vaquaro

Getting 22.5 mpg ( GPS corrected ) combined city/hiway . 2.5 /AX4 /3.55/ 235-75 x 15 .( 500 lb H2O in Sure-Trax bag )

Did you notice its right hand drive ,which probably goes well with them left handed cigarettes they're smokin' :nuts:

Will do :thumbsup:

Who cares about idle? The purpose of a tachometer is to tell you when to shift. You need it to be accurate in the range where you normally drive. I don't know any way to get it right other than to calibrate it against a known-good tachometer. Thanx Eagle , you and cowboss Al would get along well ...I will do it properly as you suggest :yes: .....I did try one more short-cut though,ran it down the hiway at 104 kph ( 65 mph ) in 4th ,tach read 3100 rpm . Thats fairly close I think ,so idle is a little high @ 13-1500 rpm , but its been the same for 2 years since I originally installed the gauge pod . :cheers:

:ack: O.K. I've been all thru this thread & the 2.5 gauge pod swap one as well ....I swapped a 89 Eliminator pod into my 90 2.5 ax4 2wd .I knew the reading was off by about 1/3 ,idle varies between 700-1000 , although it sounded faster . Sooo I tried the adjustment suggesting "turn screw full left for 4 cyl. ".......WRONG :headpop:( idle now reads under 500 ) Pull the whole freekin' pod apart again , try turning screw full right ( idle now at 1250-1300 ) Have no idea if thats correct ? Of coarse , I never bothered to calibrate with a hand-held tach for reference :dunce: ( when I worked for the O.K. Ranch , cowboss Al would always tell me a Short-cut was the longest way anywhere )....The delema now is ,if the reading IS correct , what do I do to get the idle to a reasonable range ? :hmm:

Looks like it's got good bones , and you've got a couple doners , now all you need is time and money . I'll be lookin' forward to your build thread . :thumbsup:

You did put the re-inforcing coil back in the new hose....right ? :shake:

I know the nights are very long up there .....If the rad leaks , the supplier will replace it ( NAPA ,CTC ,Lordco ) ,I've never heard of anyone having the warranty refused for "stray current " issues ?? :hmm: .....I'm bettin' you plug-in the block heater every day ....just food for thought :roll:

" SURE-TRAK " in bed water bladder works like a hot damn (or frozen ) , with decent tires its the next best thing to 4x4 ! :D :thumbsup:

Welcome , we,re all nuts about MJ s , lotsa help availible , enjoy ! :cheers:

This may not be the same .....re: wire bundle ....But recently went thru simular " no brake lites " , While replacing the b/l switch , I noticed alot of play in the actuator rod bushing ( the new switch didn't cure the no-brake lite problem ) so I wrapped the insert (metal) with teflon tape until the plastic bushing was a snug fit .....Brake lites work fine now :thumbsup: ...New bushing ordered & I guess I have another un-needed part (b/l switch ) in my toolbox :dunce:

Are you guys having a " Bad Hare day " ?.....There are some famous people who keep Bunnies for pets , like " Hef " for instance . :chillin:

If the head-liner board is in good shape you can paint it with acrylic-latex (brush works best ). Just remove the board , soft brush & vacuum off old glue residue / foam backer , lite coat of paint , once tacky fill any cracks with more paint. Dry thoroughly , lite sand ,tack wipe & apply finish coat . It's a cheap easy fix that will only take you an afternoon to complete , the result looks like vinyl and is very durable ( mine's lasted 5 yrs. so far ) :D

I bought the same rad last summer , it's actually more efficient than the 2 row types . Mine cost $ 160 , you got a good deal :thumbsup:

I'm new here , but I'm finding this to be a much better site for MJ topics than JF . The rules seem fair to me . Happy to be aboard (even bought the T-shirt ) :Canadaflag: :thumbsup:

I'm new here , but I'm finding this to be a much better site for MJ topics than JF . The rules seem fair to me . Happy to be aboard (even bought the T-shirt ) :Canadaflag: :thumbsup: