87Warrior

I've always admired Toyota's. This is my first. You can fit a 33 stock....but I'm going to be reasonable and stick with a 31/32. It is my DD now and the fuel economy isn't that wonderful. I am going to go with Cooper ATW's for it. They seem like the perfect tire for my use and I was planning on getting them for the WK before it made me mad. I have discovered a few things about this Toyota. First, OEM parts are expensive. Second, no local parts stores stock air filters or cabin filters. Third, it has two FM antennas. One one the passenger fender and one in the back side window. I have ordered a new touch screen radio I can link to my smartphone. Going this route seems more reasonable vs a Nav unit since my phone nav updates regularly. Hopefully the installation goes smoothly. I also pulled the running boards. That really cleaned up the side profile of the truck. I noticed it kind of drove like a boat and had a good clunk so I started poking around. Turn out both front swaybar links are broken. I have replacements on the way and plan to mount them with lynch pins so I can have disconnects. Apparently they are just as useful for IFS trucks. I also plan to twist up the torsion bars a little to reduce the forward rake.

Best of luck!

I run Zerex GO5 in my Jeeps. It is equivalent to the extended life coolant found in factory fills from Mopar. I'd rather have a 5 year coolant fill than the basic green that is only a 2 year coolant.

My Jeep fleet has been tainted with rice... Actually, I feel really good about it. This Toyota is the replacement for my 06 Grand Cherokee that upset me with its failed 4wd system. This Toyota went into 4wd Lo without issue. Wahoo! Just picked up this 100 Series. 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser - One owner - 246k miles - Timing Belt done at 211k - Diff Lock (rear locker) - Small patch of fender rust It needs new tires and a serious interior deep cleaning. This was a smokers vehicle so I am going to pull the seats and shampoo the carpet and headliner. Now the fun begins!

Thanks for the information. I sure thought that looked like a Pacesetter. I've stripped and painted one as well, but for my 4.0.

Nice build. What header are you using? Any clearance problems with the AMC intake manifold?

First - That is the heater bypass valve. It's intended purpose is to bypass the heater core when the heat is off. This part is prone to failure and was eliminated in later years. I removed my valve after it left me without heat on a long drive. Second - The 'big thing' is the charcoal canister. It is located just below that heater bypass valve. The purge signal is a small contraption located on the passenger fender well near the coil/ignition control module. Third - There should be a hard vacuum line coming through the firewall near the heater bypass valve. This feeds from the line coming from the vacuum ball. You won't find these vacuum lines on the emissions diagram posted.

If you have searched the forum about rockers, you have seen my reports (disgust) with the C2C junk. In a nutshell, they are the wrong size with the wrong bends and the wrong bend radii to match the factory rockers. Here is an image of C2C MJ rockers. Per the direction of my body shop guy, I ordered rockers listed for the MJ from Sherman. Here is one next to the JCR bumper. I cannot speak to their ease of installation as I do not have those kind of skills. But, my body shop was far happier with the Sherman part fitment than the C2C. I can say that the C2C part profile is visually different than the factory rocker profile.

I will grab a set of brackets for you on Sunday AM. I have to get to my storage shed before the morning sun thaws the mud and access is impossible. Cost will be whatever the smallest flat rate box the brackets will fit in plus $5.

I have a few junk bench seats I'd be willing to pull the brackets off of. Do you want the 4 individual floor brackets, or the floor brackets still attached to the seat sliders?

X2 I love this truck!

I would stop with 31" tires. You do not need a lift to fit 31's, but 2-3" of lift will give the truck a finished appearance.

$300 for a rust free rolling chassis and bed!?!? That is a great buy and a great base to build upon.

Shane - you can pull the Engine, Transmission and Transfercase as one whole unit. Use an engine load leveler front to rear and it is very easy to pull with the radiator and front header panel removed. I generally use the front and rear bolts with studs on either end of the head and the passenger side motor mount as my chain up locations. Has work well for the 6 times I've pulled and installed a 4.0/trans/case combo.

To get 3" of lift using your stock leaf springs, your best option is a shackle lift and an Add-a-leaf. I used coils for the front of my truck that netted about 3" of lift and accompanied them with Chevy drop shackles and a cut down 2wd MJ main leaf AAL for the rear. The AAL didn't give me the buck board feeling that most folks claim the AAL will give you. It's also full length going almost eye to eye.

You don't have to agree to the adjusters conclusion. It's your truck, you have a right to keep it and keep driving it. Talk with the adjuster when they come. Explain why the truck is important to you. Just make sure the police report is accurate before you get to far with the insurance folks. My father hit a pizza delivery guy who bolted across 4 lanes of traffic with his 93 XJ. It was a faded out 2 door that suffered significant damage to the front end. They ended up giving him $3,500 to repair the $3,000 Jeep.

Awhile back there was an interesting post to the Comanche Lover's Facebook page regarding a fuel tank and sending unit swap. The post suggests you can use a XJ sending unit assembly in a replacement fuel tank WITHOUT the slosh pan. Even though the XJ sending unit wouldn't be quite long enough to reach the bottom of the tank leaving a few unused gallons of fuel, it seems like a solid idea. I would personally worry about the pump running dry without the slosh pan, but a couple Walbro pickups placed in the tank would fix that. And it is working for one of our own:

2.5 is just as reliable as the 4.0! Do not turn down a nice MJ because it has the 2.5. If you don't happen to love the 2.5, a 4.0 swap isn't very difficult and is well documented. My 86 2.5l truck is quite a trustworthy rig. It did just as well as my 4.0 TJ and and an XJ have powering over mountain passes in Colorado. The 2.5 obviously won't have the same grunt as a 4.0, but it still does great and is totally worth exploring as a power plant. Here is my 185k mile 2.5 on Black Bear Pass.

The truck sure is looking fancy! Nice work, very clean. The new tires and Moabs really set it off. I hope you have better luck with the U Turn than I did. Even with the newest version, it would eat those Moog TREs on the draglink. Then the knuckle brackets wallowed when I torqued the TREs and ORO wouldn't sell me replacements. Now I've got an expensive pile of metal/aluminum in the corner since I went back to V8 ZJ stuff for now.

Hmmm, must be a trend in which I am not familiar. Just guessing, but I assume the front end is stock while the rear bumper drags the ground?

I need to buy a steering box seal. I want to buy a 100 series Toyota.

Beautiful!

I really wanted the ORS when he first started selling them. He had a great thread going on pirate with several happy customers. Then....he just vanished. I wanted the bumper to act as a hidden winch mount. My plan was to mount the stock bumper in front of the ORS. I actually talked to the owner in 2012 (or 2013) about my plan and he thought it would work well if I ordered without the D ring mounts. When I was ready to order communication stopped. I too hate the 'TV tray' look most XJ/MJ winch bumpers have. I think Rustys now has a bumper that puts the winch under the radiator.

Been there done that. Don't reuse the clips. Buy the cheapest u joint you can, take the clips from that box and throw the cheap u joint in the scrap metal pile.

I've driven my MJ in NE. Does that count?