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Mark Serva

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About Mark Serva

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    Keeping my MJ roadworthy for as long as possible
  1. Hoping to. If I can get mine back on the road by then. Hope to be swapping a dead 2.8 for a reman 3.4 next week. It will need a road trip to break it in. Anybody interested in my junked 2.8? Would rather get a little bit than pay all that shipping for the core deposit. If so please tell me and I’ll bring it with me. Do do you know of any camping, more like crash sites, available up there? Thanks mucho, Mark
  2. As my 2wd Comanche has no console notch, I just don't seem to find any, factory sort of quality replacement covers.Tho, if they'd fit or have closer to my light blue color I'd buy those RayBucks. Clearly, the same most of us are experiencing. And, I live in an area where there are almost no automotive upholstery shops so they get away with charging way too much. Has anybody considered, since these are all over ebay for good prices (please don't flame me as this is not a stock option. However, I would keep my bench in hope of finding, someday, a factory seat cover) 2nd row benches as in SUVs and Vans? Seems like some of these that would clear the hump might work. And, I see nice leather ones out of luxury SUVs/Vans that would be comfy. Now, as I max out the adjusters / sliders anyway, just mounting the bench back as far as it will go would be fine with me. Any thoughts?
  3. Wow that's some great feedback and thank you for the tire calculator as well. I know, this is something of a feel it in the pants sort of experience. I really just putter around locally with the occassional trip to the Appalacians. A girlfriend used to push on my leg to go faster so yes, I'm that old guy slowing you down--sorry:) And I'm running 235 75 15s yet will go smaller when they wear out. Otherwise, everything is stock 2.8, 2WD and A904. Have added a couple of electric fans to the radiator and have a flex fan too. Only overheats in the summer or over 75mph. I understand it's geared for the oil embargo for around 55. Runs hot in town too and suffers from vapor lock often. Mostly, I believe due to aftermarket exhaust downpipe running about a half inch from the stainless fuel line. Plan to reroute fuel line in Spring before our hot and humid Summer. I've driven lots of old cars and am used to using the temp guage for speeed instead of the speedometer so that's not so much a problem. However, since I'm doing these swaps in pieces would like to get it set up to use the 3.4 at optimum RPMs for puttering around town, getting up some grades and maintaining 75 for about 2 hours. Otherwise, the average speed where I live (the worst traffic in the USA) is probably about 20mph so it's generally faster to bicycle. Was thinking the 307 rear might work because the 904 seems to be geared so low. Zippy from 0 to 30 and nothing after that. Forgot to count my gears last time I changed gaskets yet I guess a 3.55 was pretty stock with the 904 and 2.8s. And, thinking the 3.4 to come, if I can find one, has about 60 more horses and torque so I might get an okay start with a better finish. 75 is all I need to not get run over on the highway. Thanks again for all the feedback yet hoping somebody had done the same and might share their success for failure before I follow them. Meanwhile, I'll start looking for some of those elusive Danas and Fords people recommend. There's a real shortage of junk yards around here so they get away with some crazy prices for the unknown. I really appreciate all the help and feedback!!! Happy motoring, Mark
  4. Happy New Year! I don't mean to steal this thread yet it's getting a liitle old so maybe you won't mind. Anyway, I am trying to figure out good rear ratios for a 2WD with the anemic 2.8 Chevy v6 and an A904 Trans. It really can't go much over 70 without overheating yet I'd still like it to go up hills. Am running pretty stock tires. As an 86 I wish I had the AMC rear in there yet it appears to be a Dana 35. I go up some gravelly roads okay when dry yet should get a LSD in there for wet days. Also, I'd like to upgrade to a 3.4 as the old oil sprayer is failing. 3.07 seems to tall yet I'd like the highway speed and MPG yet I'm not sure if I could get up a steep hill even with a peppier 3.4. And, I like the A904s, have an extra too, so I'm not swapping my automatic. If anyone can share their experience with this situation I'd appreciate it mucho! Happy motoring, Mark
  5. Got the assembly today in the mail. It's perfect. Thank you very much for your patience with my PayPal problems and I look forward to dealing with you again fellow Jeeper! Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!!!
  6. Thanks for listing the jack brackets with thumbscrew. Could I get one set? If so, how do I get you the money. A check (please wait for it to clear) or PayPal is pretty easy for me. What about you? Thanks, Mark
  7. Mark Serva

    MD guys

    Thanks for posting--especially for being one of the minority that shows in the header where you are. Not a mudder as I am only a 4x2. Up for camp-outs, swap meets or other events not limited to just Jeeps. Please, y'all keep me in mind if something fun is happnin around the DC Metro area. Thanks again and happy motoring!
  8. Have a new old stock A904 (without lockup) designed for Postal (DJ5M) Jeeps of 83-84 with AMC2.5L. Believe it will fit the 60 degree v6 GM engine in the later Cherokee and Comanches (TJ and MJ). Might fit the Audi Engine built for the AMC/General Postal Vehicles. Please be sure before you buy. However, the later ones had, I believe, a Torque Converter lock up. This unit does NOT lockup. Does not come with a torque convertor (26 spline) either. Buyer will pay all shipping and packaging costs to seller in advance and the unit will be in Washington, DC (FOB). I will do my best to pack it well and cheap. Probably a plastic tote if shipper agrees. I can deliver it in the DC metro beltway for free, prepaid or $1 per mile outside of the DC Beltway (495). I can send more pics if you wish. Also, I will guarantee this unit for 90 days in a stock application. No days for a hot rod or modified etc. I understand this is a good trans for about 100 to 250HP. Part 5995621
  9. Wow, that's an amazing coating on that Comanch. Nice to not have to worry about scratching and such. Thanks for posting your build, etc. Happy motoring, Mark
  10. Have been overheating at low speeds. Have pretty much done everything else. Now, before I cut holes for vents in my hood I'd like to experiment by lifting or raising the hood about an inch at the hinges to see if that is a fix. From what I read that will really decrease my underhood temps if not radiator temps. Problem--only 3 bolts holding the hood on. The one that is missing doesn't appear to have a nut on the other side. Could somebody post what the bolts are secured too? Would like to get the right mounting before I remove as I don't want to waste a volunteer assistants time. Thanks much and Happy Motoring, Mark
  11. 1986 MJ 2WD: Am about to pull my bearings, I sure hope they are the old kind with repackable bearings. Anyway, I've been looking thru Hell's Little Half Acre (search engines, parts supply websites and etc) for the requisite dust caps as mine are missing. Looked for those generic ones and the HELP section of parts stores as well as trailer & tractor supply stores. I now have an assortment of dust caps that almost fit. Please somebody help me with a part number or part supplier for these dust caps. Just can't get to repacking till I know I can keep the grease clean after. Any help is much appreciated. Also, yahoo may have deleted my e-mail addy for inactivity so please feel free to email me directly at MServa58@gmail.com. Thanks much and happy holidays! P.S. Do not mean to steal a thread yet it looks like the question was well answered regarding repacking. Thanks again.
  12. On those Quick Disconnects with bushings--what are they set up for? Thanks! Please PM me if possible.
  13. Learning stick is easier on a diesel as they are hard to stall. Of course I wouldn't put any weight in there as it has so little power and sounds like it might brake in half. Safe travels. Not to steal your thead, yet for some time I've wanted to put a GM v6 diesel in my otherwise stock MJ. Of course, having a Jeep titled as a Diesel might be a good start for parts and serieal numbers. DMV in most states doesn't care too much about such things as long as the years are close and not too obvious. Except I know CA and some other DMVs seem to be run by Hitler Youth so it might be a problem Good luck with your purchase!
  14. Thanks much for posting all the info. The diagram is very helpful too. Thought about doing it without welding. Cut the plates about 6" longer, fold them (towards the center) at 90 deg. so they would be flush behind the stock bumper. Then cut the same thickness of plate just a little short of the distance between the two mounted 90 deg. plates to allow for the curve of the bend. Mount and clamp behind stock bumper and drill holes thru all three pieces (stock bumper, bakcing plate and mounting plate) to fit my tow bar mounts. All this would avoid perfect alignment as the drill would do that work all at once. Then, mount my stock tow bar mounts which would give me nice clevices or clevi (I'm not too sure :-) for secure use of a tow strap. Anyway, I wrote this idea to a few of the folks selling pre-cut plates on eBay which are similar to your diagram and allow one to butt weld a HD steel bumper. Two responded that they had never heard of such an idea. Thought that odd as I saw them behind RV's for years on the highway and many looked like stock bumpers up front. Only suspect they didn't understand what I was saying OR they were really young. Would be happy to make and post a simple diagram of what I have in mind IF I can figure out how to do so OR if anybody is interested. Maybe my idea is just too simple. Meanwhile, might use your diagram on cardboard and work out a prototype for the right bend. Was hoping to avoid taking off my bumper for prototyping as I park on the street in DC and parking by ear is about as good as it gets around here. Thanks again and happy motoring!
  15. ACE, at least the one in my neighborhood, has been super helpful for nuts and bolts--especially since I have an addiction to replacing everything I can with stainless steel. However, most of their parts for plumbing and electrical are now made in China. As you know China puts the C in Cuality. Anyway, I don't mind paying 50% more at ACE IF they weren't selling the same crap at the big box stores. Sorry for the rant yet my family hardware store closed down on its 100 year anniversary as there seems no surviving USofA's K-Mart philosophy. Thanks for the heads up on that part vendor as my carb linkage is way too light duty for a brake part. Hence why I didn't post it as a solution--just something to avoid yet it seemed like a good idea at the time. Happy Motoring!
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