yxmj

I have a fan control set up that allows the fan to be turned on and off by a thermo switch that can be overridden by a manual switch that will keep it on or off as long as you like. I have never had an over heating problem with this set up. But to answer part of your question. the fan would not stay on until the battery dies. it would shut off once the temp near the switch reaches its active range......I would note that the engine itself would still be hotter than the area the fan is cooling as with no water flow the fan is just cooling the rad directly in front of it....you would get some residual effect on the block from the moving air. Side note****I just drove a 92 2.5 YJ with the above set-up 5500 kms (about 3500 miles) from Manitoba to the west coast though the Rockies and 8 of the top 10 mountain passes in Canada. On my set up i put a LED on the dash that tells me when the thermo switch turns the fan on.....daytime temps were in the high 80's in some spots ....on my trip it only turned on twice....Both times in heavy traffic of big cities....never came on on the highway or even with day to day driving. This was only a one fan set up...with my 4.0 i have a second fan that is just manual no trigger switch. On all I use a trigger switch out of a 90's vette that comes on at 210.

If you only need an inch or so....all obvious jokes aside..... See if you can get your hands on some grand Cherokee V8 coils that might level you out...or in a pinch track down used ZJ XJ MJ coil isolators and stack them up...this will allow you to go up in increments of about 5/8" to get it to the height you want. As for the spacers I have run both store bought urethane and home made steel....both did the job well

Just for info...is it an auto trans....maybe it is just a cracked flex plate

Check /change the water pump before any other "fixes. An easy check is to remove the heater hose that comes right off the pump by the upper rad hose...use that hose (or another spare chunk) and run it from the pump into a milk jug or other container...if you have no thermostat when you start it you will get a strong stream off the pump....a weak stream....a trickle...or no flow will tell you for sure.... I have 3 XJ's of the same era an 2 of them have gone therough new pumps inside of 4 years... Just MHO . :MJ 1: .

Up to you but you could hunt down another ecm and piece together a harness :dunno: If I am not mistaken that will be a coil pack set up so you would need the ecm for that ( or change it to a dizzy).... I guess it depends on what "free and easy" parts you have at your disposal :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

I do like the Idea of having the wife test drive in case the steering is bad....Smart man :thumbsup: (maybe a little extra rider on the insurance as well... :brows: )

I do not know what the guy above is talking about.....but.... :dunno: Make sure you get the harness and the ecm....it is definitely something that can be (and has been) done. Your main problem will be getting the harness (the electronics) to play nice without having to change too much. (I think the guy above thinks a wrangler is a WJ)

Take the top off your clutch reservoir...fill the fluid to the correct level ...have a helper press the pedal to the floor ....... release and to the floor again...observe the fluid in the reservoir...does it go up or down? Do you see any bubbles?

That's the way I was taught and always done it. Well since it did not work for the OP...maybe he needs to try a different approach... While your googleing speed bleeder...Google Einsteins definition of insanity .... . :MJ 1: .

With all do respect I have never heard of a pump 3-5 time and open the bleeder method.... :hmm: Remove reservoir top and fill with correct fluid... Starting at your farthest brake ( usually passenger rear) open the bleeder have a helper push the pedal to the floor and hold it.....close the bleeder....have helper let pedal up....open bleeder...have helper push pedal to floor and hold....close bleeder....let pedal up Repeat this until when open and you push the pedal you get a strong stream of clear fluid ( a chunk of hose and a clear pop bottle can be helpful here to save the mess) Once you get a strong clear stream tighten bleeder (with the pedal down) and move on to the next fartherst one....keep checking that your reservoir is full....after the last one let it sit for about 15 min (smoke em if you got em) with the top off the res...then fill it up and you are good to go... For you unsociable ones out there who have no friends to help them google "speed bleeders" . :MJ 1: .

If you can clarify your question.. There are only 2 gears involved with the starter....the gear on the starter itself (change the starter) and the ring gear (flex plate) that the starter gear turns to turn the motor (pull the trans off to change)....sorry no rack and pinion involved... :dunno: Sorry...read that the first time on my phone and did not read the first part correct......just ignore

From what you said about it rolling in park my next guess is something is totally sheared off (even if the trans was blown it would still lock up in park) can you put it on 4 jackstands and engage the t-case and see if the front and back drive shafts turn?

Trans has decided it is time to go....even if the fluid is red on the stick you might have to drop the pan to see the sparkles it left you as a parting gift....

The size of the motor (even if you change it) has no link to the tank and gauge....if the tank and gauge are the original.....any miss-reading would be related to either the sending unit or the gauge itself.....

Just my opinion but rebuilding seems to be an extream to fix an overheating problem....flush the system change your T-stat and maybe your water pump first...that would be under $100 if you do it yourself....then you can drive it while you make a decision on a 4.0 :dunno:

I was recently in a machine shop full of SB chev products. I noticed they had nice little Box/supports that they set the blocks on to store them and to allow them to move them around sitting on the floor. Has anybody got pics or dimensions of on for a 4.0 (or a 2.5) that I can steal the pattern and build a few? I should have snapped a few pics but was not thinking :dunno:

what motor in the 2000 XJ that the trans is off

Just from the pic I would buy it for that price...looks like it has buckets.....beat the overheating problem (that would be easy) and you would have a nice ride with loads of potential :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

If you want to start slow and source a block first...why don't you read on the stroker page a bit and see what block(s) the guys over there suggest to start with....and find one of those....my suggestion would be a block in the same casting as a 2000 xj....i choose this for the reasons stated on the site.... :dunno: . :MJ 1: .

To be accurate....I believe it is Ugly green paint ....For the original poster to be accurate the main purchase for a Stroker would be a crank.....In theory if you added the correct crank to your existing motor....it would be a stroker....

I can only speak from experience...never popped a HPD30....but I have 2 LPD30 that are now worth 8 cents a pound at the shredder.. :thumbsup:

Just to make it simple I look at the front of the housing as well as the rear (when the question is 35 or 8.25) the 8.25 will have the Chrysler star cast in it (usually drivers side near the pinion). I would guess as above it is an XJ 35

First idea that pops into my head is don't guess...if you are going to use the axle would you not change the fluid? Take the cover off...the correct ratio will be stamped into the ring gear.....no guessing cold hard facts.... . :MJ 1: .

Another easy way is to just pull the coil wire and turn it over normal....oil pump will spin faster and pump oil through the whole motor but no chance of it sparking. 2 other in the plug hole lube additives...sea foam and diesel fuel conditioner...