vaquaro

:wrench: Riveted brake shoes / pads the only way to go :yes: :yes: :yes:

The molding is pretty much the same (or close as dammit ) as after-market , so it should be readily available @ J.C. Whitney or simular FWIW

:clapping: By the time he called them all to say goodnight , it would be morning , He'd have to start all over again :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

:bowdown: Thanks Pete :D

Thanks Pete , Here's the image code :D Album " Walkabout 2012 " image # 13 ( Photobucket -Vaquaro )

Try adjusting the switch ( lower column ) , loosen bolts , with key set to accessory ,move switch up/down until accessories (radio ? ) comes on . Tighten bolts :cheers:

:doh: All of a sudden , I can't transfer/submit a photo from Photobucket (IMG code ) to my profile / avatar :huh???: Keeps saying "invalid URL "

:agree: This ain't no dress rehearsal , this is real life , Love it , Live it . They say getting older ain't for sissies .......Cowboy Up ! :cheers:

:clapping: Congrats to a fellow Okanagan-ite ( I was born in Penticton ) . CC made a great choice by picking a not so average member :cheers:

First...go with an upgrade harness with relays ( eauto.com ) to eliminate voltage loss from thin wires carrying full load all the way from H/L switch to the lights . It's plug and play simple and the results are excellent . Along with Hella E-codes and standard H-4 bulbs you will have daylight any time you want :thumbsup:

:D I tend to lean to the Left myself , I think it's a west-coast thing , being on the left side of the map and all ......

" RENIX " powered :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

:( Thanks cruiser , I thought the same thing but was paranoid about MJ electrical gremlins unknown to me . On the positive side , I might as well get the alternator re-wound to 100 amp + at the same time :yes: :cheers: Gord

This has never happened before :???: Volt meter suddenly dives , blib the throttle brings it back to normal for a while . The belt is not loose . Also on one occasion , there was soft click sounds ( about 30 sec. apart ) coming from the starter area with the hood open and ignition off . I'm not sure these symptoms are related ? So your opinions / experience is welcomed .....Alternator failing ?.....Short in starter or wiring ? :shake:

Thanks for the info sir :bowdown: So I do need to pull the column apart! Darn! :wrench: :no: The H/L dimmer is actuated by a rod from the column stalk ( sig & hi /lo beam ) . If you look at the upper end of the switch you will see 2 rods entering same , click the hi/lo to see which rod moves ( that's the dimmer )and insure it's attached correctly ( sometimes they will pop out , in which case you won't need a new switch ) The Haynes Manual describes how to adjust the switch if you have to loosen or remove it to re-attach the actuator rod ( late advise; mark the switch position before loosening )In my case I found a couple of wires going into the connector blocks had come un-crimped causing intermittent failures FWIW . So the next part is easy ' lay on your back , with your head under the dash ( light helps ) looking up at the steering column on e-brake side , flick the hi/lo stalk ........Well you get the idea :cheers: edit: So I was thinking "Why did the switch fail?" and then I remembered I've got 4 x 3W marker lights for the camper spliced into the rear light wiring. Using my skool math that means I'm putting 1 amp more than standard through that circuit. So question for my techy CC friends - Is an extra amp on that circuit enough to burn out the switch contacts? I wouldn't have thought so! Anyways, they still work, along with all the other lights, just the dip beams are awol? Any input gratefully received :thumbsup: Double edit: Anyone have a photo of the switch?

Dimmer / Ignition switch available @ Gemini Jeep from the Crown catalog on line . ( also Burnaby or Langley stores ) It's not a terribly hard swap , just remove the knee panel for clearer access to column . :yes:

OK thanks :-) are those sender units bolt in too? Or will I need to modify them? :wrench: No mods required , just remove and replace with new gauge sender units from dealer :thumbsup:

88-90 XJ is direct swap . You will also need to replace Oil & Temp senders which are gauge specific :thumbsup:

Just one at the curb ,....2 beer =2 MJ ....3beer=3MJ ......4beer= 6MJ ........short nap + 2 beer = 12 empties No MJ ? :doh:

:agree: also check manifold bolts for correct torque (lock-tite green ) and oil leaks from valve cover (rear) flowing into CPS (ESS) on bellhousing ( remove , clean , inspect for melted insulation ) My $.02 :thumbsup:

Doing back-country excursions in a MJ is not for the faint of heart :shake: :wrench: I always carry a full tool kit :thumbsup: Although it seems your not out of smart-phone reception , which in B.C. means your less than 10 km off a main hiway

:yes: It's the mother lode ( if your loaded ) :brows:

Congratulations ! your one of the 10 percent who can actually spell "brakes" :thumbsup:

Here after 450k km I thought our beloved 4 bangers were self healing , next you'll be telling me there's no such thing as everlasting love :doh: :jump:

I love dogs , I respect cats . !!!