dasbulliwagen

The rear flip will get you between 5-6 inches of lift. A couple of pucks in the front will not be enough to even you out. Youyll need that much in the front too, and that will entail an adjustable track bar, new springs in front, adjustable control arms or a control arm drop, front end alignment, longer shocks front and rear, longer brake lines at each end, longer rear driveshaft or a different slip yoke.... its a lot more work to get everything right at that height than you may want to do right now. You just need to know all this before you dig into that rear axle. Do your research, ask all the questions of us you want to and we will help you through this!

Well, maybe there is, and maybe there isn't, but it would hardly be fair to the girl to make a judgment call like this without first having actively explored each and every possible use of said breasteses, and made that determination based on actual case study, and cold hard facts. I didnt say Id push her out of bed, I'm just saying more than a handfull is too much like work!

I hate to say it, but there really is such a thing as TOO big.

I just bought a Flomaster 50. It should come fed ex tommorow, Ill be gutting the cat at the same time. Glad to hear its mostly quiet with a little growl. Exactly what I'm looking for. Ill let you guys know how it sounds if I get it installed this week.

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don't take this the wrong way please, but don't you have enough to do without starting a new forum.... I mean fire school, canukistani army, restoring rusted jeeps, 4 wheelin, snow runnin???? You are one busy mofo! I wish you all the luck in the world, just don't get in over your head! Youll be burned out at 20!

The rad fan itself is different than other jeeps. Ive done a ton of these replacements as there was a recall on the fan motors in some models. The fan swaps out in about 1 minute if you know what youre doing, and 2 minutes if you don't. If your resistor went bad it could be that the fan motor is getting bad and pulling too much amperage, but yeah, drop the glovebox and the resistor should be right there. Oh yeah, if you do need to pull the fan, on the very right side toward the back there is a little push in spring clip built as part of the unit, push it in and twist the fan and it pops right out. good luck!

I havent done it, but they say that the firewall mod to swap in a 4.0 can go one of two ways. It caould be a late production 86 in which case thay already made the mods to the firewall to fit the 4.0 in for 87, or it could be early production in which case you shouyld just need to do a little finessing with a BFH. Ive heard maybe a half inch or so... no big deal! I also have an 86 X as a parts vehicle that will get built later on, so who knows, I may need to do it at some point!

If you ever seen how automotive body panels are produced, you would know that they can't just be banged out. most body panels are made in multi ton presses in dyes that stamp out one part or body line in a panel at a time. If jeep kept the original dyes for these panels, that would be the best way to reproduce the panels. But with the demand so low, if they even still have the dyes, theres no way they can make the cost low enough on them to justify producing more of them.

Kinda looks like a Mazda or a Chevy Luv to me...not really sure though.

Ive yet to experience this in my Mj, but It happened to me more times than I can count when I was into air colled VW's, beetles, busses.... people would stop me in about every parking lot I went into to tell me about the one they used to have.... it was nice. I can see this happening in jeeps though too..... The designs of the old VW's and the old Jeeps are just timeless.... and now that I think of it... they both came out of WW2!

Ordered a new cat convertor gasket to allow me to "modify" my cat convertor for better flow. ;) I also ordered a flowmaster 50 series muffler to replace mine with the azz end falling out of it. I hope the flowmaster 50 isnt too loud. Supposed to be quieter than the 40 series, and hopefully quieter than a turbo muffler. Ill add to my build thread when the time comes for install.

The front Dana 30 is a direct replacement for the MJ, But it is probably low pinion. Wheels will bolt up if they are ones you like.

What did you do with the hoses that went into/out of the stock air box (other than the main intake hose)? Did you plug them, route them to a catch bottle or to ground, or? That's the main problem that's stopping me from doing the exact same thing... I have the big hose that went to the airbox running back toward the firwall with another hose section running it down under the truck, I need to do soething different with it, but havent had the time.

I had a cold air kit I removed from a mazda 3 a while back. It sat around the house for a couple years before I thought about trying it on the MJ. I had to cut the tube down quite a bit to make it fit, but the original filter, I think an AIR-RAID or soemthing like that, and the original rubber boot to connect it fit in there perfectly. I made a mounting bracket for the tube support too. Works real nice and the filter is washable... no oil type. My engine is the 2.5.

I don't think it will hurt, it will just shift hard, especially in sconsin dis time of year, eh.

I myself would think that this would be more of a problem with electric fans as they are mounted VERY close to the rad body. The solution Ive heard is to mout pusher fans outside the radiator, that way when it get to water, the fan pulls away from the rad instead of being sucked in.

I used to run 75w140 in my hyundai accent, but it makes it shift really hard when cold. I think I have 75w90 in it now, but really only because the parts store was out of the 140 when I went to buy fluid.

The Grand Waggy I had was THE most comfortable vehicle Ive ever owned. It was a 258 str8 6 with 727 and select trac trans case. It went through the snow like a tank too. And being a Michigan vehicle, it was very rusty underneath. If it werent for gas milage considerations I would have another one right now. $2500 seems like a good price though assuming everything works, like the back window glass. The corporate 20 rear end in them didnt have the same problems as the ones in the CJ's, and it should have a Dana 44 front end. Other than oil leaks from the 6, and a crappy original carb that I replaced with a Weber, I had no problems, even with driving 5 hours to visit my girlfriend in Ohio. I say get it, drive it, LOVE IT!

O2 sensor, fuel pressure, fuel filter, would all be things to look at. Mine would cut out at times while driving too, but never at idle, turned out to be the O2 sensor, cleared it right up, but change the fuel filter too. I had a Ford F250 once that would cut out like that, it turned out to be a gas tank full of rust that would clog up the inlet screen, and pack the filter full of crud...not as likely here, but still a possibility.

Pete! How about a snail mail address for those of us who don't have paypal, nor the need to set one up. Maybe make a new stickie with all the donation information! We love ya Pete and all you do for us! Keep up the good work!

It most likey has the 904, but I worry about an AW4 holding up to an 800HP engine. You may want to look at building a 727 type as found behind the 258 in the Grand wagoneers. I know there are a ton more performance parts for that trans and that they can be built for higher HP.

Take a picture of the transmission for us to see which one you have... may make a difference for you in the future. It could have either the BA10/5 or the AX15. The AX15 being the better trans. I think early 89 had the BA, and later 89 had the AX.

Bias ply tires? REALLY??? Is this going to be a daily driver? If so you'd really be better off with some radials.

GALAGA!!!!