tossed me off the road, not fun. Replaced the fronts, but still had a nasty wicked vibration at 100 km/h (around 65mph) ... Recently replaced those tires and fixed my wobbling vibrations. Been running these tires for over a year and a half, no issues until the last two months. Not bad for a $60 set of TJ take offs. Still have great tread, just past their time. When it was just the rear the truck would shake during vibration, started at 100 km/h and would die off about 120 km/h. No vibration through the steering wheel, mostly in the seat. General rule is if you can drive through it, tires, if it happens at specific speeds, tires .... If it can be heard/felt at all speeds, driveline .... Sometimes it takes a bit of time and patience to fell the low harmonic from a bad driveshaft, but if it is the driveshaft you will be able to feel even a slight vibe at low speeds. A bent wheel will act similar to a driveshaft ... and wag the dog as it were at speed. Move the tires around or swap another set on if available, if the harmonic (feel of, and onset speed of the vibe) changes, you have your cause. If no change move on to ujoint and shafts. Just my opinions

Wish it was that simple, no one wants to meet at 6am especially a wrecking yard owner. All good $17.85 delivery to me next Thursday... Or I might have him deliver to the glass shop and make an appointment for when I get home again.

Working on it, just got off the phone with them, trying to work on getting it shipped down here. Piss off is I have to leave for work tomorrow and my crew bus drives right past it. Dammit, going to work like this is gonna suck.

This is something you can literally do yourself. The brass and steel synchro assembly was actually eliminated sometime early in the 90's (not sure when - maybe with the gear pitch change in 94?) And just a plain steel single piece was used. The cheapest solution is to swap another tcase in for around 50 bucks and a bit of time to swap the input gear across. Easy to do. Or just run it like it is.

Well, so far there is nothing new available in Canada, slider or not. Is the rear window perfectly flat, or is it curved? Looks like I've going to have to scour the wrecking yards, but so far it's not looking good either. Any other options? Retrofitable Windows?

No, won't work, a 91 or newer column will use a single style key similar to the 97+ and the door locks should be swappable. But the later lock cylinder is not going to fit where the old one lived without a new column. I have a 92 column in my MJ, just have to swap to 91+ doors now for the single key. The later door locks have a larger base than the earlier door opening. So, 97+ doors, and 91+ column rekeyed to match doors should do it. Or have the doors rekeyed to match the column. But my 'new' MJ key fits both my 00 XJ and my wife's 08 JK cylinders so it should work. Of note... The ign switch plugs are upside down compared to the earlier columns, when you get to it and find they don't seem to fit.

The coils will mount up, but they use a fairly soft spring rate. Expect at least, a 1" drop maybe a bit more. TJ coils would lower a XJ/MJ 1" ... And TJ front coils lift the JK front 1" ... All has to do with engine placement and leverage on the spring. Might work if it's going into a 4cyl, that little V6 in the JK doesn't weigh much when compared to a 4.0L

Up in Canada, on Vancouver Island ... not so local, thanks though. Currently rocking the redneck mattress packaging rear window and super awesome duct tape seal. Not bad from 80' away ... Lowers head in shame.

So through an unfortunate series of events, today's plans turned into an hour of gutting the MJ to remove the remnants of the rear Glass. Is it still an available part or am I going to be looking at modding something else in there? Wasn't a slider, just a regular straight glass window. And I had just placed my CC logo on it three days ago, dammit all.

They are the same length, but 3/4" out on the pin. 25 1/4" x 31 3/4" as opposed to the stock MJ's 26" x 31" They would shift the rear axle 3/4" forward, a new spring plate (or just a new hole) And either new perches or redrilled would solve that though.

Looked into a rebuild of my current Springs with a 2" re-arch ... $500 I have stock 2wd rears, Monroe load levellers and GM lowering shackles. In front I have Moog variable rate ZJ fronts and 1" spacers ... Problem is my drivers side is visibly more sagged than the passenger side ... Front is all new so was just looking at rear spring options ... Figured the flatter Ford 2wd Springs (4wd were a 3" spring) would lessen the height gain was all.

Awe crap, not planning that high yet, but good to know for later on I guess. Search continues ... Even a low 5" would be doable with 3" in the front.

I have a buddy who just did Explorer leafs on an soa MJ, he reported a gain of about 1.25" over stock MJ leafs.Exactly what I was hoping to hear ... Which sets the stage for the eventual gear swap from the XJ to MJ down the road. THANKS

Because my current rear leaves are bagged ... And one day down the road the MJ will be 4wd and eventually replace the XJ on the trail. So there may one day down the road be 33's ... But for now 31's it is

Was just asking as I can get f150 Springs cheaply in these parts. They have a matching spring rate and easily modified to suit leaf lengths. My current load capacity is ... Well ... Less than stellar (even with load levellers and GM lowering shackles). Even with just me the drop is quite apparent when I step into the back ... And I'm only about 180lbs. A new set of leaves (actually just having mine rebuilt loacally) is gonna push $500 ... And having a set shipped up from the states is not worth the cost in shipping (you can figure to add another $200 or so).

Anyone know of a set of Springs I can use to get a slightly lower than usual SOA height? Planning to swap a 3.55 geared 8.25 in the rear and really only want 3-4ish inches in the rear. Looking for a flatter spring to use. Perhaps maybe a stock main with something like Ford 2wd 1/2 ton lower leaves? A Modified bastard pack, so I retain/increase the load carrying capacity but not the 5-6 inch lift height? This will only sit on 31s and be mainly a work/get me to work truck. Planning an overall 3" max front lift to match. I am looking for a stiffer rear spring and figured a flatter spring, sprung over might set me where I want ... With load capacity and still fight spring wrap more than the stock Springs would. Or, have I just lost my last marble?

Exactly, I use the road side radars too, and at 100km/h my stock speedo was 10km/h off... 10% ... Meaning at 50 km/h I was actually doing 45km/h ... 10%. It is only 7mph out at that speed, not at all speeds.

Just read the description of the Clifford header, you would need the Y-pipe (09-0240) for it, and adapt the stock exhaust to that. Add any bugs into the Y-pipe and call it done.

The manifolds mount up the same, the difference between the two is EGR port, O2 bung location and output angle. Renix has EGR, and O2 on the manifold with a straight down output. HO has no EGR, O2 bung is on the down pipe not the manifold, and has a 45 degree back output angle. To make the later manifold work on the Renix you need to change the angle on the downpipe, and if needed add a O2 bung (if not on manifold). The flange mount is the same. O2 sensor wiring has enough slack to reach if routed correctly. They moved the ports, but did not change the port relation AFAIK renix exhaust ports are the same as HO, it's the intake ports that moved, but all bolt and stud locations are the same. Even then it was only 1/8" of difference.

I have about 5.5 - 6" lift on my XJ rear, 8.25. SYE so the pinion is pointed at the case output. No issues here for the last year and some since my regular, and none the year before. I also have a ruffstuff cover so have the ability to run more oil if I wanted. An MJ would need far less angle than my XJ so I wouldn't worry about it. The ring gear gets a good splash going on inside underway. Besides just imagine the pinion angles the YJ/TJ guys need to run.

Thanks, I try. And today's excitement ... New (to me tires) two good ones, two not so good but use able, two toasted... The really good tires have no rims. The other four are on steel 5 spoke jeep wheels. Going to paint those satin black and add trim rings. (I really like the look of them that way). Then use the 4 best tires between my current set and the new ones. Otherwise, we added, trimmed and secured the old 88 flares to the 00 fenders. Then painted the headlight trim amd grille insert. And added a late model door check to the drivers door, popped it off, smacked the hinges back into place and re mounted the door. It's way better now, and finally, actually seals. Snapped a pic before it got too dark out. Dropped the front receiver off at the fab shop to get some brackets made for the new (to me) bumper I'm going to use. Some may not like it, but I think it'll work good. Yeah, that's right, a JK bumper, complete with tow hooks and fog lamps. Trimmed correctly it should look good to.

I have an old 80's shop manual that shows the proper procedure for rebuilding an aluminum core plastic tank Rad. You use vice grips set to the proper closing distance to recriminations the tank to the core. But, of all the recent rads I've seen, the retainer clips would most likely snap off when you bend them up. I've often though of using two stock automatic coolers as heat exchangers for an on board hot water for the wife. Run them inside a cannister plumbed into the heater lines. Supplied via a bilge pump should make for a nice camp shower.

Got Monroe load leveler shocks for the rear, swapped out easy peasy with no broken studs. Pulled the stock steering damper, swapped for one off a spare axle I had, looks to be a RE damper, could care less as long as it works (stock one was bone dry and shot). Got some death Wobble on the Highway, happens above 115km/h so did a front end alignment in my driveway, better but a balance check of the front tire revealed the passenger front is no longer quite so round, yay. Gonna work on getting the front flares on and maybe a little painting this weekend. Going to re-sign the drivers door as well after I hammer the hinges back to spec.

Why not just eliminate it? It was only added in 88 because old ladies were complaining about the fuel pump being loud. Doubt you would even hear it in an MJ. I can't ... Removed my ballast resistor 2 weeks ago, haven't blown up yet.

There were only two styles of caliper used from 84-01 ... AMC and Chrysler. There were only two base styles of knuckle AMC and Chrysler (although the ABS knuckles differed slightly they only added a mounting hole for the sensor). There were three styles of rotor that matched the three styles of hub bearings ... It's not the confusing mess everyone seems to make it out to be. There were only two basic shaft types, CAD and Non CAD. The shafts came in earlier 260 series joints, 297 series joints and CV style. Any limited with ABS will get you ... Non CAD housing, and 297 series shafts. I had a post saved that laid out all this info broken down by years. Just wanted to point out, how less than complicated it really is. I'll post it up when I find it again.