Pete M

:D But back to the topic at hand, I hate the poly bushings. I couldn't even get full stuff with mine.

I just noticed that near the upper right corner of the front page of the forums is a line called "view your posts". Does that give you what you're looking for?

We had a hacker go through and change all the titles and I screwed that one up when I changed 'em back. Makes me smile when I see it so I've been leaving it as-is. :D

Parts are so easily swapped in MJs that sometimes it's hard to tell.

Not necessarily "pointless", but you'd need to re-evaluate the purchase if you aren't prepared to spend the money on regearing. It all depends.

It's never to late to edit and shrink that enormous photo. :brows: I think his truck is big enough already. :D

Is the engine actually rotating when you turn the key? If just the starter is making noise, then it could be that either the battery is too weak, the connection to the battery cables needs to be cleaned up with a wire brush (both the outside of the terminals and the inside of the clamps), the cables are too old and need to be replaced, or the starter itself is failing.

You will need to adapt whatever non-MJ seat you find to the floor brackets in the MJ. Fortunately the MJ bucket and MJ bench seats both use the same floor brackets. :D

The heater blower is under the dash above the passenger's feet. But it is removed from the engine side of the firewall. If the motor ran solely on high and not the other speeds the likely culprit would be the resistor pack which is located above the passenger's feet and removed from the duct work with like a 7 or 8 millimeter socket. I guess there's a chance the pack died entirely but usually it's just the slow speed resistors that go kaput.

The closest Michigan has to any vehicular inspections is the cop as you drive by. :D

3+1 standard and 4+1 for Metric (or a standard with an add-a-leaf).

Can you give me a link to the site? I'd like to check out what they are running. I don't know if our software supports that.

The only "qualification" is that you PM me your address and tell me what you'd like. :D

There may be some pointers for you in here: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

As I understand it, I believe your TJ would have the 1330 U-joints. I could be wrong. I don't own an Explorer or a TJ to go measure. :dunno:

Rather than your rears being too soft, I'd phrase it as your fronts may be too stiff. I'm running 180s up front too but I have a wicked heavy front bumper. If you want to stiffen the rear a bit, I'd recommend adding a second main leaf from an MJ. Cut the eyes off and place it under your current main leaf. Helps to control spring-wrap too. :thumbsup:

The explorer would have a flange adapter that fits a 1330 U-joint. Your Jeep uses a 1310 U-joint, so no the Explorer one won't work. I think either an Areostar adapter or a Ranger adapter is the right size Make sure the Ford you're looking at has an 8.8 and not the smaller 7.5 (or whatever the number is). Ford used the 8.8 differential on all sorts of vehicles (but only the Explorer axle will fit your Jeep).

The swing arm on the valve should be approximately parallel with the ground.

We're all pullin' for ya!! --Pete

Has it gone out? or is it not keeping time anymore?

You're going to plop this in the classifieds then, yes?

Timing is set by the computer.

What is the spring rate of the front coils? Are you using poly or rubber C-bushings?

Factory axle in an 86 would be non-C-clip.