Pete M

I figured as much. that level of blue shown in the photos is downright mesmerizing...

that is most definitely... blue.

is the axle perfectly centered left to right? it appears that the drivers side disconnect could give a bit to the pass side by scooting the axle over towards the drivers side maybe an inch. I think I might have found the issue with the contact. the JKS were not likely designed for that particular drop bracket. the factory ones are not straight down that outer edge and would likely clear the disconnects easily.

getting closer. it would appear that something is shorted out and pulling way too many amps out of the transformer. tomorrow's job is to start isolating things to see what it is. can't properly diagnose the original problem until everything is working again. my money is on corrosion in the lockout box slowly heating up the connection until it cooked itself and the 50volts getting through killed the transformer (and more). so far I'm not out much money, so I'm still willing to plug along with repairs (as opposed to junking it all for a newer system) and see where it takes me.

that smashed MJ at the LKQ shows it had AC. what related parts do you need? (keeping in mind that they might be... smashed)

found that the 24vac transformer was bad. replaced it and still nothing. on to the next link in the chain...

he states "my xj has two inch lift". the photo shows a lot of aftermarket parts. enough aftermarket stuff that I'm wondering if there's a typo.

what is it you mean by "spun the housing"? it sounds bad.

are we sure this is a 2" lift? that looks like a drop bracket for the track bar.

what method do the pros use? I'd wager there's a youtube vid or 2 about that.

jack up the frontend to where you want it and then measure the change.

well, I rewired everything and fixed the problem, but haven't yet fixed the furnace. still won't turn on. I'm done for today though. tomorrow I'll start diagnosing the blower motor to see if getting 50v fried it.

ok, so after some digging in the insulation I've found that I've got plenty of wire and I don't have to rerun the entire thing back to the breakers, just lop off the burnt stuff (plus a foot) and move the box to a different (and infinitely better) location. just need to buy new longer wire to run back into the heat pump assembly. plus a new lockout assembly of course. my big fear is that the 50volts I was detecting at the blower motor (which lead me back to the lockout box) has hurt something else in the system. we shall see. one step at a time...

I'm going out on a limb to say this might be the reason why the heat pump isn't working. this is the lockout box by the unit in the attic. looks like I've got a bit of rewiring in my future...

lol. you and me both.

all you need is a single post to be able to send messages, so you're there. at 10 total posts the classifieds will open up to you. sorry for the inconvenience but we've had problems with spammers.

wow! you might be the first person I've ever seen have a failure at that point.

ahhhh, I gotta tap on "settings area"! didn't realize that was a tap-able item. it's been a long week...

wait, what? where'd it go?

is there a way to add a signature on the mobile version? I'm just not seeing it.

factory for a 2wd is 6.75" +- 0.5" so it looks like you are spot on. I normally use a laptop and so I grabbed the phone and looked around on the mobile version and couldn't find anything about the signature. weird. maybe someone else knows the trick.