dasbulliwagen

I used to have this problem when I let my wife drive my air cooled VW Beetle. Seemed every time she drove it, something broke. My wife has only driven the MJ a few times, but so far so good.

I think I have a flare tool set, was just wondering before if the newer XJ MC had the same fittings. Maybe I should reconsider a used WJ unit with the flex lines. Ill need to do a rear prop valve elimination at the same time just because. Should I get a different real prop valve or just run it full power to the rear? I know the XJ units were problematic,

Ive read most of the threads through the years about dual diaphragm boosters, but I can't remember if it was ever covered about the brake lines hooking up to the new master cylinder. I'm wanting to do this with all new parts if I can. Looking through rockauto, it looks like its going to be much cheaper going with a 96 XJ style setup rather than the WJ style setup. I think i remember something about with the WJ ones that the threads on the existing lines in the truck are different than what the MC is threaded. Is this also true for the XJ one? Are the trucks existing lines even able to be moved enough to screw into the MC if the threads are the same? My booster is starting to go bad, so I'm hoping to do this fairly soon, though I do have a bit of time if I need to. Any help with these questions is greatly appreciated. Thanks

A band adjustment would help alot. I did it to the slightly larger version of this trans I had in my old Grand Wagoneer, the A999. Yes the procedure is a little confusing but it isnt hard to do and makes a big difference, do a search on youtube for a video of the procedure. That trans is as I said, similar to the A999 and the TF727. Below is some links to info and history. Hope this helps. https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.allpar.com/mopar/torqueflite.html&sa=U&ei=yd4RVOT-LvT57Abc3YHoBA&ved=0CAUQFjAA&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNEQ7cJ6H31CnT75my-vaWt66KbXKg https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/torqueflite-tom-hand.html&sa=U&ei=yd4RVOT-LvT57Abc3YHoBA&ved=0CAYQFjAB&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNHbYp8lU9xltNOOvs5XrnHbu4lOew https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.allpar.com/mopar/four-speed-automatics.html&sa=U&ei=yd4RVOT-LvT57Abc3YHoBA&ved=0CAkQFjAE&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNHmO6B_VJYg4Hoqm5t0LxbQbZXpJg

I think the 3.5 is the latest version of the GM 60 degree V6 bellhousing engines. For your needs though the Camaro Firebird 3.1 and 3.4 is a much better option, as they are bolt in and can use the acessories and stuff from the 2.8 to make for a fairly simple swap. I don't have personal experience with the 2.8 beyond throwing away the one the spun a bearing that came with my 86 Parts truck. But there are only a limited number of places an oil leak can come from, front and rear main seals, valve cover gaskets, distributor drive, intake gaskets, timing cover, oil pressure sender. Its coming up on 30 years old, so its probably due for all those gaskets anyways. There are a few aftermarket parts available for this motor. Swapping out the original carb with a Holley weber 2bbl should be a tremendous improvement. There used to be intakes and headers available too, not sure if they are still made though. You probably have The AX5 trans and NP207 transfer case and 4:10 axles which are fine with the 2.8 or 2.5 combo as long as they arent abused. Take a pic of your rear diff for us. There is a chance you might have a coveted AMC 20 rear axle, which would be a huge plus for you and any future improvements to power and such. Welcome to the club and feel free to ask anything.

A 4BT is cool but super expensive to build. Just keep that in mind. Everything I've ever read about the says a minimum of $10,000 to build one properly.

I've always loved the look of the pro comp extreme all terrains. I've yet to have a chance to buy a set though. For an A/T they look pretty aggressive. And like was said you'll be suffering in the power dept the bigger you go with tires. Especially with the 2.5 or 2.8.

I added AC to my 87 2.5 as well. I found the wiring for the dealer installed AC in the downloadable 1988 FSM. The compressor power wire was already there and I think the low pressure connector. I found the dealer installed AC connector and added what I didn't have using the 88 diagrams. Worked great.

Don't have the part number bit mine was 2 1/4" center inlet and 2 1/4" offset outlet.

Speaking of creepy... Can I ask a question? Alexia, are you a boy or a girl? I'm really not sure. Your avatar has me wondering. Not sure if its ever been covered before. Sorry.

My truck didn't originally have a rear bumper and had that same light.

I made it in! I'm in the first link!

Yes another street meet would be cool. I will be at the swap meet in Silver city on October 4th. I need to make sure to install my Comanche club sticker before then too. I'll have a buncl of TJ and JK parts to sell.

Ive seen it done elsewhere, but couldnt tell you right now how or if it was a bolt in job.

The miata we had doing it would not roll forward unless the clutch pedal was pushed in. The shifter in nuetral position had the car in reverse, and in 1st and 2nd if you let the clutch out it would stall the car. It wouldnt go into any other positions. It was definitely an internal trans problem on that one. We didnt dissassemble it to find out what went, but something definitely came apart in there.

The AMC 2.5 uses the GM 60 degree v6 bell housing like the Gm 2.8 3.1 3.4 3.8 and maybe a few others. The iron duke had its own pattern.

I had this same issue in a Miata recently. The trans secondary shaft was seized. The main shaft was OK and the output was OK. The reverse gear didn't use the secondary so that's the only way power would transfer through. Start looking for a new trans.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/44129-jeep-show-and-swap-meet-siler-city-nc-october-4th-2014/ I posted in the events forum about a show on October 4th, 2014. For those of you in the area looks like a good show.

http://www.nc4x4.com/forum/index.php?threads/oct-4-2014-third-annual-southern-jeep-swap-meet-siler-city-nc.155066/ For those of you in NC and nearby, and not on www.nc4x4.com there is a Jeep show and swap on October 4th, 2014. No charge show, but they are accepting donations benefitting NC Vietnam Vets. Also no charge for swap spots. The show is at East Coast Willys Restoration in Siler City. Siler city is in Central NC about an hour due west of Raleigh and two hours east of Charlotte.

Air cooled VW's huh? Brother had a Karmann Ghia, so did my dad, plus several bugs. Always wanted a schwimmwagen, but that'll never happen. I'll take a 21 split window bus, though. Hell, if it was pristine I'd get rid of my mj and yamaha to get it! I've had several bugs a Ghia coupe a Ghia conv and a slammed built to hilt 59 Microbus panel. I never should have sold that 59. Back then I also had a Grand Wagoneer. Those were good times!

The 2.5 has the same radiator if that makes things any easier.

What are you looking to do with this, and again, why are you so averse to the AX5?

And don't re use head gaskets. One time use only.

I used to be this way except with air cooled VW's. My extra jeeps now get put in the woods at a buddy's property.

With the GM v6 other options are available bit they won't just be bolt in and go. If you need to get it going just find another 2wd ax5. If you're wanting to go 4wd now then find a 4wd donor and get it all together like was said. You'll still have driveshaft issues unless you find another 86 mj donor or a later 2.5 long bed. So do your homework before buying stuff peicemeal. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.