87Warrior

35's and 4.11 gears on a DD won't be a lot of fun. I put up with that combo for less than 3k miles before I regeared my TJ.

I'd like to burn my yard, but my fire fighting rig (ATV) is out of commission waiting on a new oil cooler. Hope I can get it repaired before the county bans pasture burning :crossfingers:

:doh: :fs2: :thumbsup:

Absolutely!

I wonder who is the better driver, Skinner or Jim?

I don't think Jeep will ever build a car. Sure, some Jeeps these days my utilize car technology but I don't see them building an actual car. I think the Renegade is as close as Jeep will get to a car.

Do NOT buy the Classic 2 Current/C2C floor pans. They have very little metal up the tunnel and fit like a square in a round hole. They also have no formed edges and seem to be built using a basic brake. That said, you will never find an MJ specific floor pan. Yes, some vendors advertise their pans for an MJ, but if you cross reference the parts numbers, they are the same for an XJ. A quality XJ front floor pan will fit pretty well, yet will have the issues as you approach the seat mounting area.

Plan to have no money....and enjoy every broke moment! Welcome to the club.

Welcome! She is a beauty. What are your plans for the truck? Gurantee I could find rust on there. My 'rust free' '92 ended up costing me more in body work than what I purchased the truck for.

With the assistance from my father, the two of us managed to load, transport and unload my freshly painted long bed. Removing the tailgate helps. I did notice the short bed felt much lighter than the long bed.... Had a buddy help me lift it on the the '86. Maybe it had something to do with the fact I really didn't mind if it got bumped....

Two of the last three trips to Colorado resulted in the rear trackbar/UCA bracket becoming separated from the axle. I have had a guy in Gunnison weld it, then a fellow in South Fork. I finally decided to pull the axle and get it done right. While I was replacing the upper control arm brackets and the trackbar bracket, I also picked up a set of the Clayton shock relocation brackets. Trackbar bracket is vertical with the pinion @ 19°

Like the JeepXJ-R?http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1094822

Deals are out there. I was lucky enough to pick up my like new SCX10 from craigslist for $150. Included battery, weighted wheels and scale swampers. It had only been run a few times. The truck wasn't a good competition crawler so the guy wanted it gone. Image Not Found

This truck is very clean. Nice find Ben. I have never understood the point of building a drift vehicle though. Something built for the track, street, or strip makes much more sense to me.

I loved my Wolverine. Had the cable operated front axle disconnect. The Wolverine 350 is a great lightweight, 4wd, ATV. My father bought one new in '95 and was my introduction to ATV riding. He still has this ATV and it has the original motor. I have been through several different ATV's, but my Wolverine is the only one I kept around. I have thought about adding the 424, but I never could tell much of a difference in handling between my old Warrior and the Wolverine.

Those are some massive logs! Making a table? Oh, nice truck :thumbsup:

I have a 2000 Yamaha Wolverine. Image Not Found It is not a good rock crawler. Image Not Found Can't believe it is already 14 years old. I don't ride it much any more. Less than 10 hours in the last 5 year's. I used to ride at the School Creek ORV park at Milford Lake, but lately it has just been around pastures while fire fighting. Also used to race MX in Marion and Lyndon with a Yamaha Blaster, never could beat a Honda 250r....

I am still very much a newb, even though I have had my rig for almost 4 years. :dunno: Check out RC Crawler Just was with the full size rigs, you will learn a ton by reading various truck builds. The MJ body fits perfectly on the Axial SCX10 so you will find a lot of relevant information in the scale rigs forum. February 2014 August 2013

Can't go wrong with Spidertrax!Five years and 45k miles, I haven't had an issue on my TJ. I do remove them each summer before I drive to wheel the Rockies. Clean the studs of remaining loc tite, clean spacer and rotor mounting surface, reinstall with new loc tite, and torque to 110ft/lbs. It's not rocket science....

The toe should be identical on the passenger and driver side. I'm guessing the shop didn't get the truck on the rack correctly. In regards to the tierod and TRE's, that is baffling. I can't help but wonder if the draglink's tierod mounting point was placed too far up from the manufacture. This would position the tierod further to the driver side.

I assume you are referring to what I call the 'frame caps.' I have never seen these for sale, but you can remove them.

Depends on what you want... You can get a stock, ready to run, Axial SCX10 for around $300. Add $50 for the MJ body and paint. Actually, a factory SCX10 is dang capable and rock solid. Drive it until you feel the need to upgrade. Winches, scale accessories, aluminum steering, aluminum suspension, shocks, driveshafts, LiPo batteries, ESC, motor, axles, knuckles, etc. It could easily exceed $1000, but whose counting?

It's also expensive. These little trucks look innocent, but they will steal greenbacks just like the full size!

Brush Beaters are a good group of wheelers! Even went down to Joplin after the tornado to help one pick through his house. I am going to welding this weekend instead of wheeling. Got to get my TJ put back together. Have fun up there!

Just take it down to your local muffler shop and tell them what you want. I took my 86 2.5 to the muffler house, told the owner I needed new tail pipe from the manifold to the bumper and wanted a stock type muffler, no cat. Cost was about $150. I could not have piece together a system with off the shelf parts for that. It has a low pitched grumble with no obnoxious popping noises. I have never understood why some folks spend big $$ on exhaust for a stock Jeep motor.