Rockfrog

Thought about doing red tow hooks and inside side of two grille slots ... Kinda trailhawk ish. But I've also been known to have dumb arsed ideas now and again. Like when I wanted to do a bogger tread racing stripe ... Have all the decals in marine grade black reflective for after it's done as well. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Rustoleum self etching primer. Now if only the damn wind would die down I could finish this mess. Right now the bow is cleared, needs sanding and a re-clear, and the cab forward is still like the previous picture. Also picked up a 3.73 lsd 8.8 for a regear. Will worry about a matching front later down the road. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

So, this week's shift at home brings us more excitement ... ... OK, not really, but I did do some crap to the Comanche. Made a new bumper-ish, has a 2" receiver behind/below it. And it's all tied into the stock bumper location as well as the swaybar mounts. Started painting the old girl, started shooting primer, then decided I really liked the color, so gonna hit it with clear coat after. Got this far before the weather went south on me. Cleared the tailgate as a tester and really liked it. Looks like the new wrangler green, thinks it's called Sarge or some such. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Now I remember why you added the drops, they sway was rubbing the coils, you may need to move the location of the sway bar then. But given the coils look bowed I would recheck the suspension geometry and then go back to the swaybar. I relocated my sway bar on my XJ about 6" forward (it actually mounts off the front bumper mounts now). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Could be just the picture but the passenger side coil has a good hint. The curl to that spring suggests the caster is out, and looking at the pictures makes the knuckle appear to be "straight up". The upper balljoint should be slightly behind the lower if you were to draw a level line from bottom to top. Typically you want between 5 and 7 degrees of caster angle there. Looks closer to zero. Did you make sure the lowers are equal lengths on those long arms? Is the Crossmember tight? As mentioned the drag link and Trac bar at at the wrong angles in relation to each other (draw a straight line between each mount end and compare). Usually not a cause of DW ... But Wil cause bumpsteer and when mixed with poor caster ... What is you Toe-in set to? If it's in too much ... DW especially when other issues are present. This is not an "it's this" kind of problem. Death Wobble, true Death Wobble, is the result of several issues in harmonic, the experience usually starts as a "wiggle" which then shifts into "holy $#*+ mode as it kicks it up a notch and you think you and the cars around you are about to stain the highway red. I've driven with a bad Tracbar before (3/8" of play) and other than some slow steering input response nothing was wrong ... because everything else was still good. Not saying it's not the Tracbar by any means, I AM saying it's more than just that one thing. It can be caused by worn out steering linkage (what shape are this heims in?), or worn balljoint, or a bad bearing, or worn bushings (the uppers cause the most issue there, the lowers are more forgiving). A bad tire can set it off, usually the swaybar isn't an issue, but stranger things have happened (as mentioned above with that drop and the angle it may be exacerbating the problem and helping to create the harmonic. Those sway links are pretty long, you can likely lose the swaybar drops and bring that back closer to normal range again. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I remember that add too, I looked at as a motor swap from day one. Saw no value in an old diesel you couldn't get parts for with a questionable reliability concern. Sean was at his wits end after he got it ... He was trying, and it was fighting him the whole way. Sold to someone down in Victoria a few months back. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

No, the guy above you was pointing our that in 2000 the wranglers changed from using the 1998 and earlier block castings (same as XJ/MJ/YJ/ZJ) to using the later model block casting (mid 99+ WJ/TJ) which had the oil filter boss relocated and the motor mount bosses relocated .... Making them largely incompatible with the earlier mounting patterns you were thinking of. Getting a late model 4.0 is not as simple as you would think. Only the XJ continued to use the earlier blocks until 2001 which were carried 1998 casting dates (like my 2000 XJ). The trans and tcase will work, but that particular block will require a fair bit of "wrangling" to make work. Up to as to whether you want to deal with it, but it won't just drop in. As for electrics, skip that, use your current engine control and treat any new block as just that, a block swap. All XJ/ZJ/MJ/YJ pattern 4.0s still used distributor compatible sensor, so even a 2000 XJ motor with DIS can be retro fitted with HO and Renix distributors. See Cruiser's tips for the run down there. The odd easily overcome hurdle, but nothing like trying to fit a late model TJ or WJ motor in. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I lined mine up by eye, been fine for the last two years. But, I have a 97 pump with the old 88 pulley (the later pulley was hammered). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My MJ is about 2900lbs ... To me that's fairly light, but it's still only 2wd and has little for optional crap, and a few bits have been removed (spare, spare tire winch, load sensing valve, has no A/C, short box). But given the sailcloth like aerodynamics it doesn't take much to get it to move, fought my way home the other night ... But the trees were going sideways so just a wee bit windy. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Hate to be the bearer of bad news then, play will be about the same as stock. The steering system is what it is on these, Eagle pretty much laid our the meat of the issue. My steering box on the XJ is tight, and the WJ knuckles with GM/Dodge truck TRE's didn't really make it any tighter, still drives like a Jeep, not a Honda. The weight issue is the MJ's biggest hurdle, they are pretty damn light. Still, go over everything, and make sure it's good and tight. Just don't expect Ferrari like handling anytime soon is all. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yes. Here's how it gets setup ... This is my current XJ valve on my MJ. Remove the rear load sensing valve and plumbed the rear line straight to the flex hose from frame to axle. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yes, it's n XJ valve. The stock MJ block does not have provisions to be converted at all. But, the stock MJ block does follow the same plumbing aspect. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

We have another thread discussing it here as well. But if you have questions feel free to ask away, I've got ZJ/TJ/Explorer mix rear disks on my 00 XJ's 8.25. As for the prop valve, the one at the front of the MJ is just a simple distribution block. Swap in an XJ/ZJ valve and block to eliminate the load sensing valve at the rear (which handles all the proportioning on an MJ). Otherwise, without a prop valve wet/foul weather braking can get really exciting in a panic situation. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yup, I roll 240km to work and then again going back. Get a good West Coast wind across the Island Highway and it's a fight keeping a lane. I have near no play at the wheel. I get the same reaction with my XJ, and had the same deal with my old Bronco. It's basicly the result of the Superior Aerodynamic Defalcation (snicker, snicker) of the body style in action. It's even more exaggerated in the XJ platform. Kinda like driving down the highway in brick with a sail attached. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

And the layout, Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Here's what I have on the MJ currently, my XJ with discs has the same basic routing pattern, but with the obvious disc at the rear. The juncture at behind the Crossmember was made to allow use of a standard 6' off the shelf brake line. Only the portion from prop valve to that junction is non standard lengths. It is also original to the vehicle and kept because it was in good condition and at the cut point easy to remove/install. The only other original lines are the front brake lines and the rear axle lines. The front were in an oil bath from previous owners lack of maintenance so were rust free. The rear leaf new will leave with the current D35 when the 8.25 goes in so I left them (they also did not crumble in my hands like the rest of the rear circuits did). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

No, the internal cavity isn't drilled out for it. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

If you do that you need to add a proportioning valve. The MJ "valve" under the master is a simple distribution block, and the rear load sensing valve handles the proportioning. Swapping the MJ block for one from a ZJ or XJ solves this. All the lines plumb into the blocks the same. On the XJ/ZJ blocks the "loud sensing" output housed the proportion valve "guts" behind a cap. On the MJ block it's just a pass through with nothing else inside but the shuttle for the brake warning switch. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I had my clutch do the same thing a few months back, only engaged/disengaged at the floor. A new Luk Master was only $50 at Lordco. When I pulled the old master apart the return spring inside had snapped in half and was jamming the mix. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I can get something when I get home after Tuesday night, I work out on the ocean so I'm about 1200km from my vehicles Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I've seen single sheer spindles bend in the past, not the spindles, but at the spot the spindle is welded to. Going double shear help distribute the load more. But in my case we went with bronze bushings and a big arse bolt, simple. Older picture before I added tube flares. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I think the length may have changed at some point but that's about it. When I replaced the stock Tracbar on my MJ the new one pushed the axle over to the passenger side about 1/2". The Moog spec said it cover all years. The taper was the same. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Exactly, when my rear brake line blew behind the fuel tank, I tried replacing the line and the whole system crumbled. Replaced the entirety of the rear brake line with an XJ prop valve (uses the same size machined block) and re-ran a new rear main line (just one this time). This can be done before the disc swap, and when you do the disc swap add ZJ "guts" to the prop valve if needed. My 2000 XJ still has stock guts with WJ fronts and TJ rear discs. Braking locks as it should (fronts lock first with rears trailing and tracking). There was some speculation that later XJ's may have gotten "whatever was on the shelf" which would also explain my lackluster braking pre-swap. Bleed the system at the prop valve first, then start right rear and so on. Be prepared to re-bench the master as well. My MJ's had an XJ prop for about 2yrs now, discs are still on the to do list (after the 8.25 swap). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The dust shield is likely bent. Either bend it accordingly to stop rubbing, or remove it. I generally remove them as they catch rocks and hold mud. That, and as a result they are usually too rusted out to reuse anyway. I've taken both approaches over the years, generally I leave them on only on a street driven vehicle,and remove them on my wheelers. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

How did you pay? Open a dispute with eBay, and with PayPal if that's what you used. Otherwise contact your credit card company to reverse charges if you paid that way. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk