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Pete M

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Everything posted by Pete M

  1. I would add WJ lcas to that mix. :thumbsup: Stock MJ arms were never meant to control gigantic tires.
  2. not really. it makes all your front end power run through a single tiny ujoint (divers side) which is not really a good thing. a selectable locker offers you locked or open, but both front tires will always be splitting the power between them.
  3. if it's anything like the pulley on my 97 chrysler minivan, the pulley itself isn't expected to ever come back off. The new pulley pressed on to my new pump with the supplied attachment bolt.
  4. what is it you mean by "lost"? did you have more than 53 posts total? or you've lost your bookmarks? or what?
  5. AALs will make your leaf pack stiffer and RC shocks aren't known for being the best. that's like half a kit. I would add new U-bolts, longer brake lines, longer swaybar links, longer lower control arms, and personally I'd go with a longer track bar too. as you go higher, the geometry of the suspension changes. the front tires get pulled backwards in the wheelwell, the sway bar can rub on the coils, the front axle gets pulled to the driver side, the brake lines get pulled tight, etc. the higher you go, the worse these things get and the more parts are needed in the kit to fix them. The cheap kits out there don't address all these areas and most guys find themselves having to fix the problems after installation. Now, there's a certain amount of "your experience may differ" when it comes to lifting old trucks. Some guys don't mind the drawbacks, others have found ways around them (adding shims behind the control arms for example). It's all up to you and what you want to try. But if you want to stay cheap and still get a quality ride, I recommend avoiding "inch-itis" if you can because each inch you go higher practically doubles the cost of doing the lift correctly. :thumbsup:
  6. I love it when a plan comes together. :D now where are those pictures?
  7. :rotf: wrangler would have had a bit better breakover angle :dunno:
  8. only the first couple years didn't have headrests. anything after that would work for a donor. :thumbsup:
  9. MJ shackles are already longer than XJ shackles so verify before purchase how long they are. that's why I mentioned the Chevy ones. they are about as long as you can go with a shackle. and no, shackles aren't spacers. google "leaf spring lift blocks front" and you'll see what I mean by leaf spring spacers. :thumbsup: you won't need anything more for a budget boost other than an alignment. 2" if the limit before needing other parts.
  10. coil spacers are perfectly safe. :thumbsup: It's the leaf spring spacers that have drawbacks (front ones especially).
  11. it's not fun installing windows in the snow. :D
  12. 1.75 pucks up front, chevy drop shackles in the rear. about as easy/cheap as a budget lift gets. :D try to stick with Jeep rims. aftermarket rims can get 31s into the fenders when turning. 31s on Jeep rims can contact the lower control arms, but that's easily remedied with junkyard WJ LCAs.
  13. wouldn't surprise me if it tipped 5k.
  14. I'd probably sell it and buy an XJ axle.
  15. haha! I want one for my chrysler! :rotf:
  16. motor mounts, trans mount, shock and track bar bushings look good, but the sway bar link bushings are shot and/or missing. :eek: Don't know if that's the cause of the noise yet, but it's certainly something that needs to be fixed. :yes:
  17. what is it you're looking to learn?
  18. I wouldn't get too crazy until Alexia chimes in. maybe there's an easy fix. :dunno:
  19. specs on the truck: 03 250 superduty/5.4/auto/4wd/250k miles/A-C/bone stock extended cab/rust free my buddy's truck emits an odd vibration at random intervals and for random lengths of time while driving down the road. it kinda reminds me of when something is rubbing against the tire tread (like brushing a fender when turning). It always feels the exact same in loudness and frequency no matter if he's doing 25 or 75. Sometimes it lasts for a few seconds, other times it goes on much longer. The vibration is felt the strongest in the floor, and he cannot feel it at all in the steering wheel. sounds like it's coming from the front suspension or low in the engine bay, but nothing appears out of place or damaged. The bearings/suspension/steering all seem in great shape. It makes the noise whether the truck is in 2wd, 2wd with the hubs locked, or 4wd with the hubs unlocked. It's a real head scratcher. I've been searching the web but have come up empty (found plenty of people with noises and vibration issues on their Supers, but nothing quite like this). spring pads and exhaust have been suggested but they all look good. thoughts? ideas of what to check next?
  20. weird. if you reload them do they then work?
  21. what size tires?
  22. could be a difference in rubber compound used too. :dunno: you might have a better chance of finding someone who's used them by starting a new thread. :thumbsup:
  23. also fabbed my own. I tied mine through the frame rails to keep them independent of my rockers.
  24. neither. the MJ has a longer wheelbase and no pinch seam under the bed.
  25. we've had a couple threads covering bumpers. though it might be hard to find them with such a common word as bumper. :dunno:
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