Pete M

:???:

The flared wrenches work fine for tightening, but I've never had much luck getting rusted lines to budge. :(

Dunno. I don't have a single working one on any of my MJs. Vehicle inspections must suck. :D

When I'm replacing a hardline, I usually cut the bad line right at the nut and then use a socket. If your new truck is anything line my MJs, be prepared to replace more. :(

Those are some pretty skinny rods there. :eek:

Using the shock mount as a perch is not recommended. Sandwiching the shock mount between the leafs and axle works just fine as long as the head of the bolt (the one holding the leaf pack together) still protrudes into the leaf perch. Otherwise the leaf pack could move on you, and that would be bad. :( Reusing U-bolts is not recommended. They stretch when tightened and can break if reused.

Tell eBay!!!!! I once bought a "NIB" item that was no where near New In Box. eBay has a system for handling things like this. I got the majority of my money back. Then I like to think that charges were filed and someone went to jail, but eBay isn't about to tell me what they did to that asshat so it's left to my imagination. :D

Doing a spring over using your existing springs will net 5-6 inches over your current height. But since many of us have sagging springs, that doesn't necessarily mean you need a 6" lift for the front. The top plate is custom made. I needed to fab one since I was adapting the Jeep to the Ford axles in a non-conventional way and neither the Jeep nor the Ford gave me the right width. And here are the cuts I made to fit the shock mount in there and clear the axle tube. You won't need to cut the nice round edge, just another straight cut. I am actually using the shock mount as a half-spring perch. (it's complicated and not recommended)

Please tell me you aren't sinking money into a Dana35...

Mine leaves the lower shock mount exactly where it was when stock. Still not ideal mind you, as I lose about an inch of up travel and an inch of down travel using stock shocks. But I was able to use my perfectly good gas charged shocks. :D

I was the DD and still had a blast bar hopping all day. :D One of the bars near me had 50c beers starting at 7am and they went up by a dime each hour. :cheers:

All you need is a place to park them. :D I own 4 trucks and only one of them is on my family's property.

Probably not going to get that much from a rattle-can truck. Being rust free is nice and probably the biggest selling point. Low mileage tends not to mean as much as it would if it was an old Corvette. My newest MJ has 40k on the front axle, 50 on the rear 44 and I think 70 on the t-case. The rest is all 210k. So having a low mileage Dana 35 isn't really a hugely desirable thing. :D But like everything else for sale, it's worth whatever the buyer and seller can agree on. Best way is to officially put it up for sale in the classifieds (here, local papers, ebay, etc.) and see what happens. If no one wants to pay 4grand, then drop it down a bit until you get some bites.

Haha. Nice of you to stop by CC, or should I start calling you the pron master. :D

Oooo, I hope that's not an apology for asking questions. Cause I'd hate to have to refer you to our forum rules. :D

I usually buy 55watt lights and then upgrade the bulbs (which you're not supposed to do :D )

I'm not saying it can't be done, only that you need to accommodate the possible problems it could cause. search car-part.com for a 1935 wrangler (or some year that the wrangler didn't exist) and when the next page comes up, click on the second selection and put the search range to 95-95. That should narrow the search to only the 95 wranglers (car-part.com doesn't seem to distinguish between years where the axle will still bolt it). Rumor has it that some 94s may also have the bigger joints, but I don't know for sure. Then search for the various gear ratios till you find one near you that has a cheap one. Buy it, gut the shafts, get rid of the rest and buy yourself some new 760 joints and the proper seals (if they are different). :D Then weld up the spiders, sell off the locker, and figure out a way to finagle the CAD collar. Done! Just be careful when you decide to 3 wheel it, as you'll still be putting a whole lot of power to just one shaft.

I'm betting they don't exist. It's not exactly a wise idea to run one, so I doubt that someone would be making them. The Dana 44 minispool probably only exists because there are rear Dana44s.

I had a minispool up front (dana 44) and loved the reliable traction, but hated the lack of turning ability. Keep in mind that if you use the CAD for unlocking and drive in 3wd, you are putting twice as much power to the one side with its little 260 joint, and turning to boot which makes the joint weaker than straight forward travel. Doesn't seem like that would last very long. Unless you're planning on upgrading to the 95 wrangler shafts too.

My antenna cost like $7. Good ol' steel whip. :D

Lower rpms does NOT necessarily equate to lower gas consumption, so you may have simply put the engine into a better power range. :D

With my first MJ I had to reach in with my finger to try to grab those little bars one at a time. What a pain.

I'd leave the 4wd one alone and use it as a driver while you collect the parts to build up the 2wd as a 4wd. Then you have 2 MJs, one nice one and one beater. :D That's sorta what I'm doing. The 88 is too much of an offroader to use as a daily driver anymore, so I'm building up the 90. One beater, one driver. :D Oh wait, technically they are both rusted-out beaters. And technically I own 3 beaters, but whatever. :roll: I'd still fix up the 4wd to drive and then build up the 2wd in my spare time.:brows:

Sorta. There was a slight change in 91 that makes it a bit more difficult.

Try cleaning your cable connections at the battery. Looks like you'll need to grab an AX-15 and a matching t-case (spline count).