Strokermjcomanche

This. How long have you had them in? Do you have an A/F meter to see what happens when it goes to closed loop? If you had an HO I'd say invest in an adjustable FP regulator based on the A/F readings. Ive had the 746s since I started it for the first time , ran fine initially when I started it roughly a year an a half ago . It has probably 15 miles on the stroker I purchased .I'm going to take it to my buddy at the dealer that has an A/F meter .

Will look at the IAT reading .., I listed the O2voltage above .39-1.52 746 injectors are too rich ? What should I run then? MAP hose is fine , I have 5 spares as well ..

I never had to search for the clips , mine were all complete . Hornbrod may know as I know he has a pair of mopar ones . I can take a pic of the clips tomorrow if you want me to ,...

I've got three pair of the metal visors / rain guards , some were mopar and some were the ventshade brand . I wouldn't call them rare , but they don't show up often . They are held up with three clips on each side that go in between the window seal and door frame .

Any link to the gm IAT testing ? I'm tired and it's dark , I'll swap a good MAP in tomorrow from my black truck , then the O2 if need be , thanks .

I'm of course not speaking for the seller , but in the description it said it wouldn't let him post it as a good title because it was modified . I personally believe because he listed it as a 98 4 door Comanche ( which doesn't exist of course ) is the reason it's posted that way . He did post pics of the underneath this time ( not bad ) . 4 matching flares ( and door panels ) would definitely help sell that truck IMO . The rear flare is different because 97+ flares don't bolt on to the older bed. The rear door panels are different because they are custom. The rear doors aren't stock, they are custom also. I'm fully aware the flares and door panels are different . With all the other mods done to the truck ,the flares and door panels shouldn't be an issue ( custom rear door panels , bodywork done to the rear flares to make the match the front) . I'm not knocking it , just saying it would make the truck better ..

I'm not sure if the map sensor creates that reading , I can swap one from my other truck if need be .. Coolant sensor seems to be reading right... nothing out of the ordinary. I can get the actual readings IAT , can I test it ? Aren't they discontinued? I have an extra 02 sensor , but it reads 10.4 ohms when I probe the red/black wires ...

Here's some info...., 90 XJ engine harness (no c101) , 4.7 stroker , std shift , nv3550 , new 746 injectors . 90 manual ECU Here are the engine sensor readings brand etc to eliminate SOME questions : Brand new mopar distributor, plugs , wires , champion plugs ...new mopar high altitude CPS and knock sensor . Fuel pressure 31-39 ( Bosch 69302 pump ) 746 Volvo injectors between 3.6 and 4.2 duty cycle at idle . Engine vacuum 15-19hg TPS (mopar) 17% O2 sensor reads 6.3 ohms ( brand new NTK ) O2 relay voltage 12.9 with engine running Rpm reads between 625-850 at idle Battery voltage 13.8v Exhaust reading rich O2 reading .39 -1.52v Fuel trim128 ( using base fuel curve ) If you need more info let me know ... I have the R.E.M. Monitor that nickintimefilms sells.. Starting the engine cold ,it fires right up and runs great in open loop for roughly 30 seconds and then switches to closed loop . After it switches to closed loop the engine idle drops to 3-400rpm and the engine barely runs and almost dies until the ECU switches back to open loop and then it will run fine for the next 30 seconds and go back to closed loop and repeat the previous symptoms . It will keep doing this until the engine gets warm never going to closed loop . Engine is running rich ... I've cleaned the relays and connectors and swapped the relays as well . The ground that goes to the TPS and IAT Has .07 ohms resistance, too much ? Where should I go from here ?

I'm of course not speaking for the seller , but in the description it said it wouldn't let him post it as a good title because it was modified . I personally believe because he listed it as a 98 4 door Comanche ( which doesn't exist of course ) is the reason it's posted that way . He did post pics of the underneath this time ( not bad ) . 4 matching flares ( and door panels ) would definitely help sell that truck IMO .

It's back up .. http://www.ebay.com/itm/132175269083

It's back .. http://www.ebay.com/itm/132175269083

Anyone?

All those pictures and not one showing how it was put together underneath ... http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=132173083135&category=173526&pm=1&ds=0&t=1493370460696

He mostly sticks to the facebook pages .....

He's a member on here babyblack86

http://m.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1987-1988-1989-1990-Jeep-Cherokee-Comanche-Exhaust-Pipe-Hanger-52003606-dp-/142293448819?hash=item212159b873%3Ag%3AhVwAAOSwx6pYnfhR&_trkparms=pageci%253A5c212f4c-295f-11e7-973d-74dbd1809011%257Cparentrq%253Aa2f385c515b0abc2c67c15c7fffef291%257Ciid%253A8

Sent you an email .....

I have it John , but in 98 it uses a rod for the exhaust mount and the piece you're looking for is also made different . As a whole assembly it should work . I took pics of it but photobucket sucks and is down , I can email you photos if you'd like

I think I have one John , i pulled an ax15 from a 98Xj and I think it's still bolted to it . Once I get home from cutting my moms grass I'll take a look . I know I have one from a nv3550 ( I believe it bolts in the same way) the only difference is where the exhaust goes through is a round steel rod VS the "sad" face bracket lol.

If you paint it tan , every time you scratch the paint(deep enough ) the red is going to show through . Unless you plan on touching it up all the time of stripping the truck down to bare metal / primer , IMO I'd go with the red .

Looking for all 4 ( but I'll settle for the fronts ) for my 93 Cherokee with 49k miles . I tried searching for the factory number , but it's in the accessories catalog which I don't have. I'd prefer new , but I'd consider what you have to offer . I'm not looking for aftermarket btw .Thanks in advance ...

That was one of my thoughts , orsell the rusted Cherokee and use that money towards a drivetrain. I've had the Cherokee since 36k miles and kept up on the maintenance, so I've got some decisions to make ....

Don : I lightly cleaned up the leaf springs and painted everything to prevent it from rusting . If you stick your finger in the frame holes it's clean and no rust present . The exhaust (muffler and tailpipe) were rusty and replaced those with a mopar muffler and walker tailpipe . Still has the original brake lines and the are in good shape ( with the exception of the LF brake line damaged in the accident ) .

Thanks Troy ! The major downfall is the salvage title , it really isn't bad damage at all and I have the mopar fender , bumper and several other parts I acquired from the dealership ( which has more than enough paid for itself ) . It's basically untouched besides the large Yosemite Sam mud flaps and a gimmick corrosion protector . It's clean (not perfect) but clean for 25 years old ....

Everything lined up fine and the axle is centered in the wheel well .