Pete M

hmmm, looks like there's either a slight delay in the postings, or the software is failing to let us know that someone has posted since we started typing. :dunno: weird.

$175 apparently. :D

all Explorers will have an 8.8 under them. You're looking for 95+ so you get the disk brakes. check for ratio before buying, don't settle for anything less than a 4.10, and don't pay any more for a v8 model since they are identical inside (only the brackets outside change and you're going to cut them off anyway). oh, and make sure you get the calipers from some explorer (not necessarily the one with the 4.10s) since the core charge on them is huge. as for Jeeps, and the 8.25 has a pronounced flat section across the bottom of the differential.

your junkyards are just depressing to us rustbelt folks. :( what's that truck doing in there anyway?! :mad: that's just wrong... according to the numbers in the driveshaft thread: assuming identical bed sizes and drivetrains, the Dana 35 driveshaft will be one inch longer than a Dana 44 driveshaft (because the 44's snout is one inch longer than the 35's). good if you're adding a small lift, not so good if you're staying stock.

bump so I can find it

bump so I can find it

any smiles that don't move over WILL be re-installed. :banana:

holy giant photo batman!

been dying to see a close-up image of that truck! pure awesomeness :drool: I soooo want to drive that around town and tell people it's a jet powered race truck... :rotf:

The mechanical and electric speedos have the same port in the t-case. :thumbsup: but the 2wd cable might not be long enough to reach the t-case. might need a 4wd one. try to nab the little speedo gear out of the donor jeep, as you might need to swap the little stub shaft it rides on.

I look forward to not sorting through 50 spammers a day to find the new CC members. :ack: and I look forward to replacing complaints in my inbox about glitches and a lack of features with complaints of "why can't I find this?" and "how's that work again?" :yes: It's possible that it's not better in every single aspect, but it will be better.

do this: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415 and then just ignore the 4x4 light. :D also, here's the acronym chart: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12815 :thumbsup:

perhaps there's some variation in what appear to be the same tires? my dad has enjoyed 2 sets of goodyear forteras now under the Libby with good mileage out of them and great rain/snow traction. yet on tirerack it got horrible reviews. with a bit of research I found that the complaints came from people with either 17, 18 (Explorers, grand cherokees, etc) or tiny 14 inch rims. Dad has 16s. :dunno:

do NOT show that to my sis. :no: I keep having to reassure her that the Jeep will be stuck in low speed when I introduce it to my nephew in 2 months. (but you know that's coming next year... :brows: )

I'd keep driving it. :yes:

bent a rear bar out of conduit and screwed it up to the main bar. But I don't much like the look and am already thinking on starting fresh and going all-custom with conduit. :brows: New steering wheel from a different rig. 1" larger diameter and much better construction than the flimsy stock wheel. Didn't go right on though. I had to invent a method of attachment but it was worth it. :thumbsup: even comes with an electronic horn. :yes: and since he's only 2, I added this one just for the heck of it:

I actually prefer newcomers to ask their questions. :thumbsup:

automatic or standard trans? what size tires does it have now? Oil in the airbox is very common and usually does not mean the engine is bad. :thumbsup: The typical cause is just a plugged vent line (the small line at the back of the valve cover).

interesting... well, try checking where the exhaust passes over the transmission crossmember. it's fairly common for that mount to collapse and let the pipe hit and rattle. and welcome to the club! :wavey:

ok, I'm done for now. :D