Pete M

Probably not actually. It's incredibly light for such a long boat. We were pleasantly surprised when we picked it up. :D Not sure how durable it is though. It's got some wangs in the front end already, but the seller swears it doesn't leak. I've picked up regular aluminum canoes before and they were always an awkward struggle with 2 people. If I had to, I bet I could pick this one up by myself (still awkward though).

I've flat-towed my MJ with various vehicles before and I buy junkyard tires that go on the MJ. It's a pain trying to carry all the 33' tires, but the trips destroy whatever tire I put on the front of the MJ and aren't much better to the rears. But flat-towing such a long vehicle also sucks. It's constantly fighting the tow vehicle and can be an eye-opening experience. Before my next trip anywhere, I'm going to find someone with a brake-assisted tow dolly to borrow.

I'm not sure I'm the envy of the neighbors though. :D

Essentially, your draglink pushes against your track bar. Without the trackbar, it just pushes your body to the side. If you keep turning the steering wheel eventually you might get enough resistance to move the tires a bit.

The inability to steer. :D

Just wanted to share. :D It's an aluminum 17 footer that I just couldn't pass up at 100 bucks (went in on it with my friend Mike so it technically only cost me $50)

:drool:

:rotfl2:

I've been using aluminum to hide the rust holes. But then my only goal is to simply cover the rust holes. If you want it to also look good... :roll:

33s are overrated. 31s will look great with 0 to 3" of lift and you won't have to regear or buy new axles. If you stick with stock rims, I suggest using WJ lower control arms. My stock height MJ:

You may simply have bubbles in the cooling system. A technique for bleeding the 4.0L is to get the rear of the truck higher than the front (facing down a driveway, put the rear up on stands, etc). Doesn't have to be much more than a few inches of difference, but the goal is to get the bubbles to gather at the rear of the engine block. Now loosen the temp sensor (located at the drivers side rear at the top of the head) just enough to let air escape. I'd advise doing all this with the engine off and cool (so when you fire it up and something goes wrong, you aren't showered with 260* coolant). Now have someone fire up the engine and wait until the air stops coming out. Tighten up the sensor and add more coolant. Eye protection is strongly advised. Full face shield is preferred.

I don't know all the details, but if I remember right you need a main shaft, tail housing, etc and then essentially do a complete rebuild.

I'm just saying that I got the loan. I had a good paying job at the time and needed a driver after the Peugeot died. If you need a driver and can comfortably afford the payments, then I don't see why not.

You'll need a 4wd AX-15. It is technically possible to convert, but it is generally not cost effective.

Learn something new every day. :D

Yup. And it sure is convenient that most 12.5" wide tires list a 8.5" wide rim as the narrowest they recommend. Who's ever heard of an 8.5" wide rim? And what makes them think that extra half-inch really matters. bastards.

That's pretty much how I got my Dakota R/T. :D Technically I "sold" my 86 (to my dad) to get some downpayment money. The only thing I regret is going with the extra year of loan time just to save a few bucks a month. Man that last year was a killer, still makin' payments when I could have been through. :(

These are the rules of thumb. As with most things Jeep, there are no guarantees. 2.5L + 4 speed manual = 3.55 2.5L + 4 speed manual = 4.10 2.5L + auto = 4.56 You still might have to crawl underneath and check the tag.

Bypass the new resistor by touching the wires together and see if that works. It could be a bad resistor.

No no no. You would have a 4.5" lift because you are using the 2wd leafs. But it'll be 5.5" taller than it is right now. Lifts out there should be made with the 4wd in mind. Plus, do NOT remove the overload leaf. The springwrap will be horrible.

An 8inch rim holds the beads on the tire waaaay better then a 10 inch when you air down. I've never heard of anyone having a sidewall issue with 12.5s on an 8" rim. :hmm: Sometimes you have to pay attention to the air pressure on the street to make sure you get even wear on the tire.

My guess is that site doesn't support it. :dunno:

It is hard to use someone else's numbers for rear lift due to variations in our old leafs. Just measure up 5.5 inches from where it is now.

:jump:

Different springs are only part of the lift. Don't forget about control arms, track bar, brake lines, etc. Also, doing an SOA using your 2wd leafs will net about an inch less than what a 4wd would, meaning the amount of lift from stock is the same, but 4wd will sit ~1 inch taller. So a 4wd doing an SOA will need 5-6 inches up front to match, you'd only need 4-5.