vaquaro

Some pics and specs ( yr. , drive train etc.)on your MJ will help members give you advice on your project :thumbsup:

Must be Vancouver B.C. , don't think Van. WA has " Skytrain " money pit rapid transit system :shake:

:agree: "-Brake- lites" ,check these common failure areas :#1 worn sleeve bushings ( where switch attaches to pedal -shim or replace ) ,#2 ground ( behind L. tail-light -, sand,clean & tighten ) ,#3 bulbs and/or sockets :wrench:

Personally , I think moving the license plate to the drivers side of the bumper and " chrome in a can " for the trellis would greatly improve the "WOW " factor :jump:

Shoulder bolts are only used with RTV formed in place gasket .If you use a pre-formed gasket , do not use shoulder bolts . 1/4"x20 flange head works fine . Could be a good time to change over to Aluminum valve cover :wrench:

Go for the original ......Hakapalita aka Nokian .... the Finns were the first to make "snow " tires , check out their Rally selection :thumbsup:

Sounds logical to me :cheers:

Dang ! that's a beauty .....good on ya mate :thumbsup:

Thanks , I won't even ask for details on "punishment " . :teehee:

Any body care to explain this ? ......I apparently have zero ......so if I get 2 , my truck gets impounded ? :eek:

6 Miller , 6 Dos Equi , 2 Rickards Red , 3 Guiness , & three fingers of Famous Grouse .....Now it's all clear to me .... :cheers:

cuz I need one after trying to find my way around "new & improved"

Going to check this out tomorrow , http://victoria.en.craigslist.ca/cto/3206438322.html '87 wagoneer on Vancouver Island . Price has been dropped to $1900 ( km.to miles = 100k ) It's old enough in B.C. to qualify for collector plates , which means cheap insurance ( 50% ) and Emissions exempt . :thumbsup:

:popcorn: Thanks for sharing :clapping:

It is September 8 ,2012 ? ....I can't find the " Comanche of the Month " for Sept.'12 ... :( I know I'm old but now I'm confused as well :hmm:

If the backing board is still reasonably good :idea: There's an easy fix : remove the cloth (toss it ) , Brush all the crap off the board , give it a light spray of acrylic ( Fusion ), sand lightly . Then apply matte finish acrylic enamel with a foam mini roller . Let it dry & re-install . Your done ! (and its washable ) :thumbsup:

Initial high rev on start up is normal ,but should drop back quickly . Try the simple stuff first : vacuum leaks - intake/exhaust manifold bolts , TB bolts/gasket , vac lines for cracks or loose fit at connections ( Clamp or replace ). :cheers:

:wavey: Welcome , you are obviously not a stranger to the Jeep world . :cheers:

No luck on after-market dealers ( Crown , Omix-ada etc. ) Getting by using a shim between the switch and push-rod sleeve ....It works :yes: but still would rather source or fab up some proper bushings to do the job right :wrench: Good suggestion :thumbsup: :cheers:

"Softopper" in Colorado makes a unit for MJ shortbox :thumbsup:

:headpop: Jeep/ Chrysler no longer stocking Bushing # J321 5922 ( 2 req. ) that fits sleeve thru rod end ( to booster ). The sleeve holds the brake light switch which in turn bolts onto the brake pedal . Problem is , when the bushing (plastic ) wears down the brake lights don't work until the pedal is completely bottomed out . :eek: In traffic this is just asking for a rear-end collision every time you slow down , so I've been hitting the hazard switch instead . :shake: Anybody here have any home-made fixes for this bushing replacement :help:

:waving: Thanks guys , I'll check out those links . The original I downloaded from CC was 88 FSM from one of the Mopar guys from here .My wife reminded me we lost a lot of data when our computer crashed ( and burned ) last year . :cheers:

:???: Anybody got the link to the FSM , I guess I lost my copy (erased) :doh:

:wrench: The rear dif. photo , your brake /load proportioning arm is in the wrong orientation .Bar/arm from valve mounted on the frame should be horizontal and the rod from the dif. vertical . Just saying :cheers:

That would be a " Remuda " addition I believe :yes: