Pete M

excellent! glad to hear it was a reasonable easy fix. :thumbsup:

only pic I had. was taken with film no less! :D

and THAT is why it's important to know your ride and look for changes in its, um, character. :yes: could easily have happened 1 mile down the road. :eek:

got these 12 ton stands from harbor freight when they went on sale. I think they top out at 30". I used them to support under the front frame while designing my front suspension (about 5"). no tires were used at this point, just rims. tires came later after the suspension was complete and I could jack up the truck from the axles. then I moved on to the rear.

that is the fuel pump ballast resistor. yes it should get warm (it's a resistor), but I admit I don't know exactly how hot. new ones are cheap enough though. :thumbsup:

any change with the line pulled? have you tried wiggling all the vacuum lines while it's running? tested the TPS yet? cleaned the throttle body yet?

because some individuals can't help but be themselves, no matter what the situation.

it didn't leave the factory like that. the Street Comanches were assembled by an outside company. but the other plaques I've seen were different than that. this is what the others say:

happy birthday! :banana:

I ask because power only goes to the pump for a brief moment after turning the key to "run", and then is on with the key turned to "start". any other time there will not be power to the pump.

5.5 MJs 1.5 XJs not sure how to tally that up though... 7? 6 and 2 halves?

how were you checking power at the pump?

all I know about the high-beams is they are controlled by a long bar that runs from the indicator switch, down the column to the real switch, and that the rod can easily not be in proper alignment.

check ebay for brackets

good point! I change my plan and would reuse the current mains and do it the way that Eagle said. unless the current mains are cracked or otherwise way more rotted than the new set.

yup, everything we're discussing is with using used leaves, and to the OP, that's why we can't give you a straight answer. you have to try ans see what your particular chucks of steel gives ya. :thumbsup:

that assumes each leaf is identical. done it thrice. as long as it's the main leaf you're adding, the change isn't much of anything. the lower leafs are stiffer and have most of the lift power. having said all that, someone here will undoubtedly have numbers for each spring. dunno if my stuff will hold up, but it's been my experience with used leafpacks. :thumbsup:

thread cleaned of the drama.

I've made it a habit of adding in a main leaf (with the eyes cut off) as an AAL under the current main. doesn't really add in any appreciable lift or payload, just helps support the main leaf better (they are known for getting a reverse arch in them over time and use). based on guessing (cause I can't see what you've got) I would probably use the 2wd main on top, then 4wd main (sans eyes) under it, then mix and match the rest to find the right balance. be patient, it's going to take some trial and error to get it right. :thumbsup:

have him run a compression test and a leak-down test. or better yet, do it yourself! plenty of auto parts stores will loan tools for free (refundable deposit style)

nice :D

there's a thread in the DIY section that'll answer your question :thumbsup:

YAY!!!! yeah well, as much as I'm for saving all MJs, Jim just hauled some rust free MJs to the junkyard because no one would buy them. :( I guess I'm more for saving rust free ones than rusted out ones.

also very common. not necessarily a deal killer. clean out or replace the PCV valve and run a compression test to see what shape the cylinders are in. for Jeep engines, the total mileage numbers are less meaningful than the quality of care they got.

Nice! Just add three more stripes, start with red on top and extend the blue section to the seventh stripe. :thumbsup: yeah, except it turned out to be a lot more work than I thought it'd be so it is what it is. :D