Pete M

my pop would never go for that level of modification (could definitely hamper warranty stuff), but that hasn't stopped me from researching it :D already determined the largest tire he can do stock and then the largest tire with a bit of spacer lift.

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: oh, you were serious. well, I fired it up the other day to move it under it's new canopy (pics of that coming later). that counts for something, right? :( I'm too poor and too tired to even think about all the work my trucks require, so I focus on others' needs. but on the positive side, my new doctor has some new ideas for at least treating my symptoms if we can't fix the root cause. this new drug is only a bandaid, but it does wonders for making the foggy headaches subside. :banana: next up is jumping through some more insurance hoops so we can try the more expensive stuff.

been a long time coming (life kept delaying being able to pull the trigger), but my folks are now the proud owners of a '16 Durango R/T awd w/18k miles. Perfect shape except for a couple stitches in one headrest and a couple broken mounting tabs from when someone clipped a parking block with the front lower valance. Unlike most I've been looking at, this one didn't spend its winter in the rust belt and is clean as a whistle. :D I'm soooo happy I don't have to refresh a dozen search engines every morning or talk to car salesmen any more. :banana: now on to mods! first up is a mopar hitch install and rubber floor mats. further down the line are some skidplates (GC ones fit) and front tow hooks.

welcome to the club! :thumbsup:

wait-wait-wait... so you're not going to chrome the skidplate and reinstall?! :dunno: I'm so confused...

should be some helpful info in here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48710-diy-projects-writeups-master-search-index/ mid 90s 3.1/3.4 is still the easiest swap. a direct swap for you block (with the exception of the flywheel and fuel pump) and better in every way (better steel, better oiling passages, etc). plus the chevy fuel injection system is a stand alone unit and I'm told is an easy adaption. there's a writeup to that in the above link too.

the aftermarket rims will push the tires out and 32s will then clip the fenders when turning. 31s on stock rims can fit a bone stock truck so they will work great for a 2-3 inch lift. maybe buy some spacers for the rear so they match the fronts visually. :thumbsup: (spacers on the front will do the same thing as aftermarket rims so don't put them there) See Horbrod's truck for inspiration :D

every gen of car looks similar to each other. :( soon as a design proves to be popular, the rest follow suit. obviously there are exceptions, but boxy 80s cars look alike, big boat 70s cars look alike, etc. very few young people can really tell a 58 ford from a 58 chevy from a 58 plymouth. they all look alike.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Jeep-Original-Service-Shop-Manual-4-Volume-Set-Wrangler-Cherokee-Comanche-/371988144344?hash=item569c38a0d8:g:OiYAAOSwvjdZSXeu&vxp=mtr

woo hoo! :banana:

digital versions exist out there in the ether, but I really prefer the old paperback filled with page markers and greasy fingerprints.

I spotted it on ebay... :fine print:

from in this thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/13633-clean-up-your-tail-lights/

read your owners manual for proper checking of the trans fluid. the method can change slightly from car to car. then make sure you use the proper fluid to make it exactly right. some autos do not tolorate low (or too high) fluid levels. good luck to you. hopefully it's just a bit low. :thumbsup:

the classic debate. :D do I update the looks or keep them old-school. the older these trucks get, the more I lean towards staying original. I wouldn't hesitate snatching up a decent box as a spare through. :yes: it's not like they are making more of them.

Comanche edition :D

there's no single answer for that one. far as I can tell every iteration has been tried and both works and didn't work for different people (stock with drums, stock with disks, XJ with drums, XJ with disks, etc) I figure the best bet for success is the aftermarket adjustable prop for the rear line. :yes:

good to hear it wasn't a bad part. :D replacing the major components always means more bleeding than normal. it's irritating but necessary. :thumbsup:

keep bleeding it.

I have the same problem. I like you thought it was the ballast resistor. I bypassed it with a jumper and still same problem. I have plenty of fuel pressure AFTER cranking the engine so I know the pump is running while cranking. However I do not hear the pump prime when i first turn on the key. What else do I need to check in the "run" circuit for the fuel pump? Relay? I have refreshed the fuel pump ground and all of crusiers ground refreshing. I installed new fuel filter and fuel pump as well as throwig on a new CPS. I also replaced injectors and fuel pressure regulator about a year ago. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! just the other day I had a relay for the high speed fan in my liberty click to engage and then die immediately. did this repeatedly and a new relay fixed it. it's worth it to at least swap the relays around and see.

works fine for me. weird. :(

x2! wow!

car-part.com might be of help with junkyard searches.

mid 90s dakota split folding bench. best upgrade I've seen yet if you want a bench.

no way to know based on that info. could be either. make sure you can recognize the diff-erence before you poke your head underneath. :D