Oizarod115

create a myase account and you can check online nov written test grades should be out dec 4-19 iirc.

You don't have to unbolt anything. Just crawl under and eyeball it. Try a test: Keep your foot on the brake, put it in reverse, and touch the gas, forcing the engine to twist under torque. Listen for the clunk. If you hear it, repeat the procedure but have an assistant do the goosing the gas while you lie on the ground and watch where the exhaust pipe runs over the cross member. What can happen is that the resilient cushions in the tranny mount compress due to age, allowing the space between the exhaust pipe and the cross member to be reduced. When the engine twists, that can result in contact and a clunk or rattle. if it is this you may also be able to find a shiny mark where the exhaust is rubbing on the member. :dunno:

I just got my results back from ASE, I am now officially certified in brakes and steering and suspension, passed both tests (only 2 i took) in november! which means a raise also. :cheers: :cheers: so... if you need your death wobbles, alignment, klunking and other miscellaneous suspension, steering and brake issues worked out... ASK EAGLE :bowdown: cause IDFK. :waving: :cheers: :cheers: woot woot

Stick my head under the MJ while the wife pulls it out of the garage...sound like a death wish!! :cheers: get in-FRONT of it and make sure she hits R not D plus if you tell her you cancelled the life ins. she will be less likely to squish you on purpose :idea:

inspect carefully for scoring where the RMS rides on the crankshaft... any wear in the metal will cause it to not seal no matter what you do. also, try taking cardboard and drawing the oil pan and punching the bolts for it into the cardboard to keep up with where they go... there's alot of em. :idea:

ahhh laziness the second go-round... thats what happened after we camo-d my brothers first XJ... ended up black second time around :yes: looking good! we'd clean up the pub a little more but we're kinda runnin out of places for the spare parts what with the C4C goin on, so excuse the mess :waving:

a turbo-back exhaust would be replacing all the piping from the exhaust end of the turbo til it exits the car... this would require a turbo first. ;) a cat-back exhaust would be replacing all the piping from the factory catalytic converter til it exits the car...

my honest opinion is that it looks better now by FAR than it did before. sorry :chillin: nice lookin jeep

need to know where yuo're checking the temperature at with the thermometer, and maybe try checking another motor to see if the gun seems accurate. its likely if both sources say the same thing then it is actually cold, try a thermostat from the dealer. and make sure you're getting either a 185 or a 195 degree thermostat. something in that range is good for a 4.0L

get a helper to listen for you since it does it at slow speeds.... narrow down the location of the noise for us

made money money money to spend on the ole girl :cheers:

for a fair race please make sure his a/c is switched to the off position because that little squirrel can only run so many things at once ya know... :clapping: those cars are amazingly slow... however jeeps only sound/feel fast... i say close race

if it was a snow plow truck it was through dealing at 23K.... thats hard salty work.

you could always do a 4lo kit to take your 231 to 4:1 ratio... or if you use the doubler run a higher gear in the transmission to pick ratios.

There are also springs that are just pulling the cables towards a hole in the frame-rail. no big deal, should be able to find some in the help section of the autoparts store or possibly a tractor supply or something.

where in the atlanta area? i work at a shop in snellville and my boss is as good as you could find when it comes to mechanics. 40-45 psi on the fuel pressure is more than enough, it's actually supposed to be 39 with no vacuum to the regulator and 31 at idle with vacuum to the regulator... but that shouldn't cause major problems.

yeah.... we know... :fool: :rotfl2:

hey don, wondering about your headlights, how much of an improvement have they made from stock? Would you suggest them and how much do they cost?

:roll: alabamans... :roll: :cheers: just playin buddy.

argh come on hornbrod! everybody knows renix jeeps don't have check engine lights :clapping: seriously, your jeep shouldn't have one. its there in the cluster to the left but it will never light up. it does not store codes or even make codes, you can hook up a scanner to it and get information about sensors and such but it has no code software

the EASY way is with the HESCO bolt on kit for it. but thats 100$ or so. i made some spacers for it and slotted the screw out so that the throttle shaft actually turns the sensor much like a flat-head screwdriver would. it's half-@$$ for now because the truck had to be back on the road to pass emissions, and it seems to work well so i haven't messed with it yet. i am using an OBD1 HO fuel rail because the renix one will not bolt up to the later intakes, with the obd1 fuel regulator/lines. i used compression fittings down on the frame-rail to tap my renix lines into the HO lines. the fuel pressure regulator on the OBD1 HOs operates at exactly the same pressures (iirc its 31 with vacuum 39 without vacuum) and I'm running 5.0L mustang injectors from five-o motorsports.

215k miles on mine, whines worse than all my ex's combined in all forward gears. has taken a BEATING. also been ran out of fluid by the P.O. (and me for a little while) bleeds like hell from the halves. doesn't like to downshift to 2nd doesn't like to downshift to 4th. all in all its annoying but it works, and has worked for 40k miles that I (a teenager in his first truck/4x4/manual BEAT ON for years) so just be nice to it and ride

sorry i don't know how to make the chart look right other wise?

i never posted up the emissions report info on my truck... PASS 25/15mph test Reading Allowed Result HC ppm 9 189 pass CO % 0.03 2.36 pass NOx ppm 61 1233 pass RPM 2280 2500 max CO+CO2 % 15.3 6.0 min 50/15mph test Reading Allowed Result HC ppm 6 194 pass CO % 0.05 1.74 pass NOx ppm 264 1340 pass RPM 1466 2500 max CO+CO2 % 15.4 6.0 min catylitic converter: present pass fuel cap test: pass i'd call that flying colors boys! :banana:

the major difference to watch out for will be when working with 87-90 transfercases because they will all be 21 spline input gears, and 91+ 4cyl stuff will also be 21 spline. from 91-01 4.0s got 23 spline input tcases. so if you use a later t-case you will need the transmission to go with it, or you can change the input gear on the case with some surgery.