64 Cheyenne

And the 45 WD please

I was going to go the total HO swap on my 87, would have got me, tilt, AC, cruise... I realise your Renix harness is bad, but how bad? Not repairable? So I am still putting the HO in the 87, but with the HO motor to Renix harness TPS conversion. (Cruisers) Gonna run a stand alone regulator for the HO alternator (110 amp). don't get the AC I wanted, but oh well, I can suffer three weeks out of the year here in Montana. Much easier, quicker than doing total HO conversion. Word of caution, 96 was a bastard year, switchin over early dash to 97 up interior....beginning change over year. IMHO, if I was to do a HO dash swap, it would only be with a 97 up dash...why swap for ho-hum when you can have modern and cool? Good luck on the swap, take lots of pictures (don't forget to post some here) you'll do fine.

Replace the light switch

Jim, werent you the one who did it with 2Xs crosswise through the windows, come-a-long wrapped arount T/TC?

Silverstars, ecode, IPF, whatever.... These things shouldn't even be part of a consideration or on the table for discussion until after the harness has been upgraded. Period. In my opinion why?...because I did the harness upgrade, afterwards would have sent the replacement bulbs back... the harness upgrade worked so well, my headlights were so bright, even with mismatched, who knows how old sealed beams. The harness upgrade makes makes the most overall improvement, bar none...best money I ever spent to see down the road.

I worry about paying $4.99 for the same bulb that the other guy paid $5.99 and got 8 of. Thing is, most of them are made in China, can you show me the $4.99 bulb that is made in the USA? This one http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-1-smd-led-wedge-base/204/ ?

Would be interesting to know if there was a bearing available instead of a bushing....

From your description of the way it shifts, IMHO, I'd have to say that your not getting enough clutch release...

I'm not sure, but I think the length of the shoulder is different between the mount locations eg: F/side, retractor mount and static end.

Beg to differ...look at the fan, radiator, PS pump, after all a 2.5 is more or less a 4.0 missing 2 cylinders. Also look at the harmonic damper on the right side of engine, 2.5.... FWIW I think the Tstst housing on a 2.5 is the same as 4.0, somebody correct me if wrong, but pretty sure. Search - RockAuto: 1989 JEEP CHEROKEE 2.5L 150cid L4 : Cooling System : Bypass Hose Cost about $7 bucks or your local parts store should have it as it fits multiple vehicles.

And the front... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=32365

Here's one for the back: http://comancheclub.com/topic/18397-removal-and-replacement-of-my-slider-back-window/ Did one for the front also, its around here some where...

Don't lose sleep over it...it won't be the last one you find. Seems Jeep put harnesses in that would accommodate multiple options, therefore there are many plugs on our Jeeps that don't go to anything.

I agree, well said Bornindesert

Tough call... So far I've regeared 4 of my axles from info i learned off of the web. (no formal gear set up training, self taught) Would I suggest you try and break this down to replace the pinion bearings....no. That is unless you have a shop, tools and know how. Breaking down the axle would require a gear "set up" not sayin you can't do it, just be prepared. Myself, I would try a couple of things first. 1. Replace the seal, install new outer pinion bearing or if the current one is still intact possibly reuse, might just be pinion nut came loose. If that fixes the slop and leak, cool, don't fix it anymore. If that don't fix it, then your next options are to tear into it or my better suggestion... if you are lacking time, space, know how...replace the axle. Many 3.55 and 3.07 geared axles out there can be had for reasonable price. How much do you want to learn, curse or spend, take your pick.

In my experience, short of catastrophic failure, howling - oil every where etc. Power steering leaks usually come from one of two parts of the system, the pressure or the return line. Not sure, but I think the return can be fixed with some appropriate sized hose and some new clamps. My guess is your pressure line is bad, probably about $30 bucks for a replacement. Best advice, pull the air box, go from there... Kind of hard to tell without pics or being there...

Wow, never thought about this. What about if YOUR dash cam proved YOU at fault?

Really...! That's what he did to get it out? Really?

42* f today, T shirt weather, gets any warmer and I'm gonna get the Sporty out again....

FWIW, don't try installing the tranny with the CPS in place, quite possibly you'll be buying another one if you do (CPS).

Good point. Not to say that a minimal amount never ever gets spilt on the ground on accident either. Wouldn't think the amount in the heater core is a significant amount... As far as the environment goes, are car washes really a good idea, the amount of crud they wash off of cars eg: "underbody wash" at the car wash, how much fluids and oils are washed off from that. I think many more people do an "underbody wash" than do a heater core purge. I guess if I lived someplace like Californistan, I'd do this at home in a bucket with my pressure washer to be the most ecologically correct, and keep everybody happy.

I guess I wouldn't say not to buy from them, but if you do and you have issues with your part... On another note, I had to make a return, for me, their customer service was great.

This is not really a DIY cause I didn't take any pics or have any intention of doing a write up. But boy did it sure work good. A little info first: 88 MJ Chief, 4.0 Renix. Converted to "open" cooling system with radiator cap in line, in top radiator hose. Still using Renix radiator. Removed heater water valve, ran straight hoses from engine to firewall. (Common mod doing away with the water valve. Problem was I wasn't getting very much heat out of the heater, and I heard of pulling both heater lines at the car wash and back flowing the core with pressure. Today I tried it, at first I was worried about too much pressure. but I remembered from hydroblasting that there was little volume to high pressure. When you insert the carwash wand into the heater hose, you are going from little hose to big hose = major pressure drop. I pushed the wand into the return side, as far as it would go, kissed the trigger a few times, then I full on rocked it. Actually had large water volume with low pressure. You should have seen the amount of crud that came out, impressive. Kept the water running full on till it ran clear. I was worried that I would cause the heater core to leak, well it didn't; if it did, I would just be replacing one that was plugged any way, so no loss if it did. After hooking the hoses back up, refilling and a purge....HEATED VERY HOT AIR. I recommend this if you have low heat, I would also be weary that this could cause your heater core to leak, if it was very old and "ready to go out". Time needed for this at the car wash, ten minutes, way worth the time and effort.

I bought from them before, kind of like HF stuff, some good, some bad. Just remember...Chinese Replacement Auto Parts = C R A P

Grill guard, back bumper, end gate, black interior....