Pete M

gotta remember to crank up the stereo for that test. :rock on:

love the safety cone by the speed bumps :rotf: seems a part is, um... loose there. :D

battery and alternator testing is free at most auto parts stores. :thumbsup: if both test ok, I would just drive without banging the sound system super loud for a few days and see what happens. also, clean all your grounds and battery cable connections. be sure to upgrade those if you upgrade the alternator.

been there, done that :D it's just soooo much easier than dealing with the rusty frame!

:banana:

I would keep looking for a better donor (although that 93 4banger would have been a great axle donor for it's 4.10 gears if it was 4wd). eventually you'll find a 94+ with a bad engine. :D or just hit the junkyards. pullapart.com is awesome if you're by one of their locations. car-part.com might be of help too. it sorts purely by part number and those change over the years while a lot of the parts are still usable, so be sure to search for a variety of years. or search for the big ticket items (even if you don't intend to buy them) and then call the yards to see if they still have the Jeep around to get the little things. unless I'm mistaken, the pedal assembly can work through 95, maybe even all the way to 01. might have to fiddle with the brake selector switch to make it work. flywheel has to come from am 87-90 (to get the right CPS notches so the truck will run). clutch can come from any year.

because the MJ was too cool for those ugly yellow lights. :D

my go-to for ford truck questions was usually ford-trucks.com but I see their 60-era subforum is pretty thin.

I didn't say "easy", but it is all bolt-in if you get the parts (clutch stuff, correct year flywheel, pedals, etc). :thumbsup: keep reading, keep learning. lots of great info in the DIY forum. in long vs shortbed, it's only a 12" difference (6" in front and 6" behind the rear tires). shortbeds will turn a bit tighter, longbeds can carry a bit more, shorts have a bit less overhang, blah, blah, blah. bottom line is that I would not turn down a long or a short that had a good running engine and a solid body. . :MJ 1: .

the 4wd conversion is completely bolt-in. :thumbsup: rust is the biggest challenge. -a rust-free truck is the most important thing to me. -second is engine choice (a 4.0 will bolt in place of a 2.5 but you need a complete donor XJ and it is quite a bit of work) and engine health (these are invincible engines if properly cared for), -third is transmission choice (the easiest to change of the 3). -oh, and try to get a truck with AC if that's important to you. you can swap it in with junkyard parts, but it's a pain in the butt. 35s are too big if you want a somewhat normal truck. remember that these are little trucks with little wheel wells. fitting 33s or bigger usually requires hacking at the fenders or sky-high lifts. 31s or 32s on a 4.5" lift can make a very capable truck if you add in a locker. also, keep in mind that a 4.0/manual truck will come with 3.07s from the factory and they suck with even little tires, let alone giant ones. be sure to factor gearing changes into your budget. :thumbsup:

these trucks are like legos, you can easily build anything you want from them with the 20 years of cherokees found in the junkyards. :thumbsup: avoid 86s since they won't have the 4.0. the 4wd conversion is simple and then you can swap in the better late-model XJ parts. 87-92 MJs could be long or short bed, 4.0 or 2.5, 2wd or 4wd. what is your end goal for the truck? trail monster? daily driver? both? what size tire are you shooting for?

whoever originally ordered my dakota did that! It's an R/T that ended up with giant dumbo towing mirrors. :D

excellent! glad to hear it was a reasonable easy fix. :thumbsup:

only pic I had. was taken with film no less! :D

and THAT is why it's important to know your ride and look for changes in its, um, character. :yes: could easily have happened 1 mile down the road. :eek:

got these 12 ton stands from harbor freight when they went on sale. I think they top out at 30". I used them to support under the front frame while designing my front suspension (about 5"). no tires were used at this point, just rims. tires came later after the suspension was complete and I could jack up the truck from the axles. then I moved on to the rear.

that is the fuel pump ballast resistor. yes it should get warm (it's a resistor), but I admit I don't know exactly how hot. new ones are cheap enough though. :thumbsup:

any change with the line pulled? have you tried wiggling all the vacuum lines while it's running? tested the TPS yet? cleaned the throttle body yet?

because some individuals can't help but be themselves, no matter what the situation.

it didn't leave the factory like that. the Street Comanches were assembled by an outside company. but the other plaques I've seen were different than that. this is what the others say:

happy birthday! :banana:

I ask because power only goes to the pump for a brief moment after turning the key to "run", and then is on with the key turned to "start". any other time there will not be power to the pump.

5.5 MJs 1.5 XJs not sure how to tally that up though... 7? 6 and 2 halves?

how were you checking power at the pump?

all I know about the high-beams is they are controlled by a long bar that runs from the indicator switch, down the column to the real switch, and that the rod can easily not be in proper alignment.