Comanche County

If he withheld information then you'd be in the right to file a case against him. CO has a law where the seller is responsible for any repairs for the vehicle if it doesn't pass emissions or has safety issues.

There should be an adjustment nut on the gearbox. If you've got slack in the steering and you've narrowed it down to the gear box, then it usually only takes a 1/4 or 1/2 turn to feel an improvement.

This is great! I could've sworn I saw Robert Stack talking about a 4.0 on Unsolved Mysteries a while back.

Chainsaws and Comanches, a pair made in heaven. :thumbsup:

All it takes is one, there are some truckers that are running super high illegal outputs...if they're pushing enough power and if they're close to you, they can fry your radio just by keying the mic.

As far as radios go,,,get one with illuminated dials and a backlit display. It stinks to knock your settings off by turning the wrong dial at night. You can't go wrong with a Cobra 29 series, but don't get the blue tooth model, they're junk. They have a 6 pin mic connector and they really give a crappy sound. You'll want a good ole' 4 pin mic. Galaxy also makes a darn fine radio. Seems a toss up among the trucker crowd between Galaxy and the Cobras, kinda like Ford and Chevy. You want a radio that can be peaked and tuned. The FCC regs limit output to a measly 4 watts. That's good enough to talk around the block. Any CB shop can peak a decent radio to 15-20 watts, or add an amplifier to give about 100-150 watts. The handhelds and miniature CBs have their place, but if you wanna talk more than a few hundred yards, you'll need a full size radio that's been set free from the FCC's ridiculous output limits.

Lil Wil magnetic base whip. I get great reception with mounting in through the slider up on the roof...it just plops over if I bang it off a tree branch. Its best for transmitting and recieving to have it as high as possible. Its also good for up to 300 watts, I'm pushing about 100.

That's around JY price. But its very common, maybe offer $75 to start off and go up from there.

Just do the work yourself and you'll save a bunch of money. Its really not that difficult to do replace a clutch, slave and master cylinder. There's no special tools required, but you might need a pilot bearing puller. Getting a mangled pilot bearing or bushing out can be frustrating but with determination and patience you'll get r' done. The master cylinder is simple, it will gravity bleed, then a few pumps of the clutch pedal with a helper underneath and you'll have it bled. The rest is just unbolting parts and bolting it back on. The aggravating part is stabbing the transmission by yourself. But the 4speed isn't that heavy, neither is a BA10 or an AX15. You can do it. It just takes a bit of muscle and the right leverage. Don't throw away a wheel barrow full of money, you can do the same quality job that a shop can do....its hard to screw it up so just dive right in. Be glad its not an auto, they're heavier and getting soaked in ATF isn't fun....but overall they're easy too.

If its the same company probably so...Rommel has been on a couple of the 2A/3A boards to get consumer feedback on his products. Classic Enterprises also sells everything like that too, kinda pricey though. If you want the raised letters Sam, its probably cheaper just to work in a cut out from an old hood or tailgate. http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/mdjuan-tubs_topic27368.html?KW=rommel http://cj3apage.com/forum-yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1361112894

I'd consider WJ crossover steering and knuckles, brakes the works.... To go OTK with the stock inverted Y set up...you need to raise the axle end of the track bar, or lower frame end of the track bar mount to match the change in the angle of the drag link you will have some bump steer issues. You can get knuckle inserts from goferit offroad, weld em in, then you must use a flipped export drag link because the stock drag link won't clear the axle when you flip it. http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm http://www.jeep4x4center.com/tie-rod-with-right-hand-drive-52006582.html?utm_source=cj

Hey Elmer, I couldn't watch the video, do you work with Rommel at MDJuan?

Yeah welcome to the club, so happy to see you're here. It would be heartbreaking to see an indifferent owner drive it into the ground and junk it.

Looks great!

This.... The headliner practically snugs up against the roof and there's really not much room to add brackets.

Yeah, 95' F350 rear links will fit and they're about 2" longer IIRC. I've used them before, they're cheap and any local auto parts store should have them. With the stud (stock) style links, they ought to be close to perpendicular in relation to the sway bar or the link's studs will end up bending as the suspension cycles. If you're up to a little fab, you can relocate the sway bar forward some so the ends of the sway bars aren't hitting the coils. Another option is to get some RE sway bar relocation brackets which pull the sway bar forward and downward about 2". I might be wrong, but I don't think they'll fit with a front skid plate. I've got a pair laying around, will trade for beer.

Its never been in a wreck AFAIK, the car is straight as can be. Not ruling out a cut-off switch, but I've read there's a signal that comes from the instrument cluster too? :dunno: I hate feeling my way through a problem. I'll pull the BCM from the same car tomorrow, keeping my fingers crossed. Whatever happens, we'll be in the black. She was given the car...I've put about $400 into it in parts and towing (had to rent a dolly and tow it 150 mi). A few weeks ago before I even touched it, I put it up on CL for $750 w/o a title and all the donk drivers were calling me around the clock. I had at least 25 calls on it and more texts and emails. So we decided to get the title and fix it and get a little more out of it. We've got the title now, so if I can get it going I think $1,500 is the minimum I'd take. Either way, it'll sell and we'll make a profit.

Well, the resistor trick didn't work. I'm gonna try a different BCM, after that I think I'll be done with it.

Welcome aboard!

After it quits raining I'll go out and try the relearn procedure again. It takes a normal key. It isn't the VATS style key with the resistor in it, so there's nothing really to clean. I'm familiar with VATS, had an issue with it in a Caddy DeVille once, that was a pain too.

I like it. :thumbsup:

To clarify, the security light is on solidly if I turn it to "on" after having it off for 5 seconds or more. But when I put the key back in and crank it for a few seconds then it turns off completely. I'm pulling my hair out.

Put a new ignition cylinder (jy) in this morning. The security light was blinking when I put it in but I did the 10 min relearn procedure and now the security light is off, but it still won't start.

Yup, I'm coining a new catch phrase: "You've been Pass Locked". Gotta do this now: http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml

Gogmorgo, you might be right,,,could be the passlock.