Mark Serva

I've had a couple of with 4 bangers and 4 spds back when they had Twin I-Beams. I got almost 30 mpg on the highway IF I had a canoe on top. And, I carried over a ton a coupld of times yet the front end was floating. Glad to hear, somewhere, a single cab long bed still made. I thought Chevy the last a couple of years ago. I'd buy another Ranger if they went back to I beams. One of the reasons I like the 2wd Comanche as the front end is, essentially, like and I-beam sans the king-pins.

Good point. I like to see truck doing something. A show truck seems like some sort of OxyMoron. However, I do appreciate folks who preserve excellent specimens almost like endangered species. And, if we ever get away for all this useless crap they hang on vehicles, sort of like the crap the put on computer upgrades, maybe somebody would put an old classic back into production. A fantasy, I know.

Well done. Just fixing it up as you use it. Brilliant as a functional restoration. Thanks for sharing it with us!!!

Really good looking job. And kewl to keep it Jeep. Maybe that's a now line: Keep it Jeep. I've got an 86 with the one year bumper and mounts. Got rear ended. I think the delux chrome bumper is restorable yet the mounts were too bent. Am running it all bent down as my police state is full of cameras and they don't seem to get a good pic of my bumper. Still, when I leave the cameras I'll go to your conversion. Well done!!!

I haven't had much luck with LEDs. I have found some don't actuate a blinker/4 way relay so one needs to get relay for LEDs. Some require 2 or 3 pin and some have a grounding wire. All kind of a hassle. Then, of course, I figured out that although LED themselves last 20 to 30,000 hours, the little electronic circuit that runs them is lucky to run as long as a regular GE or Philps incandescent, stock bulb. And, since most of this stuff comes out of China one has to deal with what they should say on their packages: China puts the C in Cuality! I'm going to use up my LEDs, doesn't take long, and go back to incandescent. Keep Jeepin on!

I think it's all been said. However, your first pic look like straight links. Most and my link have and offset bends in them. Still, the anti-sway/roll bar looks too long. Am hoping you can just drill another couple of holes in your after-market brakets. Also, at the risk of stealing your thread--what about just deleting the sway bar entirely? I think it's better off-road. However, if you do much highway, especially lifted you might need it to recover from a death defying swerve.

Not to steal your thread, yet I just got some of the longer ones which are too long--especially as I lowered my anti-sway bar to accomodate yet another part, a radiator, that didn't quite fit. I suspect alot of part houses are pushing the envelope on dimensions and such know we old Jeepers are getting too many parts NLA (no longer available). Not to steal your thread, yet does anybody have a source for shorter links, maybe about 5.25 inches? I have a 1 wheel drive Comanche that only goes off road on gravel yet am thinking of just deleting my front sway bar all together. I drive like an old lady so it doesn't matter much to me. At least until I have to avoid some puke who cuts me off on the highway. Any thoughts for On-Roaders as to deleting a front anti sway or anti roll bar? Thanks!

I've not found a thing. Seems like there would be enough of us out there with Jeeps or S-10s to warrant aftermarket production. If I could get one intact enough to reproduce might be an interesting project for a fabricator making 10 at a time or so. If I took mine off, wouldn't be able to drive the airplane sound around. Maybe somebody here has an expendable Y-Pipe they could share with us or a fabricator. I'm sure a compromise Jeep / Chevy one could be made with just the square flange (for the cat. converter) for the Jeep version. The Chevy S-10 version looks a little shorter without the flange. Easy enough to just saw off after delivery. I suspect both S-10ers and Jeepers would be thrilled to buy, especially something longer lasting an adaptable retrofit. If I could find a NOS one, I'd probably have it chromed of ceramic coated for longevity. Something to consider for the aftermarket, small run folks. Keep on Jeepin' on, Mark

Thanks, will check out the Isuzus since they had same 2.8s. Just hope made better rears than engines.

Have and old Dana on my Comanche with one broken bolt on cover (held together for years with small C-clamp) and no leaks. Yay. Anyway, she's old, maybe 250K miles. 2 WD longbed I need to get up a gravel road. Works 2 out of 3 times if I have the right weight in the bed. Anyway, would like to put some sort of posi or limited slip in. Too old to put a lunchbox aftermarket in there. Love that Toyo rears have that drain plug and I really don't need bullet proof just dependable. Looks like the later IFS are 6 lug. Any suggestions as to Toyo rears that would fit my '86 Comanche, 2WD?

Thanks for responding and posting a pic too!

Sorry to hear one of us had such a bad experience with a rebuilt. I scored a rebuilt and did the swap. Pretty easy peasy yet as I was using bolt-in rubber plugs to fill the sensor holes I didn't need (kept the carb) I sneezed and dropped a little nut down the open engine. Removed it and the oil pan to find the nut stuck up in my cam area. What a PITA! Still have the old Weber aftermarket carb which I tried to rebuild to no avail. Doesn't run so well due to the crappy carb yet in certain speed ranges can really feel the increased power for the 3.4 over the 2.8. Seems GM fixed most of the 2.8 problems with the 3.4 except I used some Pontiac Fiero valve covers (with silicone gaskets) to fix the topside, endemic oil leaking. Guess it's classic GM thinking just fixing the Pontiac versions and letting the rest leak. Also, I made the mistake of not R&Ring the torque converter as it started leaking soon after the engine install. I replaced, cleaned or rebuilt pretty much everything else I could under the hood. Pretty happy with the change, hope to install a new Weber this summer--just don't look forward to the jetting hassles. If I didn't have the Weber already, I'd probable put a simpler Ford or MotorCraft 2100 series carb on instead. Good luck with everybody's swaps!

Not to steal a thread as my dash is in pretty good shape yet I removed a bunch of parts to clean up, change radios and lube some sliders and such. Also, I got a good deal on a factory, NIB, bench seat cover in Burgundy. Of course my interior is baby blue--a color I never liked. I plan to change color to the burgundy all over. Anyway, my point is, I never liked the creaky, plastic 80's dashes. And, I know I'll have to go back into the rats nest at some point to re-vacuum tube and swap the heater core. Am thinking of modding more of a race car dash with shelves instead of glove boxes. I'm pretty good with such things yet wonder if it will kill the collectable value of my Comanche even tho I plan to be buried in it :-) I know Jeeps tend to be modified yet I don't want to ruin this and I plan to not cut any metal--just do a simple off-road sort of dash over the original with a simple toggles and analog guages. What do y'all think? I appreciate your opinions.

When my 2.8 crapped out (Diz siezed and broke my camshaft--first time I've had that) I put in a 3.4. Plenty of help here on that. Had a few hassles yet nothing unexpected. Currently, need to replace my Weber carb, yet other than that engine runs peppy, plenty of torque and seems good on gas. Very pleased. Main thing is to rebalance new flexplate, nothing fancy, just some cutting off weights, rewelding on other side and balancing with lawn mower blade balancer. No high tech or machine shop time. Runs so much smoother it's really nice and no problem getting chevy parts and all cheap. Also, since it's such a tiny v6 I think it's easy to get to everything under the hood, sparks, dizzy, oil filter all easy to get to.

Hoping to. If I can get mine back on the road by then. Hope to be swapping a dead 2.8 for a reman 3.4 next week. It will need a road trip to break it in. Anybody interested in my junked 2.8? Would rather get a little bit than pay all that shipping for the core deposit. If so please tell me and I’ll bring it with me. Do do you know of any camping, more like crash sites, available up there? Thanks mucho, Mark

As my 2wd Comanche has no console notch, I just don't seem to find any, factory sort of quality replacement covers.Tho, if they'd fit or have closer to my light blue color I'd buy those RayBucks. Clearly, the same most of us are experiencing. And, I live in an area where there are almost no automotive upholstery shops so they get away with charging way too much. Has anybody considered, since these are all over ebay for good prices (please don't flame me as this is not a stock option. However, I would keep my bench in hope of finding, someday, a factory seat cover) 2nd row benches as in SUVs and Vans? Seems like some of these that would clear the hump might work. And, I see nice leather ones out of luxury SUVs/Vans that would be comfy. Now, as I max out the adjusters / sliders anyway, just mounting the bench back as far as it will go would be fine with me. Any thoughts?

Wow that's some great feedback and thank you for the tire calculator as well. I know, this is something of a feel it in the pants sort of experience. I really just putter around locally with the occassional trip to the Appalacians. A girlfriend used to push on my leg to go faster so yes, I'm that old guy slowing you down--sorry:) And I'm running 235 75 15s yet will go smaller when they wear out. Otherwise, everything is stock 2.8, 2WD and A904. Have added a couple of electric fans to the radiator and have a flex fan too. Only overheats in the summer or over 75mph. I understand it's geared for the oil embargo for around 55. Runs hot in town too and suffers from vapor lock often. Mostly, I believe due to aftermarket exhaust downpipe running about a half inch from the stainless fuel line. Plan to reroute fuel line in Spring before our hot and humid Summer. I've driven lots of old cars and am used to using the temp guage for speeed instead of the speedometer so that's not so much a problem. However, since I'm doing these swaps in pieces would like to get it set up to use the 3.4 at optimum RPMs for puttering around town, getting up some grades and maintaining 75 for about 2 hours. Otherwise, the average speed where I live (the worst traffic in the USA) is probably about 20mph so it's generally faster to bicycle. Was thinking the 307 rear might work because the 904 seems to be geared so low. Zippy from 0 to 30 and nothing after that. Forgot to count my gears last time I changed gaskets yet I guess a 3.55 was pretty stock with the 904 and 2.8s. And, thinking the 3.4 to come, if I can find one, has about 60 more horses and torque so I might get an okay start with a better finish. 75 is all I need to not get run over on the highway. Thanks again for all the feedback yet hoping somebody had done the same and might share their success for failure before I follow them. Meanwhile, I'll start looking for some of those elusive Danas and Fords people recommend. There's a real shortage of junk yards around here so they get away with some crazy prices for the unknown. I really appreciate all the help and feedback!!! Happy motoring, Mark

Happy New Year! I don't mean to steal this thread yet it's getting a liitle old so maybe you won't mind. Anyway, I am trying to figure out good rear ratios for a 2WD with the anemic 2.8 Chevy v6 and an A904 Trans. It really can't go much over 70 without overheating yet I'd still like it to go up hills. Am running pretty stock tires. As an 86 I wish I had the AMC rear in there yet it appears to be a Dana 35. I go up some gravelly roads okay when dry yet should get a LSD in there for wet days. Also, I'd like to upgrade to a 3.4 as the old oil sprayer is failing. 3.07 seems to tall yet I'd like the highway speed and MPG yet I'm not sure if I could get up a steep hill even with a peppier 3.4. And, I like the A904s, have an extra too, so I'm not swapping my automatic. If anyone can share their experience with this situation I'd appreciate it mucho! Happy motoring, Mark

Thanks for posting--especially for being one of the minority that shows in the header where you are. Not a mudder as I am only a 4x2. Up for camp-outs, swap meets or other events not limited to just Jeeps. Please, y'all keep me in mind if something fun is happnin around the DC Metro area. Thanks again and happy motoring!

Wow, that's an amazing coating on that Comanch. Nice to not have to worry about scratching and such. Thanks for posting your build, etc. Happy motoring, Mark

Have been overheating at low speeds. Have pretty much done everything else. Now, before I cut holes for vents in my hood I'd like to experiment by lifting or raising the hood about an inch at the hinges to see if that is a fix. From what I read that will really decrease my underhood temps if not radiator temps. Problem--only 3 bolts holding the hood on. The one that is missing doesn't appear to have a nut on the other side. Could somebody post what the bolts are secured too? Would like to get the right mounting before I remove as I don't want to waste a volunteer assistants time. Thanks much and Happy Motoring, Mark

1986 MJ 2WD: Am about to pull my bearings, I sure hope they are the old kind with repackable bearings. Anyway, I've been looking thru Hell's Little Half Acre (search engines, parts supply websites and etc) for the requisite dust caps as mine are missing. Looked for those generic ones and the HELP section of parts stores as well as trailer & tractor supply stores. I now have an assortment of dust caps that almost fit. Please somebody help me with a part number or part supplier for these dust caps. Just can't get to repacking till I know I can keep the grease clean after. Any help is much appreciated. Also, yahoo may have deleted my e-mail addy for inactivity so please feel free to email me directly at MServa58@gmail.com. Thanks much and happy holidays! P.S. Do not mean to steal a thread yet it looks like the question was well answered regarding repacking. Thanks again.

Learning stick is easier on a diesel as they are hard to stall. Of course I wouldn't put any weight in there as it has so little power and sounds like it might brake in half. Safe travels. Not to steal your thead, yet for some time I've wanted to put a GM v6 diesel in my otherwise stock MJ. Of course, having a Jeep titled as a Diesel might be a good start for parts and serieal numbers. DMV in most states doesn't care too much about such things as long as the years are close and not too obvious. Except I know CA and some other DMVs seem to be run by Hitler Youth so it might be a problem Good luck with your purchase!

Thanks much for posting all the info. The diagram is very helpful too. Thought about doing it without welding. Cut the plates about 6" longer, fold them (towards the center) at 90 deg. so they would be flush behind the stock bumper. Then cut the same thickness of plate just a little short of the distance between the two mounted 90 deg. plates to allow for the curve of the bend. Mount and clamp behind stock bumper and drill holes thru all three pieces (stock bumper, bakcing plate and mounting plate) to fit my tow bar mounts. All this would avoid perfect alignment as the drill would do that work all at once. Then, mount my stock tow bar mounts which would give me nice clevices or clevi (I'm not too sure :-) for secure use of a tow strap. Anyway, I wrote this idea to a few of the folks selling pre-cut plates on eBay which are similar to your diagram and allow one to butt weld a HD steel bumper. Two responded that they had never heard of such an idea. Thought that odd as I saw them behind RV's for years on the highway and many looked like stock bumpers up front. Only suspect they didn't understand what I was saying OR they were really young. Would be happy to make and post a simple diagram of what I have in mind IF I can figure out how to do so OR if anybody is interested. Maybe my idea is just too simple. Meanwhile, might use your diagram on cardboard and work out a prototype for the right bend. Was hoping to avoid taking off my bumper for prototyping as I park on the street in DC and parking by ear is about as good as it gets around here. Thanks again and happy motoring!

ACE, at least the one in my neighborhood, has been super helpful for nuts and bolts--especially since I have an addiction to replacing everything I can with stainless steel. However, most of their parts for plumbing and electrical are now made in China. As you know China puts the C in Cuality. Anyway, I don't mind paying 50% more at ACE IF they weren't selling the same crap at the big box stores. Sorry for the rant yet my family hardware store closed down on its 100 year anniversary as there seems no surviving USofA's K-Mart philosophy. Thanks for the heads up on that part vendor as my carb linkage is way too light duty for a brake part. Hence why I didn't post it as a solution--just something to avoid yet it seemed like a good idea at the time. Happy Motoring!