Pete M

I was the DD and still had a blast bar hopping all day. :D One of the bars near me had 50c beers starting at 7am and they went up by a dime each hour. :cheers:

All you need is a place to park them. :D I own 4 trucks and only one of them is on my family's property.

Probably not going to get that much from a rattle-can truck. Being rust free is nice and probably the biggest selling point. Low mileage tends not to mean as much as it would if it was an old Corvette. My newest MJ has 40k on the front axle, 50 on the rear 44 and I think 70 on the t-case. The rest is all 210k. So having a low mileage Dana 35 isn't really a hugely desirable thing. :D But like everything else for sale, it's worth whatever the buyer and seller can agree on. Best way is to officially put it up for sale in the classifieds (here, local papers, ebay, etc.) and see what happens. If no one wants to pay 4grand, then drop it down a bit until you get some bites.

Haha. Nice of you to stop by CC, or should I start calling you the pron master. :D

Oooo, I hope that's not an apology for asking questions. Cause I'd hate to have to refer you to our forum rules. :D

I usually buy 55watt lights and then upgrade the bulbs (which you're not supposed to do :D )

I'm not saying it can't be done, only that you need to accommodate the possible problems it could cause. search car-part.com for a 1935 wrangler (or some year that the wrangler didn't exist) and when the next page comes up, click on the second selection and put the search range to 95-95. That should narrow the search to only the 95 wranglers (car-part.com doesn't seem to distinguish between years where the axle will still bolt it). Rumor has it that some 94s may also have the bigger joints, but I don't know for sure. Then search for the various gear ratios till you find one near you that has a cheap one. Buy it, gut the shafts, get rid of the rest and buy yourself some new 760 joints and the proper seals (if they are different). :D Then weld up the spiders, sell off the locker, and figure out a way to finagle the CAD collar. Done! Just be careful when you decide to 3 wheel it, as you'll still be putting a whole lot of power to just one shaft.

I'm betting they don't exist. It's not exactly a wise idea to run one, so I doubt that someone would be making them. The Dana 44 minispool probably only exists because there are rear Dana44s.

I had a minispool up front (dana 44) and loved the reliable traction, but hated the lack of turning ability. Keep in mind that if you use the CAD for unlocking and drive in 3wd, you are putting twice as much power to the one side with its little 260 joint, and turning to boot which makes the joint weaker than straight forward travel. Doesn't seem like that would last very long. Unless you're planning on upgrading to the 95 wrangler shafts too.

My antenna cost like $7. Good ol' steel whip. :D

Lower rpms does NOT necessarily equate to lower gas consumption, so you may have simply put the engine into a better power range. :D

With my first MJ I had to reach in with my finger to try to grab those little bars one at a time. What a pain.

I'd leave the 4wd one alone and use it as a driver while you collect the parts to build up the 2wd as a 4wd. Then you have 2 MJs, one nice one and one beater. :D That's sorta what I'm doing. The 88 is too much of an offroader to use as a daily driver anymore, so I'm building up the 90. One beater, one driver. :D Oh wait, technically they are both rusted-out beaters. And technically I own 3 beaters, but whatever. :roll: I'd still fix up the 4wd to drive and then build up the 2wd in my spare time.:brows:

Sorta. There was a slight change in 91 that makes it a bit more difficult.

Try cleaning your cable connections at the battery. Looks like you'll need to grab an AX-15 and a matching t-case (spline count).

The rims are Jeep Canyons and they can be found in 15x7 and 15x8 varieties. They are my personal favorite factory Jeep rim. :D

I haven't "missed" them per se, I just haven't deleted them yet. When someone signs up, the profile is entered into the database automatically, but they cannot post until I approve them. Don't worry, they haven't gotten through. :D I hit the list either once a day, or as soon as I can after I notice someone who seems legit. Just don't click on their websites if they have one in the profile.

Tires only? Condition needed? Price range? Oh, and I found the WJ arms on ebay. I think they cost me a whole $25. But I seem to have been exceedingly lucky since they were the fist ones I saw and I didn't see any for a while after them.

My 88 has 8 slots so I think you're just off by the one year.

Oh hell yeah. :D

I'm a little confused, what is it that makes everyone think I need help? :hmm: Because a spammer figured out that guests can post in this particular forum? Or are y'all just itchin' to help out in some way? The biggest job I have these days is approving new members and as far as I can tell, only admin can do that, not mods. And even then, it only takes less than 5 minutes a day (and I enjoy it immensely. Zapping spammers is fun! :D ) The majority of my online time is spent answering questions, just like you. And I gotta say, I really appreciate everyone in that. There was a time back at the yahoo group that I was the one answering most of the questions, even if I didn't automatically know the answers. I spent a LOT of quality time with the shop manuals (that I purchased just for this) reading up on problems and educating myself so I could give cognitive responses. Now we have a few dozen regulars and chances are really good that one of them has first hand experience with any given problem and it's practically guaranteed that someone will respond, if with nothing else than sympathy. :D Nothing discourages a noob like thinking he's being ignored. So if you want to help out, keep doin' what you're doin', as you're doin' a great job! Keep up the good work! :cheers: As to needing more mods, there just isn't anything for them to do. Ask Eagle what he does on any given day that is mod-specific. We've simply got a great group of guys/gals and they don't require the same amount of babysitting that other sites need. :D Now, when we finally move on to making a website, then I'll need help, lots of it. Stay tuned...

My broken foot and then my broken ankle were both before I could drive so my stories will be a bit different. I stopped driving the 88 (back when it was 2wd) for like a day or 2 after I shook hands with the table saw. That was fun driving a 3 hour round trip with only my right hand. :roll: But the left was pinned and wrapped and strapped to my chest so I couldn't even steer with it for that first couple weeks. Then in '02 after my 6 month fight with mono left me so insanely tired all the time, I took myself off the road for a few months (unless it was an emergency). I simply couldn't pay attention to everything on the road and my reflexes were, let's say, substandard. :( I liken it to being up for 36 hours, but I was like that all the time, even after 8 hours of sleep.

Maybe I should expand my signature to keep everything straight. The red 88 has the 33" trXus (and a couple 33" boggers for trail use :D ), the white 86 now has 31" blahs, and the dark gray 90 has 31" MTRs. Around the house I generally refer to them by color, which is why the 90 is a "dark gray" rather than simply black, the Dakota is black. In the sunshine it really is a shade of gray, I swear! :D (Although it's been in the garage for a long time and in that relative darkness I have a real difficult time convincing people of that.)

For each spammer that accidentally figures out that they can post in the "help" section, I ban their IP addy and then delete all their posts.

So, since the 86 doesn't move much of anywhere these days and it's wearing probably $400 in almost brand new tires/rims, I figured I'd swap my craptastic set of 31s (with the even crappier steelies) to it from the 90 and then the 90 will just run the 31" MTRs all the time. I can safely say that it is not advised to run 31s on the stock 15x6 steelies without also swapping in WJ lower control arms. That is, unless you're comfortable with either giving up a good chunk or your turning radius or letting the tires beat themselves silly on the control arms. Probably wouldn't be so bad with aluminum rims which would push the tire outboard by another half inch. Best bet is still to swap in the bent WJ arms.