Strokermjcomanche

My understanding is electronic speedo = short Manual speedo = long shaft .

There was ( maybe still is ) a 96 2.5 at the local pull a part that had a good fan shroud . Are they different? I know the 4.0 litre ines never changed....

Those mouldings were sold , time to start adapting or make something to fit .

If you have all the pieces , does it looks like they can be glued back together ? There are some good products out there ( lord fusor , 3m ) that will hold without cracking . Then if you wanted to , put some fiberglass mesh for added strength .

I know this isn't English class and I'm not your teacher , but it's very hard to read / understand what you are saying . Proper punctuation would help out tremendously.... If you're from outside the United States I apologize as the translation may get lost in the mix ..

Because if it isn't broke don't fix it . The OP doesn't want to ruin the good sending unit by cutting it up, so I'm answering in regards to that . The ends of the lines are mushroomed on the sending unit to keep the rubber hose on once its hose clamped on preventing any steel adapter from sliding on . Not to mention if the sending unit was rotted out ( the only reason I see that it would need to be replaced ) the lines would be weak and not hold up to soldering anyhow .

There is no raised portion on the lines coming out of the sending unit that the plastic clip will hold onto. Just out of curiosity, why are you wanting to change to those fittings ? I've never had one leak before...

Yep, as long as there is a place for the water sensor and the trans lines of it's an automatic

Thanks Troy . The truck had good bones though ...

A little update : Installed all new parking brake cables and gave the whole suspension a good shakedown before it goes to get an alignment in the next couple weeks . Also went and replaced both front turn signal sockets and all the lights are now working besides the reverse lights which I still am trying to locate the problem . Also installed Nicks R.E.M. Unit in the center console ....

I guess no one wants any ?? Which is fine , but don't say I didn't try lol..

It's a bit blurry , but it looks like they're installed wrong . It's supposed to rain , but if it doesn't maybe I'll take some pics of how they should be ..

I've had several people who have pmed me about having more made , I'd like to know how many to order ( plus extras of course) before I make the order. The price will be $30 shipped still ( in the lower 48 ) so let me know . I will ship outside the U.S. , but shipping might be higher . Here's the link to my initial thread to explain what I'm selling and the reviews as well ... http://comancheclub.com/topic/46511-bucket-seat-trim-bezels-now-for-sale-oh/

Ok , I'm going to have more made . They will only be made in black , there is good interior paint (SEM) to paint them to match . I'm going to get a thread started to get an estimate of how many more to have made , so please let me know if you want a pair ... Thanks . http://comancheclub.com/topic/53075-bucket-seat-tilt-bezel-trim-whos-interested-in-buying/?do=findComment&comment=541134

That's sucks , my brother got hail damage on his Honda too .

Check this out too ... https://m.facebook.com/home.php?ref=m_notif&notif_t=feed_comment_reply

Only if someone changed the seat mount. I have not seen one that was put together with bolts from the factory and I've taken out/replaced 20 or so seats. The brackets are attached to the sliders with rivets...and to the OP, be careful, slow and steady taking out the nuts, as they get corroded and rusty and are relatively small (break easy). The brackets ARE riveted to the sliders as you have underlined and you are perfectly correct with that statement . But the OPs question was "can you unbolt the sliders from the seat frame ? Which indeed you can , I will take pictures to prove it ... if I have to.

The seat does unbolt from the sliders 13mm nuts , but you'll have to unbolt the seatbelts and unplug the drivers seatbelt

I meant to take pictures but the timing on this is perfect .http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-NIB-Jeep-Commanche-Stainless-Steel-Ventshade-Kit-/122479539641?hash=item1c845975b9:g:BAUAAOSwnONZC2ay

Thanks Ben !!

:hmm: Supposed to be between 5 and 7 , the one that worked had 10.4 . It's better then throwing random parts and money at it... http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

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I'm striking out on finding OEM ones so I may not have a choice ... Were the cut correctly to fit the floor pans too ? I've seen the Lloyd mats as well .. thanks for the lead

Well it's fixed , was a bad O2 sensor . Started by checking the resistance on the black wire .05 ohms and the voltage to the red wire with the key on and not running .009. Then I cleaned all the grounds again and still no change .Then I figured I would start by swapping the old O2 sensor in , as soon as I swapped it in everything began to read normal . It's now running good in closed loop ( no stumbling ) , switching between rich and lean , the O2 readings are between .1 and 4.98 with them moving at a good rate/speed . Must have been a DOA NTK sensor , and I bought it so long ago I can't return it . I'm going to run this one for now and search for a NOS mopar one . Thanks for all the help everyone . The engine seems to have a little hiccup buts it's very minor , any suggestions on that?

O2 reading never got higher than the 1.52 reading I will check on the voltage , thought it was a red black and grey wire on the sensor . I'll get the resistance tomorrow on the black wire . To clarify , I'm trying to get it running better so I can take it to my buddy so he can go over it at the dealer including the A/f ratio . When I hear the injectors are too small I think it would run lean ( not rich ) , trying to make the injectors be the last thing I need to address ...