87Warrior

:bowdown: VERY NICE! :bowdown: The work you have done looks fantastic. Your truck is turning out great. What type of paint did you use on the axle tubes and differential housing? I really like how it looks.

:clapping: Sweet deal! The Clymers is absolutely amazing. Had to fire my Wolverine up this weekend to pull my MJ shell around the yard. It had sat for over a year. Took me three tries with the start button and about 10 minutes of high idle for it to run smooth as butter :yes:

The dash isn't to hard to pull. It is held in by 2 15mm bolts near the kick panels and a few 10mm bolts along the windshield under the defrost bezel. Also unbolt the steering column to make room and make sure the wiring is all disconnected as well as the HVAC vacuum lines.

Now THAT is cool

Technically, they are right. But in reality they are wrong. Q-tec does not advertise them as NOS. I would eat the freight and burn the bridge. I haven't ordered from them in a LONG time because of their outrageous shipping charges. But I have had good luck in the past, ended up with a free front bumper for my TJ due to their shipping mistake.

Thanks for the comments guys. :typing: Yes, I am building this truck to be driven everyday. If it was to be a weekend warrior or trailer queen I would not be putting this much work into it since it wouldn't be exposed to the harsh life on the road. Whenever the paint shop gets a space opened up, it will be on its way. He will weld in the floors and paint the truck and I will start the engine work. I will drive this truck everyday and will take it camping/wheeling as often as possible. It will be turning 4.10 hears with a 30/31" tire, so I am seriously considering the 3" Hellcreek lift. If not that, maybe some Chevy drop shackles and V8 ZJ springs with an extra isolater pad.

Congratulations man. That is quite the accomplishment! Way to go. I am sure it will be honor to serve your country! :Canadaflag:

I am sorry, but I think this thread just turned into a Jeep bashing thread. That is ridiculous. I absolutly love the XJ and MJ, but to say they are far superior to all other Jeeps is nuts. In stock trim there is not a perfect Jeep. They all have something another doesn't. The TJ Rubi has front and rear 44s with lockers, the Liberty could have a Diesel, the MJ has a character all in its own with pay load capacity, etc... Stock for stock, there is no way my MJ could do what my TJ could do on the trail. It would be physically impossible. When it comes to wheeling a built rig, the capability of the Jeep is limited by the driver. A professional crawler could take a mildly modified Jeep much further down a trail than the guy, with more money than brains, who had a shop build his rig and only 'wheeled' it on wet dirt roads. Yes, I have been out wheeled by somebody in a lesser built Jeep. They also had 10+ years of wheeling experience on me. Some trails are just better suited for a rig of a certain wheelbase. If a trail is primarily used by Wranglers, it will be more challenging for them since all of the ruts will be suited for that rig. Try the same line with a longer XJ and it should be much easier. I am installing TJ parts in my MJ. Is that forbidden?

No real exiting updates. For the last couple of weeks I have been preparing the inner frame for POR15, cutting out the floors and sanding the POR on the frame for Tie-Coat and Top-Coat. Ordered the outer rockers and floor pans from Classic to Current: Cut out the floors: I used the spray gun that came with the U-Pol raptor liner kit and attached the3M Rust Fighter-I Application Wand,a flexible wand for the 3M Rust kit, to spray the POR. *note: the wand does not thread securely to the U-Pol gun, so I wrapped the threads several times with Teflon tape* It came out very fine and sparse, so it took awhile to coat the inside of the frame rails but had nearly no waste. Also figured out that plain turpentine does a great job cleaning up POR15. Getting close!!!

I know it! All cloudy and rainy. Very disappointing.

Man, that is a thing of beauty. They always look better in the sun light. Also, I think you just made a sale for Tom. Your truck sits perfect! Time to call HellCreek.

What is a Comanche? It's a Jeep. It's a Lifestyle. Not many folks get that. But those that do aren't afraid to let you know it.

I installed 2 of the Autozone Timkins on my TJ last year. They were not as tight as I would have liked, but felt better than their house brand units.

Please post lots of pictures. Particularly of the sides, back, mounts and how it looks on your truck. I think I really want one but can't find any other pictures.

:waving: Why the lack of posting? I managed to sand blast the 'frame' and apply a coat of POR15. Got the inner frame rails cleaned and treated last weekend so I will be spraying POR15 inside the frame this weekend. :ack:

Search for a dealer called 'NCY Yamaha' and call them with your parts needs. I think they are out of California. Then ask for a discount. Some 7 years ago when I was rebuilding the warrior I was buying a lot of dealer only parts and NCY would give a discount if asked for. OEM ATV parts are really expensive.

Glad to see you are in good spirits. It took me awhile to find the file I have been working with, but here it is. It is far from done:

Best Manual for ATVs I found back in the day: http://www.clymer.com/Book.aspx?bid=610 ... +1987-2004 Be sure to pull out the pilot jet, idle air screw and main (needle) jet and soak 'em then blow them clean. You have to clean every orifice too. It might be wise to just replace the main jet and needle due to wear. Short of random carb cleanings and re-jetting for Colorado, my machine has been trouble free. Granted I haven't taken it out much in the last 4 years... Father and Son: Image Not Found

First things first. PULL THE CARB!!!! A gummed/plugged up carb has always been the root of running problems in my father's '95 and my '00 350 Wolverines. They share the same top-end and much of the bottom end as the Big Bear and Warrior. The carbs are extraordinarily easy to clean and tune. I can get one removed, tore down, cleaned and reinstalled within 30 minutes. Also pull the fuel petcock out of the tank and clean the straw filters followed by an air filter cleaning. Those 2-valve Yamaha 350s are hard to kill. I rebuilt an '87 Warrior (hence the screen name) but before I did the work I got it running on the stock, abused, 15 year old motor. It smoked, but ran.

Cool work. Just the other day I was wondering where you had been. I've been working on my own cartooned MJ, in photoshop, not paint :typing:

Yeah, those things look terrible. For the cost of that kit + accessories, they could have built a 'Brute'.

You should be fine with a bench. I hauled 3 in my truck several times. While it is certainly cozy, it is bearable as long as you are not trying to shove 3 linebackers in the cab. I like having a bench so much, I will be installing one from a Dakota as part of my build up.

You really need the whole rig. Checkout Ryan's build (1990 Rebirth), JeepCo's (utilitarian build), and shelbyluv's (onyx). You can also follow mine, but its not running. Short list of what you will need: Heater and AC box Aluminum dash sub-frame Interior wiring harness Interior fuse panel Engine harness with PDC PCM All engine sensors Fuel pump and sender Dome light (FOB receiver) and wiring back to main harness AW4 brain if an auto Being a 2000 it will have a cam sensor in place of the dizzy and coil packs. You will also need: Coil rail Camshaft position sensor Head Intake and exhaust manifold Throttle body Its also a good idea to get the whole rig for mrsurements sake to get holes cut in the firewall correctly since not much is the same shape or in the same location. That an buying everything separately would cost a fortune and would take forever to obtain the right parts. Then it would be a guessing game to get it put together.

Cab corners Inner Rocker Panel All wiring harness Rubber bed mat Brake proportioning valve Cab vents

Yup, bought it that way