Rockfrog

I can look for the part numbers when I get home from work (out on the ocean now) Tuesday evening. The XJ/MJ only used two knuckles 84-89 and 90-01 (06 for TJ same knuckle though). The bearings followed a similar pattern 84-89, 90-99.5, 99.5-01(06) The split at 89 marking the switch from AMC/Bendix to Chrysler parts. Apparently there was a ujoint stub available in the European market that would negate the need for the spacer, but no one I've seen ever bothered to track one down. It was a part number available in a book kind of thing. The WJ hubs would still need the spacer to align the ujoints of the XJ/MJ/TJ stub shafts. That is the real purpose of the spacer. I had heard that it was possible to use the earlier hubs to eliminate the need to use caliper spacers when using Explorer rotors (to avoid having to drill the rotor) but then you also had to shave the hubs a bit to do so. I went with drilling the new pattern, an old XJ rotor and a 5/8" drill bit makes easy work of that, the XJ rotor hat fits perfectly inside the WJ rotor as a drill guide.

No, they are an oddball, but the MJ and XJ use the same goofy Peugeot mount. The AX4, 5, 15, and automatic mounts are all pretty much the same with merely crossmember placement differences. The Ba 10/5 on the other hand is about as gangly as gangly can get. That damn mount is nearly the size of the transfer case.

The JKS (or other brand) spacers are there as you stated just to align the ujoint. If you are staying 2wd they are not needed. The WJ hub is the same as the later XJ/TJ but with the differing bolt pattern. I am planning to do the same swap on my MJ, just still up in the air on the 4wd conversion yet. I have had the WJ conversion on my XJ for about 2yrs now. Stellar braking even with 35" rubber, matched with TJ/ZJ/Explorer rear discs it brakes better than it ever did stock. Predictable and dependable. I did use the Teeves calipers and have yet to warp a rotor ... But they allow the use of a 15" wheel. I also moved to a combo of GM and Dodge truck ends for the tie rod and drag links. But the stock XJ/MJ/TJ/ZJ taper is the same as the WJ and has been reused in other builds. It just uses the lower steering arms and mounts slightly lower. And yes, the lowers have to be changed, the WJ/JK lower ball joints use a different taper than earlier Jeeps. The uppers are identical to the earlier years though.

As long as the rotors match the hubs you are good to go. There was only one caliper used from 1990-01 Two rotors - 1990-99 composite rotor 1999-06 cast rotor Two hubs - 1990-99 1999-06 (usually referred to as a 2000 TJ as 99 was a transition mid year and the Cherokee died in 01). Eagle actually has a nice post that explains it all in detail. Before 90 the knuckle, brakes and hubs were the older AMC/Bendix system and incompatible (and completely different). If it worries you you can swap out the studs for longer ones easily enough, I usually pull the studs before scrapping a hub and they all, so far have been the same length.

Correct and hard to find regardless, I found one NIB off eBay a while back for $60 after shipping (schwiiing!) back when the Canuck buck still had some value. Last I looked, Crown still made them but at bend over pricing. Still debating whether to use it ... or move forward with the AX-15 swap. Other that the propotioning valve, the fuel pump assembly (the XJ units can be adapted), and the box light/switch, some rear harness wiring and the ebrake assembly ... It's mainly XJ.

Exactly ... Many of the parts on my MJ literally came off XJ's of varying years. From front fenders to interior and engine parts.

I bled the master cylinder first at the fitting, bench bleeding it. Then let it gravity bleed through the slave for 10-15 Min's (about 1/2 cup or less of old fluid. Then bled the system normally at the Bell fitting. When my pedal hit the floor it was a broken return spring in the master. Snapped in half internally. During the repair, I noticed it looks like the PO had the pedal assembly repaired due to a broken pedal at some point as well.

The HO columns had the IGN switch oriented upside down and backwards to the earlier Renix versions. When you go to connect the blue and black IGN switch connectors you may need to flip the plugs around. The column I used in my 88 was a 92 and my spare 93 column is the same ... a 91 may actually use the earlier switch connector arrangement, but just so you know. And if swapping stick to 93 down, the wiring connectors on the 94's changed making a bit more work to fit them in.

Renix has the O2 in the manifold, HO places the O2 sensor in the down pipe. De-loom the O2 wires a bit, reroute and the current O2 will go in the HO location. The angle of the HO and Renix exhaust manifold the downpipe are different, Renix being straight down and HO being about 45 degrees to the rear. The flanges are the same though so have the current exhaust modified when the O2 bung is added. My 1988 has an HO head, intake and exhaust with an adapted downpipe from the donor. All still Renix powered. I also deleted the EGR system a few years back, so that will be an issue. But adding an EGR bung is as easy as adding an O2 bung.

Test power at the red/gold lead, then test when the radio is turned on. I had a similar issue where I had voltage, but not enough to run the clock and radio. Could only get the OR the radio to work at one point. Given my fuse box was hacked by the PO I pulled power from the lighter circuit for the radio as a work around. I was seeing only 5v on that circuit at times. Haven't had an issue since, but also picked up a new (to me) 88 fuse box/dash harness to mess with another day and solve that and a few other issues the PO left me to fend with.

That I would buy, a Wrangler looking truck though ... Wouldn't even bother looking at. As for affecting MJ values ... doubtful really, too late.

That's the exact role the contractor is targeting. Troop transport in low risk environments. The same role the HMMVW filled back when it first came in. I could also see use as a light recce role. But honestly, there are better choices these days. They are pushing the cost savings though, due to use of a civilian production model. Up north we've done this same thing using civvy pattern trucks for low risk combat environments and basic transport needs.

The larger the fastener, the lower the retention of red. It actually works more like Blue when the fastener gets up around 1/2", used to use red all the time on spacers when I used the hub adapters, came off just like blue when changing and retorquing. Red should be fine on the hub bolts, but blue will do just as well. I would suspect contaminated surfaces/threads yielding and improper torque reading. Never had one back out on me and I use never sieze on mine. So my guess is they are not properly seating at torque.

An '03 block is far different than any ever used in an XJ (or an MJ) ... which still used the '87-98 pattern casting up until 2001 other than some ribbing and metallurgy the basic block barely changed. The '03 you are talking about would be after the '99 redesign and a lot of changes were made to the 4.0L block at that time.

Only for Renix. The timer for the HOs is in the ECU.......... IIRC that didn't start until 93 or so ... Something to check, I've parted a 91 XJ with the timer and used to own a 92 YJ that still used one, but then that's YJ stuff.

The dowels are a non issue, earlier heads never used them and the pins are on the head so not an issue. They can be simulated by cutting the top off a bolt to make an alignment stud (make 2 or 3) as I did when I dropped a 93 head on my 00 block.

Unplug the timer, and the light goes out. Smoky plastic jobs under the dash.

The 87-90 Renix heads had the intake ports 1/8" lower, adding even more mismatch to the problem. Better to find a 7120 or 0630 head for that motor and go forward with that. I run a 7120 head on my '00 but I have the Canadian early emissions version, similar to the US Federal emissions package so I converted to the earlier style exhaust as well.

With a TPS hooked up ... Disregard the wire colors, or the slightly different looking TPS.

The bring your own crayons edition ...

Want the one without my chicken scratch?

That was a common programming issue. I remember getting a notice about it for my old YJ. It was an "it may happen, and if it does ... replace the ECM, if it is of issue, otherwise it does no harm and can be ignored" kind of notice.

Sliders and revolvers .... Not a fan personally. Just more gimmicky from my perspective. If you are going to go that far with leaves, then skip straight to coils, although you may be experimenting with rear coil rates for a bit. The Grand already has the linkage recipe and parts (although longer links would be a plus and you have the room).

Ummm ... The flat male 3 wire connector (if it's the one I'm thinking of see below for more) is for the engine side of the equation. It needs to be connected for the ecm to be able to do it's thing. The square 4 wire plug is for the transmission (TCU) side of things. It will affect transmission shifting and functionality. So if the 3 wire connector on the engine harness is not connected to the TPS ... That is the most likely cause of the issue. Both connectors come off the same harness "trail" so should be right beside each other. The other 3 wire connectors in the general vicinity are the MAP sensor (green), O2 sensor (under the manifold and shouldn't reach), and the CPS lead (should be near back of the head only has 2 wires in 3 prong connector). Everything else is two lead (ECT, Injectors, Knock, and e-fan) and then the 4 lead for the IAC ... I only really mentioned ones around that area. Having done this same conversion a while back (and making a few location changes) I had a few WTF moments myself when I went to plug it all back in.

Yeah, now try later (92 up) model lock cylinders on older doors, that's when the problems start. The earlier hole is bigger than the later models and leaves a good size gap. I have a set of lock cylinders I was going to toss into my stock 88 doors, once I installed the first one I swapped back and started hunting for newer doors.