87Warrior

That must be a Renix era thing. My 92's VIN plate is a metallic color. It also had the barcode in the doors.

:agree: Cleanest way to go about it.

Looks like a good project with a good direction. But I have to ask. Why install those auxiliary harbor freight gauges? It would be much simpler and cleaner to install a full cluster. Not to mention cheaper! Just some food for thought for you.

Me too! I am having serious MJ driving withdrawals. Watching your rig tackle Moab doesn't help all that much :ack: Truth be told, seeing your truck with the shiny beadlocks sold me on trying out polished Moabs. I think it will be a nice, clean, addition to the truck. I will be pulling apart the motor and transmission this weekend along with the motor accessories in preparation for my discussion with the machine shop / builder.

Beware, if you just hacked out some of the back door wiring your electric locks and windows won't work. The XJ has a crazy cross over harness for those. I would double check your grounds and that the fuel pump is actually getting power. IIRC, the fuel pump ground on the XJ was near the rear seat on the driver side.

:dunce: Aww man. I had hopes that the civic had a giant turbo and ran 11s or 12s down the 1/4.

I will be building my motor for my truck. I am looking for more usable power in the 1K to 3K rpm range. Using a 99XJ block, this is my current plan: - Stock 4.0L Crank and Rods - Comp Cam 68-321-4 Camshaft - Sealed Power Pistons 0.030" over Compression Ratio: 8.95:1 Dynamic Compression Ratio: 7.77:1 Quench: 0.051" Head Head Gasket: Fel-Pro 0.051" Camshaft: COMP Cam 68-231-4 Lifters: 822-12 Valve Springs: Mopar High Performance P5249464 - Retainers: Mopar High Performance P4452032 - Locks: Mopar High Performance P4529218 Ford 19lb or SRT4 Injectors Banks Header I will be contacting my machine shop to talk about my plans next week to see what he thinks.

Good work. What's your estimated resale value going to be? I ask 1/2 interested since my wife used to want one but is now wanting a diesel pickup. If its too good to pass up, you never know...

Welcome! Where are you employed? I'm sure we would love to have another parts contact! It looks like you do great work. Any MJ you get will be in good hands I'd say. Good luck. And watch out for floor board rust!

Thanks guys. My arms are sore after sanding only 2 of the spokes. It is going to take a while to get four of these done :help: Oh well, its not like my truck is going anywhere anytime real fast.

Having not done much to the truck lately I decided to start working on a project I have been putting off, mostly due to the fact I didn't know what to do. A few year ago I picked up a set of 5 TJ Rubi Moab wheels, for CHEAP. These things were trashed. They looked like the previous owner sprayed acid on them and let it sit for 3 weeks. I decided to try and see if I could save one of the wheels. Sandblasted with used 40/60 Black Diamond Even after blasting the wheel the finish was very irregular I attacked the wheel with sand paper. 80, 120, 180, 400, 1500 then 2000 wet sanding. Quick polish with harbor freight white and red bars and some Mothers Mag polish My plan is to polish the flat face of the spokes and bead then use a finer media to texture the inner edges and lips. Clean it up real good then shoot with clear. Comanche is going to get some *bling*

Sounds/looks like a good meal Rob! But I have to ask. Do you only experiment on your grill when its nice out!?!? Some of my best smoked BBQ has come from 105 degree, miserable days. I just can't seem to get it the same during a bout of nice weather.

Check out the POR15 website. Even if you don't use their product, most of the tank cleaning and prep instructions would pertain to you.

:wrench: Way to get at it! Good work.

Looks great! What gun did you use to spray the different layers?

I really like Dons set up utilizing two factory auxiliary fans and shrouds with Spal running the main replacement fan. Hopefully he will join in on this thread to provide his feedback on the set up.

With that route, it seems your drive shafts would be the new weak link. You might want to get new shafts made for the 60 swap. Turning 1 ton axles with 1/2 ton shafts doesn't seem like it would be the best set up. And more for my curiosity than anything, will a front XJ shaft mount to a D300 case? Also, I have not even considered swapping full widths in my truck, so my understanding of the swap has been from casual reading and discussion from a few buddies doing the 60/70 swaps in their TJs.

What about driveshafts?

I foresee somebody building a patriot with a V6, 5speed, real Tcase and solid axles! Ok, maybe that is just what I want to do to one of those things. :D

What is the purpose of your truck? How do you wheel? I say you will end up with well over 2K in swapping axles. Lots of hidden costs lurking. I also say don't do the swap unless you get heels with deep backspace. I don't like the look of wide wheel stance on the MJ or XJ.

The fan will only come on at the 230 degree mark with the AC off. You may want to consider wiring it to a manual on/off switch. Search the site and you will find out how to do it while retaining the relay functions. I ran my truck all summer with the fan turned on.

It could be low on freon. The ac system has a low freon switch that will keep the compessor from spinning as well as a whole host of other things. I would see about getting the system charged.

While you contemplate your options, you can remove the leather wrap from your wheel and clean all of the tar goop off. The wheel should be a white version of the non wrapped Jeep wheel. I did this in my truck for the same reason. At least you could drive the truck in nice clothing and not worry about trashing them.

Hopefully they are just making room for a new Jeep pickup.

I am not sure if this is true, but my buddy was telling me some of the newer Mustangs have an e-brake set up that actually twists the caliper/pads into the rotor. I would imagine something like that would be easier to adapt than the drum-in-hat e-brake system.