Comanche County

I confirmed the MAF was working in the proper voltage range 0-5v with some tubing and a human powered vacuum pump. The gas gauge was accurate displaying about 2-3 gallons left in the tank, minus about a pint that soaked into my shirt. I removed the pump again but this time it didn't fire up when I benched tested it. So got a new one, put it in....and same thing. It tries to start with starter fluid but dies. So spark and air is good. The fuel relay is confirmed, its getting power with the key in the "on" position. I jumped the 30 and 87 terminals where the relay plugs in and it doesn't turn the pump on with the key in the "on" position. But, I don't know if its only supposed to get power in the "start" position. For some reason the pump isn't getting told to turn on, the connectors to the pump do show 5v with the key in the on position though. Ignition components are all tested good, fuel control sensors are all tested good or new, the darn thing just isn't getting fuel. I'm thinking the ECM isn't telling it to turn on, or some sort of fusible link is out somewhere? :dunno: Thanks for the help fellas.

The only code I'm getting is 0170. Changed the CPS this morning...still won't start.

Haha, good job. If you want more work out of em, just promise them an MJ of their own provided they show they can maintain one properly. Then you get a few years of free labor out of em. Might as well throw some yard work in the mix too.

Been fiddling with this thing all day. I'm leaning toward the CPS, although the resistance checks out when measured directly, but when measuring voltage throughput when cranking, I get nothing. I've also read that the coolant temp sensor can cause a no start. I think I hate this car.

Good advice guys... I took the entire coil pack housing with coils underneath and swapped a couple of ICMs onto it. A couple of the black tabs on the plug boots were broken...I'm gonna try zip tying them like freeman has pictured.

Most auto part stores have over sized drain plugs just for this reason. Most are for oil pan plugs but I'd bet there's an over sized plug that will stop the leak for a transmission pan.

I know we've got someone who might be able to advise me... I'm trying to flip a 2001 Grand Am and I can't get the thing to start. The GF was driving it but it just up and quit. It cranks over fine. Yesterday it sputtered like it was going to start. Today, nothing. It sounds like its getting fire, I can hear it when cranking it over but it doesn't start up. I thought it was the fuel pump so I had a helper turn the key on while I was underneath it. Couldn't hear it turn on so I pulled it. But it bench tested just fine. So I followed the steps on this site: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ign_quad_4/quad_four_module_1.php. It says if the ICM is bad it won't trigger the pump to turn on. But the ICM and the CPS check out good. I installed new plugs and a JY coil pack from a wrecked Grand Am. I assume the coil pack is good - considering it was running when wrecked. Also tried 2 other ICMs. I get nada. Only thing I haven't replaced is the spark plug boots which reside under the coil pack. Appreciate any advice.

Seems like the spammers are after the MJOTM thread lately. Good job keeping them off here.

Yup, Detroit and several other cities are good examples of the "tyranny of majority rule". Its why we have a Republic vs a Democracy of majority rule. We have separate branches of govt and an electoral college. If majority rule was the law, Obama could easily be elected El Presidente for life.

Thanks!

They'd be a great upgrade for wider axles on a little flat fender though.

You can run 15" wheels on 60s but it will require some wider wheel spacers to get the wheels off the brake calipers. 1.5-2". Tire size is a good starting point for a build, but your tire size determines the required axle strength and gearing. You're may run out of money in gears and lockers before its done. But since you're running a SBC and especially if you go with the 700r4 then you won't need crazy low gear ratios in a relatively light weight MJ...even with larger tires. Some 4.11 geared late 70s F150 axles would work, that is if you don't mind running the ford radius arms. Our very on Pete M runs them and they work great. Your next logical donor is 77.5'-79' F250 or F350 axles and a front leaf conversion, then you'd have to hack together some steering but it would be a solid build. Lincoln lock the rear axle and you're in business!

The steering wheel only goes on one way. Like Jim said, there's a single large spline that keys in the steering wheel. Older cars let you adjust it by removing and turning the wheel...my old mustangs were like that. It was a bad idea anyway because you could end up with lopsided steering like Eagle said. But on MJs, you adjust it as mentioned with the adjustment sleeve on the drag link. Don't expect a shop to do it for you. Most likely it will take a few tries to get it perfect which requires at least a few short drives around the block to see if the wheel is straight. Most shops want you in and out as quickly as possible and won't do that. A computerized alignment rack will get it close, perfectly straight sometimes but not always. Align it yourself with a tape measure for toe and an angle finder for caster. Adjust the caster with shims behind the LCAs. Toe it in 1/8" and you need about 5-7* of positive caster (imagine the line running through the upper and lower ball joints like the rake of a motorcycle front fork, but steeper). The lower ball joint should be forward of the upper, just barely. Don't worry about camber unless your axle is bent. Only offset ball joints will adjust camber.

I might be mistaken but I thought it was NPT threads. Whatever thread it is, its readily available. Take it down to a Grainger store or look in the Grainger or McMaster/Carr catalogs or websites. Or, any decent machine shop could weld a properly threaded bung on to the header for you and not blow your wallet up. $20-40 bucks probably.

There should be a single 10mm bolt in the middle of the firewall connector. Its kinda hidden, just use a 1/4" ratchet and 3" extension to get to it. Remove it and you should be able to shimmy the connector apart.

Look down the throttle body and see if there's oil and carbon build up. Clean that out with some TB cleaner. Pull the IAC and the TPS and clean those. But don't fiddle or pull on the IAC plunger when you have it out. Just spray it and lightly wipe off any build up. Also ensure the smaller vacuum line coming off the back of the valve cover isn't clogged. Pull it off and blow through it. If its clogged, spray it and run a piece of weed eater string through it to clean it out. Then take it for a test drive and see if there's an improvement. Also check the condition of the dizzy cap and rotor and the plugs. and a good read is Crusier's Renix tips here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/

Yup, for years I used Penzoil. Probably from watching the Unsers...anyway I thought that kind of build up was normal. That was a while back before synthetics came around. Maybe I'm just biased against them but now, no penzoil product touches my engines anymore.

Nathen, mind throwing up a shot of your steering set up?

This truck is put together right!

Keep in mind that for every one of us on CC.com or another Jeep related forum there are at least 10 or more other MJ owners out there who don't value the trucks as much as us and really don't care if this happens.

I really, really want to agree but I think if one of the new Grands went slumming for an Aztec, the offspring would still be beautiful. That's how far the rest of the automotive world lags behind the new Grands. Nothing in the luxury 4x4 world, or the rest of the high end SUV market can even come close to the new Grand Cherokees. Porsche, Land Rover, Lexus, no one....Whether we like it or not, they are the pinnacle of the Jeep brand off road and on...and no, the Rubicon doesn't even come close. Go to a dealership and sit in a new Overland model. They're beyond impressive in every metric.

I ran 3" Rancho coils once upon a time. They rode hard, had I kept them, I'm sure my tailbone would still be hurting. Might as well just go get some old F150 coils from a JY and get the same bone jarring ride and 4" of lift for far less money. Also, 52088363 springs are ZJ V8 UC springs. They'll give a 4.0 MJ/XJ about 2" of lift maybe a tad more or less depending on vehicle weight and fatigue of the springs. This is a good read on the UC package, I used it as a guide and put a complete UC package minus the tow hooks on my 5.9 ZJ: http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/techarticles/zj-upcoupgrade.html All Orvis models came with the UC package, if an Orvis ZJ has a V8, then it has 52088363 springs. Like MJ taillights and other MJ specific parts, 52088363 springs are must pulls when I see them in a yard. You'll be surprised at how many springs still have a readable factory paper tag on them. If you want UC springs, keep an eye out for Tow Hooks and Skid Plates, they're an indicator that the ZJ is probably a UC model. Also check here for more P/Us....http://comancheclub.com/topic/26007-ultimate-oem-spring-rates-and-codes-chart/?hl=spring+rates

Funny you mention Nick Rowe, he was one of my heroes when I was a cadet/LT. I have his POW memoir on my shelves somewhere. I discovered his book when I did my thesis on Bataan and POWs in the Pacific Theater. He's the father of SERE school and a fellow Texan. :thumbsup:

Oh, and we should appreciate the older guys who bring wisdom to the world,,, when they can remember it. :yes:

Tried that, my manly muscle bound barrel of chest won't fit through the window, nor will my big ole' beer gut. But a high lift handle will and its easy to manipulate the unlock button.