Pete M

when you finish, be sure to do a writeup for the DIY forum so future jeepers will have something to follow.

the addiction is real, and they know it.

sorry, your title was confusing to me (and I know what you're asking) so I elaborated on it a bit for ya.

get that dam to someone that can make copies! they are way less awesome than that pile, but I just got my 2 nos 90 XJs chrome grilles today. they were mislabeled as ZJ.

the link in my signature has some free ways to bypass it so your 4wd is reliable. there are less than 19,000 MJs left on the roads.

definitely could be worse. though the words ring hollow when staring at all the red cancer. whelp, better grab the wirewheel and flapdisks and get to work!

the good news is they only work one way so you should be able to do trial and error style with the flares.

I guess you should probably put that help request in the classifieds?

master is in the engine bay, slave is in/on the bellhousing.

this is the place that warrants ALL the pictures. no such thing as too many! you missed one thing on your plan, start taking it to car shows! old american iron that nice deserves to be shown off now and again. oh, and for sure disable the CAD.

I think the only thing you can hurt out back is if you absentmindedly get a tooth of the jack on the diff cover edge. and even then it'll probably be ok. where I lift depends a lot on what I'm doing, but usually I'm lifting by a control arm mount or the rear leaf pad / shock mount. get a hydraulic floor jack. safest way to lift a rig. my 3 ton jack has a nice wide bowl at the top that easily cradles the entire lower control arm mount of rear diff or whatever. I have a smaller 2 ton in each car for emergency use. any port in a storm, but I generally steer clear of jacks that have tiny contact points (bottle jacks).

isn't the return spring inside the master? I'm assuming it's no longer under warranty?

if you ever have to cut a bolt to length, put a nut on it first, then cut, then round off the cut edge, then remove nut. it'll help fix any mangling of the threads.

I've never put a single dent inside the bed of any truck I've owned. all had plastic drop-in liners.

hose pliers for the win!

@Ben any pics of what you're starting with?

perfection

don't wait for some day in the future that'll have infinite time, do just a little bit every day. (and keep notes where you left off so it's easy to step right back in the next time)

doesn't appear to have a spring

the first is a roll pin used to hold the center pin in place.

floorboards are available from Key Parts (check ebay) all carpets are made by ACC, but sold by many others so pick whomever has the best price. check amazon or ebay or rockauto seats can be redone by your local automotive upholstery place. check google maps. do you have the ceiling piece and it just needs to be recovered? or is it missing/trashed?

a failed part sucks, but I always appreciate when I can learn of failures asap. it's the industrial engineer in me.

@eaglescout526 does it show which trim level it was? my book is 87-90 so I don't have those.

are you asking if the letters are chrome or silver? if so, they are reflective enough that I'd call them chrome. but they aren't a smooth surface if that matters. more of an orange peel texture. it's super hard to film it.

cruiser54 has a digital copy of the electrical manual on his site which you can get to via the link in my signature. Damonk, be sure to put some basic info about your truck into your signature.