vaquaro

:popcorn: :clapping:

:idea: I realized it had been awhile since I checked the manifold bolts ( thanks to your post ) YUP they were loose as well , tightened for now but next weekend new gaskets ,lock-tite , and re-torque :thumbsup:

:thumbsup: Did you ever think the learning curve on our trucks is actually a vertical line ??? :cheers:

here's a link for you http://widetrackdrive.com/temp/mj/tach-pot.jpg :cheers: That's a good photo. The potentiometer is the part labeled "J103C" :wrench: Adjusting / setting the tachometer ; Before completely installing the new gauge pod , remove the speedometer from the pod ( screws on back side ) , plug in wiring harness while pod is just resting in dash opening . This will give you access to the tach adjusting screw ( while engine is running ) . Hook up a hand-held tach to the smaller (yellow) terminal under the hood between the battery and the firewall on the right side fender . Start the engine , adjust the new tach to match RPM of hand-held tach . Re-install speedo , and complete gauge pod into the dash . Hook up speedo cable , install new oil & temperaure senders if you have'nt done so already . :cheers:

here's a link for you http://widetrackdrive.com/temp/mj/tach-pot.jpg :cheers:

The 2.5 is notorious for oil leaks from the plastic valve cover , down the bell housing and into the opening for the ESS ( aka : crank sensor ) which is also has vunerable wires running very close the exhaust . ( Melted insulation ) Often pulling the sensor , cleaning it and the wire connector block will cure the problem . ( also a nomex sleeve over the wires is a good preventive mod ) While your at it , check all the grounds , Firewall to block , cluster at dip-stick bracket to block , battery . This should ensure the ECU is receiving reliable info & fire consistently . :cheers:

:headpop: Gremlins , welcome to to MJ world

:yes: We all need one ....Eventually :cheers:

Looking good :thumbsup:

:shake: Hoarders ? :jump:

:eek: I'm speechless

:wrench: Track Bar , Don't go the bushing replacement route :wall: Napa has complete assembly , reasonably priced :thumbsup:

" Chrysler " blue , Duplicolor / Plasticoat engine enamel over Fusion plastic primer :thumbsup:

I see an Eliminator , sans rear window appearing soon :brows:

Give it a try , can't see it causing any major problems + if the leak stops / or not , you've narrowed down your search :thumbsup:

I have a Softopper , didn't buy it for looks . It is the best mod I've made to my MJ , very practical , it folds down in a minute for over size hauling ,and the best part is you can do it by your self unlike hard toppers and no storage issues . :thumbsup:

Hey Shawn , were you able to trace/ repair your mystery leak ? The thread got hi-jacked ......Gord :cheers:

NOPE....Read the replies A: 88-90 cluster for correct speedo connection B : Temp. & Oil sensors need to be replaced C: Adjust the tach as previously advised :thwak:

:wrench: Adjusting the tach ; remove the clear plastic , remove the speedo to gain access to the adjuster pot screw on backside of tach , use a handheld tach for reference , turn screw to match RPM 's while running . Re-assemble and your done :thumbsup:

Ignition switch at lower left side of steering column probably needs to be re-adjusted . Write-up in Haynes or use search , only 2 screws to loosen , then slide swich up or down while key is in "accessory" position . Also check that actuator rod moves freely inside the column from the switch to key/lock assembly cam . :cheers:

:agree:

:huh???: Guns are tools , I used to carry them and use them as required in my work looking after the the herd against preditors and such , otherwise they have no place in my world . Nuff said :cheers:

:thumbsup: Just buy it , or I will :cheers:

I had the same leak on my 2.5 , replaced the rear(exit) hose and found a crack on the nipple that's screwed into the manifold and another crack on the heater valve . Replaced both ,and got the proper molded (oem) hose . :wrench: A tip is to use Factory spring clamps , as its easy to over tighten gear clamps and distort the plastic heater valve/switch . :thumbsup:

:thumbsup: