dasbulliwagen

There is a lot of varied highly skilled and technical experince on this site. One of the things Iove about this place.

One week of that being in there isnt going to hurt anything. The sulfer damage is cumulative, over time... it wold take a bunch of years to cause any real damage. Change it and see what happens before you tear this thing apart.

Did you put new oil in the trans while doing the clutch? I once changed the oil in my Hyundai Accents manual trans with full synth 75W145 and noticed problems like you are describing due to the heavier oil, especially in colder weather.... though when I say cold, it was winter in Michigan. It would shift hard and sometimes grind like you are describing.... until it got warm, then it was fine. Are you thinking of rebuilding it yourself? Its not a job for a novice. You may be better off outsourcing something that in depth. Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing.

I can't say Ferrari to myself in my head without doing the accent from the little Fiat in the "Cars" movies.

Please don't take this the wrong way, I'm not trying to sound mean. Just realistic. Sorry to say, but our trucks arent really worth enough to have the need to keep them 100% stock. There isnt going to be any collector out there wanting to dish out big bucks for a bone stock MJ. That and most if not all the mods listed are reversable. So if you keep all the original stuff, you can put it back if the need ever arises. I'm just saying, you can leave your options open! And have a more enjoyable ride to boot! I guess Ive never been one of the type to want to keep something bone stock. It was like that for when I was heavy into air cooled VW's. I rode mostly with resto guys in the Michigan Vintage VW Club. It was all good though. They did their thing, and I did mine, all together for a common goal of showing off our cars. I do respect that you want to keep it all original though. Good luck, and enjoy it!

When I converted my truck to AC, the donor HVAC box out of my 86 was full of stuff like that. Needless to say it got cleaned real good and doused in lots of Lysol.

Dual Certified- Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram, and Mazda dealer tech.

Craigslist deletes postings after 30 days or so. If it hasnt been relisted you probably won't find it. That too is assuming jimoshel didnt buy it already!

I agree about using oils rated SL or earlier for the zinc content. Our engines were designed to be run with more zinc additive than what oils today have. And the Mobil 1 High milage oils are no longer all SL rated. Some are now SM or SN, so I stopped using it and will be searching soon for something else to run. Some people reccomend the diesel oils, and some reccomend Motorcycle oils, so I guess Ill be looking into them. Hope this helps for when you get her cleaned out.

To find an axle you may try www.car-part.com this will search all junkyards that are in the system and can be set to search by distance, price or whatever.

Classic car pricing guide strikes again!!!

Welcome.... If you have to replace the steering box, why not convert to power steering..... best upgrade I ever did. My truck was the same as yours... 2wd, 4 cyl, manual steering, no AC, radio delete, rear bumper delete, bench seat, rubber floor, and bought from the original owner.... didnt even have a cig lighter (not that I need it). There are many things you can do to upgrade here and there and still stay true to the truck. Ive added said power steering, power windows, power locks, power mirrors, AC, lighter, clock, 4wd, and added other upgrades like an XJ country sway bar, JK shocks, Limited wheels, electric cooling fan, "cold" air intake, and Flowmaster 50 series muffler with gutted and sleeved cat converter. It still looks like a stock truck, only its better now. Let us know what you end up doing, and we would love to see some pics. Thanks.

Find someone lifting a JK Wrangler, and get their shocks either for free or real cheap. To install the front ones youll need to press the bar pin from the bottom of your old shck and install it into the JK shock, then it will bolt into the MJ. For the rear, youll need to press out the lower metal sleeve in the new shock, and then it will bolt onto the MJ. They ride real nice, and for me the price was right... free.

It won't fit. Its totally different back there.

It says V-6 2.8 on the grille. I'm not sure what a 2.8 starter looks like, but I'm sure someone here can confirm.

The 86 XJ waggy I got for parts didnt come with a key. I took some channel locks and just turned the ignition with them... broke all the tumblers and was able to turn it to unlock the column in order to steer it on and off the trailer. I assume that this would start it as well if it was running.

Nice truck. Looks like you have a good start. The thing on the rear axle is the rear brake proportioning valve, that adds braking power to the rear when there is more weight back there, and your is installed incorrectly, thus making you have almost no rear braking power. The rod needs to be straight up and down, and the lever needs to be about parralell to the ground going the other way. There are write ups on this site to remove this thing if you want to, or you could just unhook the rod and hook it back up correctly. Looks like you have the coveted rear dana 44 axle too. Nice score! And I assume youre in North Carolina.... where are you?

Many of you may have already heard about Chryslers problems with early build 3.6 engines in the new Jeeps, minivans and cars. Ive recently had the displeasure to try to fix one of these engines. If you don't know about the problems, it involves the improper macining of the cylinder head valve guides causing valves to burn well witin 36000 miles causing a misfire, usually on the 2,4,6 cyl head. In order to change the head you need to pull the front cover, in order to pull the front cover, you need to drop the oil pan, in order to drop the oil pan, you need to remove both axle half shafts, front diff, right side strut, and steering rack assy. And on top of all that, the 3-Bond Mopar adhesive RTV has to be heated up a lot before you can get it to let go and take the covers and pans off without destroying them. And I'm not even going to start on all the hidden fasteners. I'm not sure this posting can really convey the frustration I'm having doing this job. Bad thing too is I have another one sitting right next to it waiting on parts. Warranty time for all this only pays 12.1 hours..... needless to say, my butt hurts.

There are plenty of things you can do to a HP 30 to beef it up. As was said, stronger axles and U joints, you can also sleeve it internally for extra strength, and as you know, trussing always helps. Combine this with WJ knuckles and brakes and steering, a WJ or late style dual diapragm booster, and an 8.8 with welded tubes and disc brakes, and wheel spacers, I would think youd be all set for what you plan on doing. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

Lately, whenever Ive seen one on here thats went bad, its the spiders that have grenaded and took out the rest of the internals. And if you get rid of the spiders and install a locker, then you break axles, or if the axle doesnt break, the housing bends. I think C-clips were only in later model 35's, but yeah, they werent any good either. For what it would take to beef up a 35, you could buy and install something else just as good or better.

And here's another question.... are all XJ MJ 21 spline 231s the same?

I too was wondering if I should look for a 231 to replace the 207 behind the AX 5 I am going to swap into my truck.... eventually. This is good info. I've swapped the axles in already just waiting for my current clutch to die.

XJ Wagoneer- grille assy, power antenna, power windows, power locks, power mirrors, clock, cig lighter, radio XJ country- sway bar, wheels, front skid plate, transfer case skid, chromed front and rear bumpers JK Wrangler- front and rear shocks WJ Grand Cherokee- electric fan assy Mazda 3- cold air intake assy. (modified) Dodge Journey- Power steering resevior Generic shelf brackets modified to support P/S resevior, and cold air intake

If I were you, and keeping the 2.8, you should aalso grab the driveshafts from the donor, theres no telling if the auto and the manual shafts are the same length. If its off by just an inch, neither of your existing shafts will work. And you said engine swap now? what are you thinking of going to?

^^^ or control arm drop brackets and adjustable control arms. The drop brackets will keep your on road ride better if youre not offroading all the time, and the adjustable arms will get your pinion angle and caster where you need them after lifting..... and make sure to get an alignment when youre done.... then post us some pics of the finished product! Good luck.