vaquaro

Next time your buying a new battery for your MJ ( $100-150 ) just think about the Prius guy dropping $4500 for his new battery , hope he saved enough on fuel to cover it ? :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

YIKES ! :agree: The scary thing is this guy is allowed to Vote & Breed :shake: ........I definitely need a drink after watching that video

6 bolts sounds like OEM tow hook bumper brackets . If so , there are also a diagonal braces that also need to be removed to free the bumper . :yes:

:huh???: I thought this topic was about making a MJ "Woodie" , which would be a great :idea:

There is another option ....you can actually paint rather than re-cover the headliner . A low gloss/flat latex sprayed or rolled on for more texture gives a suede-like finish .The bonus is it's washable too :cheers:

I have the same harness , double check your grounds ( try running an extra ground loop ) as the self tapping screws to the body are not always reliable . :thumbsup:

Red or Green ( just pick one ) Red ( ish )= trans fluid Green (ish ) = engine coolant :roll:

:nuts: Is this the same guy who engineered the plastic pipe "Roll Bar " for pick-up beds ? :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

:wrench: Tried the tarp , but the wind just blew the rain straight at me . Got the new rad swapped in then gave the engine a shampoo as it was soaking wet already .Ran the motor for almost an hour then burped the last of the trapped air at the heat sensor . No leaks ,we're good to go :thumbsup:

:agree: I recall the saying " A short-cut is the longest way to anywhere " . I'm going to keep the current set-up as it has worked well for me BUT this time no thru-fasteners . I can easily fab up top & bottom brackets bolted to the header supports ( with lock-tite this time ). My punishment for m m ing it the first time , is to do it in the pouring rain forecast for tomorrow ( cruel , but fair ) as I have no garage . :thwak:

:headpop: Mystery solved ,sort of , I now have a visible leak ! Coolant now dripping from rad core . The plastic push-thru fasteners for my flex-o-lite aux. fan have worn through one of the rad tubes . I did fab up support brackets for the fan housing (top) so the weight was off the core but also used the thru-rad fasteners as well . Seems a bolt from the bracket went AWOL . :wall: The new cap I just installed (13lb) created enough extra pressure to lead me to the source....Oh joy , I guess the fix is going to easier then tearing off the cyl. head at least . ...I think it's "Miller time" :thumbsup: , off to the pub I go

Headgasket :( What's the best way to confirm that ?

Headgasket :(

Found coolant overflow tank empty :eek: and rad low as well . No visible leakage or trace , checked oil dipstick for "milkshake" , and ccv tubes , and air box breather inlet as well . I obviously topped up the coolant and added a new rad cap as well . Been running engine and checking for leaks every 10-15 min. , so far , Nada ! Also searched the area under the heater as well . :dunno: ( 90 , 2.5- 4 popper ) The weather here has been below freezing (minus 5-12 C ) for the last 2 weeks , haven't noticed difference in heat gauge readings other than being slower getting to operating temp. for obvious reasons .

:popcorn: :clapping:

Great color , looks fantastic :thumbsup:

:wavey: Welcome to CC . Any post with pictures attract us like flies :thumbsup:

I have an older Lowrance , The worst voice instructions ever . :yes: I always turn it on coming home late at night/ early morning to stop from dozing off ......The voice is so annoying , you couldn't possibly sleep . :rant:

:agree:

:clapping: Nice truck , I'm jealous :thumbsup:

And for the same reason I find it difficult to understand why people get so upset when you ask for the reasoning behind something. You stated you didn't want to do something, but gave no details as to why until asked. Then you criticism them for asking why. Maybe the question was asked for a reason so we can give you a better response as to what will work best in your wants/needs/desires. Maybe some of us have been there and are simply trying to offer advice (isn't that what you asked for?) before you spend money on something that you may/may not be happy with. I simply was just asking why you wanted to keep with a sealed beam headlight. Regardless of if I think a H4 type conversion is better or not I was just curious as to the reasoning you had behind not wanting to convert. I see no need to ask a question on a public forum to begin with if your not willing to get different responses. -Adam But my question asked specifically what sealed beam replacement is brightest. That leaves the field open to "Sylvania Silver Star" or "GE Super Dazzler" or whatever else might be out there in sealed beams. Discussion of H4 conversions when the question clearly stipulates sealed beams is not helpful, it's off topic. I know the intention is good ... but the result is not helpful. It's like when someone comes on a gun board and wants to know what would be a good revolver for his wife's first gun, and fifty people immediately suggest a Glock. What difference does it make WHY I want to stick with sealed beams, or why so-and-so's wife wants a revolver? It's a parameter of the question; the reason is immaterial. :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

At last :thumbsup:

Waiting...... :yes:

Just do the plug and play harness ( $20 ) . You will exceed the Silverstars performance . .......But I'm with those who clearly see (at night ) the Hella E-codes are the way to go :thumbsup: ( yes , I read your question . ) :cheers:

:idea: I use a "Flex-o-lite" pusher ( aux. fan ) with a thermo-couple (inserted into the rad fins ) and adjustable temp.control wired direct thru a relay to the battery . The system has worked flawlessly for 3 years . :thumbsup: