Strokermjcomanche

Yep, as long as there is a place for the water sensor and the trans lines of it's an automatic

Thanks Troy . The truck had good bones though ...

A little update : Installed all new parking brake cables and gave the whole suspension a good shakedown before it goes to get an alignment in the next couple weeks . Also went and replaced both front turn signal sockets and all the lights are now working besides the reverse lights which I still am trying to locate the problem . Also installed Nicks R.E.M. Unit in the center console ....

I guess no one wants any ?? Which is fine , but don't say I didn't try lol..

It's a bit blurry , but it looks like they're installed wrong . It's supposed to rain , but if it doesn't maybe I'll take some pics of how they should be ..

I've had several people who have pmed me about having more made , I'd like to know how many to order ( plus extras of course) before I make the order. The price will be $30 shipped still ( in the lower 48 ) so let me know . I will ship outside the U.S. , but shipping might be higher . Here's the link to my initial thread to explain what I'm selling and the reviews as well ... http://comancheclub.com/topic/46511-bucket-seat-trim-bezels-now-for-sale-oh/

Ok , I'm going to have more made . They will only be made in black , there is good interior paint (SEM) to paint them to match . I'm going to get a thread started to get an estimate of how many more to have made , so please let me know if you want a pair ... Thanks . http://comancheclub.com/topic/53075-bucket-seat-tilt-bezel-trim-whos-interested-in-buying/?do=findComment&comment=541134

That's sucks , my brother got hail damage on his Honda too .

Check this out too ... https://m.facebook.com/home.php?ref=m_notif&notif_t=feed_comment_reply

Only if someone changed the seat mount. I have not seen one that was put together with bolts from the factory and I've taken out/replaced 20 or so seats. The brackets are attached to the sliders with rivets...and to the OP, be careful, slow and steady taking out the nuts, as they get corroded and rusty and are relatively small (break easy). The brackets ARE riveted to the sliders as you have underlined and you are perfectly correct with that statement . But the OPs question was "can you unbolt the sliders from the seat frame ? Which indeed you can , I will take pictures to prove it ... if I have to.

The seat does unbolt from the sliders 13mm nuts , but you'll have to unbolt the seatbelts and unplug the drivers seatbelt

I meant to take pictures but the timing on this is perfect .http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-NIB-Jeep-Commanche-Stainless-Steel-Ventshade-Kit-/122479539641?hash=item1c845975b9:g:BAUAAOSwnONZC2ay

Thanks Ben !!

:hmm: Supposed to be between 5 and 7 , the one that worked had 10.4 . It's better then throwing random parts and money at it... http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

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I'm striking out on finding OEM ones so I may not have a choice ... Were the cut correctly to fit the floor pans too ? I've seen the Lloyd mats as well .. thanks for the lead

Well it's fixed , was a bad O2 sensor . Started by checking the resistance on the black wire .05 ohms and the voltage to the red wire with the key on and not running .009. Then I cleaned all the grounds again and still no change .Then I figured I would start by swapping the old O2 sensor in , as soon as I swapped it in everything began to read normal . It's now running good in closed loop ( no stumbling ) , switching between rich and lean , the O2 readings are between .1 and 4.98 with them moving at a good rate/speed . Must have been a DOA NTK sensor , and I bought it so long ago I can't return it . I'm going to run this one for now and search for a NOS mopar one . Thanks for all the help everyone . The engine seems to have a little hiccup buts it's very minor , any suggestions on that?

O2 reading never got higher than the 1.52 reading I will check on the voltage , thought it was a red black and grey wire on the sensor . I'll get the resistance tomorrow on the black wire . To clarify , I'm trying to get it running better so I can take it to my buddy so he can go over it at the dealer including the A/f ratio . When I hear the injectors are too small I think it would run lean ( not rich ) , trying to make the injectors be the last thing I need to address ...

This. How long have you had them in? Do you have an A/F meter to see what happens when it goes to closed loop? If you had an HO I'd say invest in an adjustable FP regulator based on the A/F readings. Ive had the 746s since I started it for the first time , ran fine initially when I started it roughly a year an a half ago . It has probably 15 miles on the stroker I purchased .I'm going to take it to my buddy at the dealer that has an A/F meter .

Will look at the IAT reading .., I listed the O2voltage above .39-1.52 746 injectors are too rich ? What should I run then? MAP hose is fine , I have 5 spares as well ..

I never had to search for the clips , mine were all complete . Hornbrod may know as I know he has a pair of mopar ones . I can take a pic of the clips tomorrow if you want me to ,...

I've got three pair of the metal visors / rain guards , some were mopar and some were the ventshade brand . I wouldn't call them rare , but they don't show up often . They are held up with three clips on each side that go in between the window seal and door frame .

Any link to the gm IAT testing ? I'm tired and it's dark , I'll swap a good MAP in tomorrow from my black truck , then the O2 if need be , thanks .

I'm of course not speaking for the seller , but in the description it said it wouldn't let him post it as a good title because it was modified . I personally believe because he listed it as a 98 4 door Comanche ( which doesn't exist of course ) is the reason it's posted that way . He did post pics of the underneath this time ( not bad ) . 4 matching flares ( and door panels ) would definitely help sell that truck IMO . The rear flare is different because 97+ flares don't bolt on to the older bed. The rear door panels are different because they are custom. The rear doors aren't stock, they are custom also. I'm fully aware the flares and door panels are different . With all the other mods done to the truck ,the flares and door panels shouldn't be an issue ( custom rear door panels , bodywork done to the rear flares to make the match the front) . I'm not knocking it , just saying it would make the truck better ..

I'm not sure if the map sensor creates that reading , I can swap one from my other truck if need be .. Coolant sensor seems to be reading right... nothing out of the ordinary. I can get the actual readings IAT , can I test it ? Aren't they discontinued? I have an extra 02 sensor , but it reads 10.4 ohms when I probe the red/black wires ...